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I have Riffraff bellowed up pipes (and a Hydra kit) in my shopping cart. Wondering about any "related products" including those shown below. Until my shop and I get under the hood next Thu, I can't tell condition of manifolds, presence/absence of manifold gaskets (guessing none, based on what I've read on FTE), or other leaks or issues with the exhaust system. Not wanting a $500 sweater to unravel into a $2,000 parts bill, what should I seriously consider while the turbo and pedestal are off (which I understand are necessary to replace the up pipes) ? If after the up pipe job, we determine there are leaks between exhaust manifold(s) and head(s), is pulling those and putting steel gasket(s) in something that is it's own job (from below?) independent of Up pipe job? Thanks for any guidance. I called Riffraff this morning, but they are closed on Fridays.
Consider removal of that EBPV unless you need it for an exhaust brake, same with going through the TP38. If you are equipped with the stock downpipe, there is no better time than then to install a 3" unit. Going to a full 4" is pointless with stock injectors to me unless you plan to upgrade. Most of us use a Diamond Eye system, the stainless kit is about $300 and fits well.
Access is very easy to the rear of the heads, you could e-fuel it in a day if felt like it. I did and would again.
Thanks @Hit Man X . Just to clarify, if I am not on a performance jihad (e.g., upgraded injectors, turbo, etc.), and therefore happy with a 3" down pipe, will this 3" stainless 2-piece Diamond Eye downpipe work? Price shown is only $125.
The truck currently has a PacBrake vacuum-based exhaust brake (no longer made), which I believe is active on the input to the turbo, though electrically disconnected at the moment. No idea if I want to keep that or not. Thinking I will leave it until until I get it operational and see if downhill with full trailer makes me want an exhaust brake.
Regarding your comment "removal of that EBPV", is there something I need to order to replace that?
Regarding your comment "same with going through the TP38", not sure what you're recommending. I see Riffraff has a TP38 rebuild kit for $80. Is that what you're recommending? Or similar?
I read on another board, backed by a dyno, the stock 3.5" or whatever supported around 400rwhp. The change to a 4" picked up a fair amount of mid range torque as I recall, but to hit that power the guy had bigger injectors and all the full Banks kit. Our lame 180rwhp mills will just not see much, uncorked on stock tune they are not too bad really. I have the Diamond Eye kit as my OE system was all hacked up with a Flowmaster style muffler at 3" welded in and the OE tailpipe chopped off.
A few guys run the brake, I do not tow heavy enough and it is not hilly here in Texas. Not even our fabled 'Hill Country' but it sure is nice out there.
EBPV is that flapper on the turbine outlet of the turbocharger. Most of us junk it as it is just set to work on very cold starts in stock form, plus the base leaks oil with age.
Should have clarified, yes on freshening up the turbocharger. RR sells a nice billet wheel, mine is from SP turboost, KC also makes a modern turbine wheel and billet wheel. More things to look at and consider, Jarrett has that new turbine wheel and seems to enjoy it. It is on my 'to do' list, but I need Alcoas first! I am a fan of just knocking it all out at once while access is easy due to overlapping work.
If you are still on a stock stall torque converter, a low stall will make the truck tow much better and it will be faster. Difference on my 6.4 was amazing. I row gears in the 7.3 so does not apply to me.
PS - just saw you have a 996TT. My pal has an 996 N/A vert six speed (fresh long block) and a neighbor has a 997TT PDK hardtop.
Given the geographic location, just make sure this vehicle is now emissions exempt prior to doing any obvious turbo or intake mods.
Adding to the chorus on the EBPV. Decide on whether to see if the PacBrake is working, and if so consider deleting the EPBV as this is a common oil leak point. If the PacBrak was disconnected because it died, my vote is to overhaul the EPBV and mod it to work as an exhaust brake and ditch the PackBrake. Or, get another exhaust brake and delete the EPBV.
Toward avoiding getting sucked down the rabiit hole, get ready as this is likely unavoidable. Sorry. While having an initial set of parts in hand is good, no way to really tell the depth of need until digging into the truck. If anything, decide on what must get done now, and plan for what will need attention during a future maintenance event (preferably at your timing and not the truck's).
For the turbo, I suspect that you are a T4 kind of guy, so prior to doing any work on the existing turbo, take a look at some T4 threads and think about it a bit. But, don't lose sight of my first comment in this post
Thank you all a bunch. Just spoke with Clay at Riffraff, and think I have a plan. He said the same thing as Jay -- hard to know what you need without knowing history of the truck, and diving under the hood for a few hours. I think I am going to focus on up pipes, down pipe, Hydra, attempt at resurrecting the PacBrake, and a hundred bucks for the hoses, seals, gaskets that make sense While In There:
Turbo / pedestal O-rings
Fuel bowl reseal kit
Fuel pump hoses
Turbo intake and Y-boot kit
Staying away from turbo replacement or rebuild at the moment. Staying away from HPOP system for the moment. #1 goal is no more exhaust leaks, and #2 goal is finding and fixing boost leaks. #3 is have fun with tunes!
PS - just saw you have a 996TT. My pal has an 996 N/A vert six speed (fresh long block) and a neighbor has a 997TT PDK hardtop.
I had an early build '99 996 NA 6sp Coupe that I sold last summer. That was a fun car. Purchased the 996TT 6spd Coupe from original owner, with all service records, docs, keys, manual, etc. Another fun car. Net cost of sell/buy was about $27k, and a lot of fun wrenching both.
