Front end rebuild question
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Fresno
Front end rebuild question
I am in the process of replacing bushings and steering components in my 67 f100 2wd. I have never worked on i beams before but did manage to get it out and replaced bushing with polyurethane ones. I am also going to replaced coil springs since one side was broken. I replaced stock coils with moog cc808 but I am stuck on how everything goes back together. Do I jack up I beam untill the radius arm is a straight shot to the radius arm bushing hole, if I do this then the lower bolt for the coil spring is basically pointing straight up, would I then install the coil by using a compressor and then loosely tighten the bottom coil nut to keep it from moving untill full weight of the truck is on it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2016
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I've not done a '67. I've only pulled front i-beams from a '65 and a '95. In those trucks, no spring compressor is needed. The '65 had a travel limiter that prevented excessive travel which would allow the coil to fall out. The '95 had a bolt on clip that prevented the coil from falling out.
If I recall correctly, to install I inserted the bolts holding the pivot end of each ibeam and then jacked the hub end of each ibeam into place while holding the coil on its perch. Keep jacking until you can replace the travel limiter or coil retainer (which ever a '67 has). Seems like I had to pull kinda hard (or push) to start the radius arm into its bracket on the frame.
Take your time. Main thing is to have the front of truck very secure on solid wood blocks or stands.
Did you replace the pivot bushings and the radius arm bushings? Might as well do both. The pivot bushings take a little effort to cut out old ones and drive new ones back into place. Makes the handling nice though.
If I recall correctly, to install I inserted the bolts holding the pivot end of each ibeam and then jacked the hub end of each ibeam into place while holding the coil on its perch. Keep jacking until you can replace the travel limiter or coil retainer (which ever a '67 has). Seems like I had to pull kinda hard (or push) to start the radius arm into its bracket on the frame.
Take your time. Main thing is to have the front of truck very secure on solid wood blocks or stands.
Did you replace the pivot bushings and the radius arm bushings? Might as well do both. The pivot bushings take a little effort to cut out old ones and drive new ones back into place. Makes the handling nice though.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Fresno
yes I replaced radius and pivot bushings but I'm stuck on installing the new coil springs. if I don't lift the I-beam then the coil perch is almost at a 45 degree angle (forward) and it seems like the coil spring wont sit on the perch properly and because of the angle the washer with one side that is concave wont fit right either. this is why i think i need to use a compressor so that it allows it to sit in perch correctly and be able to get that washer on. I will post pictures later today.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Fresno
This is the angle of radius arm with everything in place and jacked up to put load on spring.
This is how it looks at the coil seat with load on it.
Notice angle of the spring bolt this is at full drop.
Angle of radius arm at full drop.
This is with full drop. Only a small section of the coil is seating on the seat.
is it normal for the coil to sit like this with no load? Would I load the suspension like in the second picture and add the lower coil nut with concave washer and lightly tighten it to not allow the coil to move?
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Fresno
So the main difference is that that are tighten the radius arm castle nut before everything else so this would more or less hold up the whole I beam instead of letting it hang like I did. I think that is my issue I am just letting it hang to far down that is what I was thinking. I have also read on other post to not tighten anything untill the weight of the truck is on the suspension. Maybe this doesn't apply to radius arm bushing?
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Cargo Master
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I'm not seeing anything to limit travel and prevent the coil from falling out. I can't see a front view of the ibeam but my '65 has a hook bolted on each ibeam that prevents "dangling" if you were to jack on the frame like you did. The radius arm bushing should not be expected to suspend the ibeams, brake assembly and a tire.
Probably want to raise the ibeam a little before tightening the radius arm bushing nut.
Also, the shock absorber looks long. Might be camera angle or eye trick...but looks like it is too long for this truck. Plus, I don't recall seeing a nut under the rubber bushing and I've definitely never seen a jam nut on top of a shock or struck as if you added an extra nut.
Probably want to raise the ibeam a little before tightening the radius arm bushing nut.
Also, the shock absorber looks long. Might be camera angle or eye trick...but looks like it is too long for this truck. Plus, I don't recall seeing a nut under the rubber bushing and I've definitely never seen a jam nut on top of a shock or struck as if you added an extra nut.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Fresno
The coil springs I believe should work there are numerous posts on here about using them. I believe ultraranger was the first to recommend. I think because of the angle of the truck being on high jack stands it makes it look off. I was able to put everything in but won't know if it right untill I lower it. I will do that tomorrow and post picture.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2021
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From: Fresno
As the the shocks they are correct size as they fit just fine no problem to install at all. The jam nut on top is something I've always done on my shocks just habit I guess not really needed though.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2021
Posts: 154
Likes: 18
From: Fresno
The only thing that limits travel I think is the coil strap on top and the concave washer with nut that holds the bottom of the coil. It didn't have anything else before I disassembled
