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I just had a brand new Curt hitch installed and it looks so pretty under the new bumper. I'm planning a trip with a trailer in tow and would like to know how you guys attach your safety chains to the hitch. The oval holes on the hitch are horizontal making standard hooks questionable as far as security. The last time I towed, I rand the chain through the holes and hooked back on the chain itself. That seemed to work pretty good but scraped the hitch around the holes. I'm considering a vinyl coated chain. Has anyone come up with a better idea?
By "standard hooks" I am guessing you mean the bent S hooks like so many small utility trailers come with?
You could replace them with a set of spring latched trailer safety chain hooks, like the larger and heavier trailers come with.
I connect mine to the hitch using the hooks. On the camper I have the retaining springs and the boat just has hooks, but the chains are actually cables that have a coating and are coiled so they keep off the ground. In both cases, I hook them from the bottom. For years I put them on from the top, but I read somewhere the “proper” way is from the bottom and started doing it. I’m not necessarily convinced that it matters, but that’s what I do. Also supposed to cross them so if the trailer comes off the ball, the tongue will sit in the X created by the chains. Again, not super convinced that if the worst happens, it’ll matter anyway. I’d rather not find out though.
I use these. You're going to scratch stuff up, cant be avoided.
Those quick links at best are rated for under 2700lbs WLL on 3/8 if they are rated at all. Even basic grade 70 chain is 6100lb rated in 3/8. I suggest using the 8800lb safety clevis hooks. They are common and cheap.
My question; do you connect the hook to your hitch or run the hook and chain through your hitch and connect the hook back on the chain.
No matter which type of hooks the trailers that I've towed have had they always had their hooks attached directly to the hitch. And the breakaway cable, if the trailer has brakes, gets attached to the bumper or frame of the tow vehicle, never to the hitch.
No matter which type of hooks the trailers that I've towed have had they always had their hooks attached directly to the hitch. And the breakaway cable, if the trailer has brakes, gets attached to the bumper or frame of the tow vehicle, never to the hitch.
Why never to the hitch? by the hitch do you mean the receiver?
Why never to the hitch? by the hitch do you mean the receiver?
Yes, never to the receiver. By attaching the breakaway to the bumper (the EX has little loops under the bumper for this) or frame of the tow vehicle you are ensuring the trailer brakes will get activated in a breakaway event even if it from a total hitch/recieiver failure. The round tube Chevy receiver hitches were pretty good at that once they developed a little rust.......
Why would rust only be a problem for receivers? While I understand the point... receivers are vastly more robust. I know of no light duty vehicle that comes with a secondary point to attach the break away cable.
Those quick links at best are rated for under 2700lbs WLL on 3/8 if they are rated at all. Even basic grade 70 chain is 6100lb rated in 3/8. I suggest using the 8800lb safety clevis hooks. They are common and cheap.
Thanks. I'll look into it. (Not being a smart ***) We're buying a new trailer this year and I want the best.
For years I put them on from the top, but I read somewhere the “proper” way is from the bottom and started doing it. I’m not necessarily convinced that it matters, but that’s what I do. Also supposed to cross them so if the trailer comes off the ball, the tongue will sit in the X created by the chains. Again, not super convinced that if the worst happens, it’ll matter anyway. I’d rather not find out though.
I actually saw this in action to some other guy on the highway. the tongue indeed did rest on the chains due to the X.
I will never do anything other than the X under the tongue. Also make sure to twist the chains up a little so they aren't dragging.
Why would rust only be a problem for receivers? While I understand the point... receivers are vastly more robust. I know of no light duty vehicle that comes with a secondary point to attach the break away cable.
It's not really about how robust the mounting point is; you're trying to make sure that the breakaway trigger cable and the trailer itself should be connected to parts of the vehicle that are as un-connected as possible. I mean, yeah, it's all connected, but if some catastrophic failure happens and the hitch breaks off of the frame somehow, that failure would be unlikely to also take out the bumper. I have a clip in the loop of my breakaway cable so I can wrap the cable around the bumper and clip it back on itself. On the motorhome, I wrap it around the roof access ladder instead of the bumper since the bumper is attached to the same frame extensions that the hitch is bolted to. In the event that the trailer becomes disconnected, the force required to pull the pin from the breakaway switch is so low that if it causes whatever to which the cable it is attached to fail, we're talking about either an un-tested and broken switch or a vehicle that's in such bad shape it probably won't get too far down the road anyway.
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