Originally Posted by JayTheCPA
I suspect that you are a T4 kind of guy, so prior to doing any work on the existing turbo, take a look at some T4 threads and think about it a bit. But, don't lose sight of my first comment in this post
Yeah, I don't want to touch anything that would get in the way of CA Smog Pass. Any CA '97 owners that can tell me what I'm up against?
Not sure what "T4 kind of guy" means, but I'll take it in stride and do the prescribed research.
I HIGHLY would consider replacing these while in there. Mine blew out on the road and the time wasted on the side of the road is never fun. They run from the front of the heads I think to the fuel filter bowl? I have e-fuel now so I do not recall exactly.
Curious on that Pac Brake, more pics please! You could reseal the plenums, not too hard of a job especially if the turbocharger is going to be off. There are also reinforcement rings available for us if that tickles your fancy.
The 996 vert turned into a real nice car uncorked. He did some basic mods while apart, it is dark green with tan leather. Also found a factory hard top and is having it painted to match, some meth heads had it near him. HA
Re PacBrake, see attached photos and documentation. PacBrake tech said they EOL'd this vacuum-based product ~6 years ago, in favor of the compressed air system. I suspect this system was installed by the selling dealer in 1997. Electrical connection from dash switch is disconnected near actuator on turbo intake.
With the fuel system's planned work, it starts to raise the question of whether to make the jump to e-fuel.
For the PacBrake, is it me, or does it look like it is using the EPBV rather than an independent unit? If the PacBrake is using the EPBV, might consider ditching the PacBrake, overhaul the EPBV, and do the mod which turns the EPBV into an exhaust brake. But then again, if the PacBrake gutted the EPBV's actuation mechanisms, then will need to figure out how to move forward.
In the photos, noticed a probe in the downpipe's upper section. If this is for pyro, will need to consciously adjust for this location while monitoring EGTs. Put another way, preferable location for the probe is upstream of the turbine where surrounding metal has less of an effect on the temperature reading. Putting the probe downstream of the turbine tends to show delayed temperature effects. Most people put one probe in an exhaust manifold.
Toward the mental adjustment of placing a pyro probe downstream of the turbine, a crude analogy is a tsunami wave. When laying into the throttle and watching the EGT start to rise, know that things are already hotter upstream of the turbine as the metals are currently in an absorption phase and the crest of the heat wave is still working its way through the plumbing. Reverse for letting off of the throttle as the probe will read temperatures from the metals shedding heat as part of the EGT.
With the fuel system's planned work, it starts to raise the question of whether to make the jump to e-fuel. Dang, Jay, there you go complicating my modest game plan!
For the PacBrake, is it me, or does it look like it is using the EPBV rather than an independent unit? Too new to this platform to understand what you're seeing/saying. If the PacBrake is using the EPBV, might consider ditching the PacBrake, overhaul the EPBV, and do the mod which turns the EPBV into an exhaust brake. I will research this. But then again, if the PacBrake gutted the EPBV's actuation mechanisms, then will need to figure out how to move forward. Yet another fork in the road...
In the photos, noticed a probe in the downpipe's upper section. If this is for pyro, will need to consciously adjust for this location while monitoring EGTs. Put another way, preferable location for the probe is upstream of the turbine where surrounding metal has less of an effect on the temperature reading. Putting the probe downstream of the turbine tends to show delayed temperature effects. Most people put one probe in an exhaust manifold. Short on time this moment, or I would circle the EGT probe, to confirm what you're referencing. Yes, there is an EGT gauge, and yes I've watched it climb and fall as the truck works. Fun stuff. Duly/dually noted on the impact of location on true indicative value.
Toward the mental adjustment of placing a pyro probe downstream of the turbine, a crude analogy is a tsunami wave. When laying into the throttle and watching the EGT start to rise, know that things are already hotter upstream of the turbine as the metals are currently in an absorption phase and the crest of the heat wave is still working its way through the plumbing. Reverse for letting off of the throttle as the probe will read temperatures from the metals shedding heat as part of the EGT. Great analogy. As reported on my towing test thread, EGT's generally seemed reasonable when hauling another crew cab on a heavy tilt trailer. And unloaded, EGTs read fairly cool, even when punching it on a climb. At least as I have come to understand EGT ranges recently on this forum.
An exhaust brake (*not* a Jake brake which is a completely different animal) works by way of a flap type valve (almost the size of the pipe's inside diameter) in the exhaust stream. When engaged, the flap turns perpendicular to the exhaust flow and causes a restriction in the same way as placing your thumb over the end of a garden hose (pressurizes upstream of the restriction). This pressurization makes it more difficult for the motor to expel exhaust during the exhaust stroke.
The EPBV works the same (and has the same physical design) as an exhaust brake, but its purpose is to warm the motor during a fast idle while cold and not act as an exhaust brake.
Bringing this full circle, the PacBrake looks like it is mounted on the EPBV as opposed to an independent unit. As far as I know, all is good with this design and just need to figure how to get it working again.
Regarding commentary in Kahn's thread about emissions tests, an exhaust brake should not have any bearing on the test as it does not effect emissions (unless for some odd reason it engages during the test). Same for the pyro probe.
Orange boot!!!!!!! Please put in for the Riff Raff one for the Turbo intake. I have the RR one and when I pulled my orange boot off it fell apart. That is a big must on these trucks. Similarly Riff Raff also sells the kit to move to the SD style and ditch the aluminum intake elbow. Wouldn't be a bad idea to take a look at the plenum boots as well. I have the full Riff Raff set and it's high quality for the price point.
Don't fall victim to the CCV mod stuff, it's dumb.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.
but it sure is nice out there.
