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I tried to contact you privately so it wasn't out on the board, but please do not use caps. It's considered yelling and it makes it difficult for users to read. Not a major issue, just wanted to let you know. And could you also turn your e-mail on so that FTE moderators could e-mail you if needed, it's in the "settings" link up top. Our site has specific measures against Spam mail so you don't have to worry about that from us. OK folks back to the original topic! :-)
OMG! IMO camps shouldn't be a issue no more than changing font from the default type some peeps are just to sensitive or dun get enough attention.
lol i prefer caps can read better
Can we please argue at another time?? I don't want to do anything wrong and put my membership on this website in jeopardy. If I was evicted from this website i would have nothing to do after school (i'm 14 and in the 9th grade)
I am going to buy a sending unit and see if that helps at all but i will just keep my fingers crossed until then. if thats not it then what should i do?
(Admin Note: email address removed. Automated spam "bots" crawl the internet looking for email addresses. Posting yours in a forum not only results in more spam for you, but the crawlers go crazy slurping up thousands of pages once they find an address. Just saving both of us headaches....)
This forum will be a great example for other users how your forum should NOT turn out (lol,lol)
the sender for the temp gauge should be one green wire that attaches near the distributor cap - it's a pain to access on the 5.0 as the intake gets in the way. I have problems on my gauge with it spiking to the high end after the truck is running and is turned off for about 2 minutes then started again - the temp will stay high. But my problem is in the gauge, not the sender (could be the wiring, though I doubt it).
I'm not sure if anyone cares about the original question...
Here's how to check the temp sending unit:
1. Remove the sensor from the vehicle.
2. Immerse the tip of the sensor in container of water.
3. Connect a digital ohmmeter to the two terminals of the sensor.
4. Using a calibrated thermometer, compare the resistance of the sensor to the temperature of the water. (Refer to the engine coolant sensor temperature vs. resistance illustration here under engine electrical -> sending units and sensors -> coolant temp sensor for your vehicle)
5. Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as necessary.
6. If the sensor does not meet specification, it needs to be replaced. If sensor checks out OK, then problem must be with gauge or wiring.
YOu should see about 5 volts on the wire going to the temp sending unit that screws into the block and it should be a pulsing dc signal. It is supplied by a voltage regulator that is attached to the back of the instrument cluster. if that pulsating 5 volt signal isn't there then the regultor is bad.
what do you mean by a pulsing voltage? should it be like 5 volts then 0 then 5...?? i was getting 3.7 at a steady pace. should i use a analog voltmeter or a digital one?? wich will be easier to see the pulsation??
(Sorry But I Couldn't Hold Back)
Last edited by Cool1996; Oct 31, 2003 at 09:02 PM.
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