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Bought some camber bushings and was going to install today.
may have a problem looking for input.
The angle of the bushings look different
one of the bushings is marked 7k 1 3/4 degree and the other 7k 2 no degree symbol.
they were both supposed to be 2 degree camber adjustable.
wondering if this is by design with one being a drivers side and the other a pax side?
emailed PMF but it being Saturday not sure if I will get and answer today .
was going to install this afternoon.
I do have a camber gauge and was going to zero out the gauge with current camber angle then just subtract 1 degree . I have too much positive camber probally from a 2” level kit.
I think they can be adjusted the same with the guage but their ranges would be different ?
since the Oem’s are non adjustable I don’t think it would be the end of the world to use these .....don’t think it would be a problem down the road?
My first thought is that your lift shouldn't have changed the camber much if at all, caster yes. Have you verified that the camber is out if spec?
It does appear you recieved two different bushings, and it is typical to be different on the drivers vs passenger side, to compensate for road crown I guess. Did they come in their boxes? Many times they will show the camber degree and caster degree they are capable of giving. I'm sure you know, as you change the camber with those, it is also changing the caster.
I just had an alignment and my passenger side had a bit more caster than the drivers side if that matters. Mines all stock. 4.6 on passenger and 4.24 on drivers.
Those look to be installed with the split pointing in. However you put them in, make sure the split is pointing the same direction on both or you caster will be off from side to side. That is if the holes are both bored center side to side, and offset to the split for camber.
Those look like the wrong bushings. You can install them to increase caster, but you'll maybe only increase it a little. Ideally, put the higher range one in the pass side, to account for road crown.
Ideally you would install them with the narrower part towards the back of the truck to "roll" the knuckle back and give you more caster.
Those are not adjustable.
This is a 2 degree caster bushing. Notice the hole is near the edge. 2 degrees is the most you can adjust. Again, narrow part (split) towards the rear for more caster.
and this is an adjustable.. it is two half that turn to adjust.
Honestly, don't bother with the adjustable and get a 2 degree caster bushing and drop it in. Those ones you have won't do much of anything.
Honestly, don't bother with the adjustable and get a 2 degree caster bushing and drop it in. Those ones you have won't do much of anything.
What looks wrong about them to you?
He has one 2 deg. and one 1.75 deg. Also, they are adjustable, to a degree, in the sense that depending on how they are positioned in the knuckle will provide a different caster/camber change.
He has one 2 deg. and one 1.75 deg. Also, they are adjustable, to a degree, in the sense that depending on how they are positioned in the knuckle will provide a different caster/camber change.
Because I posted a 2 degree caster bushing. The bushings he has the hole is almost in the center. That spec is for a camber bushing. You can use it as a caster bushing, but I can guarantee that it will not change your caster 2 degrees...
Lifting a truck will change caster to a more positive value. Usually a 1" will change 1 degree, 2" 2 degrees... not camber. Unless your housing is bent, a 0 degree camber bushing is what you need.
Because I posted a 2 degree caster bushing. The bushings he has the hole is almost in the center. That spec is for a camber bushing. You can use it as a caster bushing, but I can guarantee that it will not change your caster 2 degrees.....Lifting a truck will change caster to a more positive value.
This is a 2 degree caster bushing for 05-21(?) 4x4 Super Dutys. I did notice the OP has a 7k vs the 6k that I usually see (maybe because his are for an F450). Otherwise look about the same as the OP's to me.
Also, lifting these trucks nets less caster, the goal with these caster bushings is to increase caster after lift. Opposite of what I think you were saying.
PMF confirmed that the 1 3/4 degree one goes drivers side and 2 degree one goes pax side
I have too much positive camber in both wheels and goal is to change that.
I have a camber guage, 4 jacks, and the rest of the misc tools.
my plan is to take baseline measurements and then adjust both the same and remeasure to confirm.
im going to think about how I can measure before and after caster ......thanks for pointing that out.
You should have little to zero camber. These trucks come with .3 degree camber bushings. Like I said, unless your housing is bent, you don't need to change camber, you need to change caster.
You can use an angle finder on a flat part of the knuckle, with the vehicle on a perfectly flat surface.
Is the hole drilled at an angle, and is the top surface square in relation to that hole?
You should have little to zero camber. These trucks come with .3 degree camber bushings. Like I said, unless your housing is bent, you don't need to change camber, you need to change caster.
You can use an angle finder on a flat part of the knuckle, with the vehicle on a perfectly flat surface.
Is the hole drilled at an angle, and is the top surface square in relation to that hole?
so I bought these to adjust my camber.
Am I wasting my time?
I have a camber guage and can do before and after measurements
not concerned if the camber adjustment creates more negative caster since I also have a pinion arm drop kit that will eventually go on that will move the caster back positive.
I have a camber guage and can do before and after measurements
not concerned if the camber adjustment creates more negative caster since I also have a pinion arm drop kit that will eventually go on that will move the caster back positive.
Those are caster shims, sleeves, bushings.... Usually referred to as caster/camber bushings because they will often affect both depending how they are installed(-/+). If you had the box or knew the part# you could look up the amount of camber change they are supposed to provide, if any.
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