Is there a "best" brand or are they all about the same? New 400 build w/ flat tappet cam. Thinking Rotella T4 for oil. I have searched the forum but most of the info is years old and things change so what is the latest scoop on all this?

 

Imho, I just stick with the name brands

 

I use Valvoline VR-1.for flat tappet cams. My boat with a 5.8 L Pro Boss GT-40 Ford recommends 40 wt.high zinc content. I always have to order the 40wt. I have read lots of conversations over the years some with facts about zinc levels and the VR-1 is one of the best and it is usually available in different weights. Just were I shop 40 wt. is not an item they stock.

 

Rislone Zinc ZDDP Oil Supplement will boost the levels up to what was originally in old motor oil like 1600 to 1800 ppm. That is a good level for flat tappet camshafts.

 

Use what the engine shop warranty recommends for the rebuild cam lift & spring rate. Or if this is a stock rebuild, have a read through Bob Olrees historical notes in the Tech Info thread here, Engine Oil Myth Busters - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums (ford-trucks.com) about what blenders found was too much & caused iron grain boundary spalling, the additive was supposed to prevent !!! SO, if your gonna self treat your lube, use the right recipe & Don't use too much !!! More thoughts for consideration.

 

I laugh out loud at the irony in the reality of the engineering team(s) that developed oil life monitors being lauded as super-smart lubricant technician heroes in one post, while in another post, oil life monitors are lambasted as being science voo-doo and their creators cretins.

 

Some good points for sure, more is not better with the exception of very few cases, and none of those have to do with motor oil.

I have met Bob and heard him speak at multiple events, and not going to quote him. But it has been told that from GM's perspective, like relating to Dexos, that oil is 100% backwards compatible. Again from GM people, but then the fine print or asterisks if you will is that none of those vehicles are under warranty by GM and are of little concern.

One persons fact is another persons myth, and vice versa.

 

At this point I will be going with a dedicated break-in oil. Why play around with guesses and what-ifs in order to save a few dollars? After break in I will use oil that has a good amount of zinc in it and not try to play chemist with some additive bottle. While that Oil Myth article was a good read is it still relevant today? Things change all the time in regards to what is in the oil now vs then. Depending on the article you can't necessarily go with the diesel oils any longer as they have been cleaned up same as gasoline engine oils. For me the easiest and safest route will be to spend a few extra $ every oil change to get the correct oil. Will likely be going to Amazon for this, same as the 10w40 full syn I need for my Miata as I can never seem to source locally.

 

Motorcraft Super Duty Diesel oil maintains just about the highest levels of zinc and phosphorus available. It’s the oil I run in my 77. You can check the specs of most oils at the Petroleum Quality Institute of America web site.

https://pqia.org/

 

Thanks for this thread everyone. I have a few older vehicles that have been waiting patiently for me to give them the attention that they deserve, and this is one of the quandaries that has popped up over the years related to their flat-tappet lifters. I've often thought that I should modify to roller lifters on all of them, solving the problem, but easier said than done on the weird ones.

 

understood but really unnecessary.....cheap materials such as aftermarket cams have led to this widespread belief but if you speak with guys like isky you will get a different picture

 

I have one that is nearing 40 years old on it's original cam (and entire engine). It has run full synthetic 10W30 for almost half its life and has no obvious issues. At the same time, I've never measured anything because I don't want to take it apart just to measure. So, maybe my lobes are worn down to nothing and/or the lifters are, or maybe everything is fine. No way to tell from the outside except look for metal, which there isn't. I also don't want to add zinc to its diet if unnecessary, and if it is necessary, I don't want to add too much. Seems like guesswork to read the can then pour . . . unless the can's contents are customized for every application (LOL). Hence my quandry.

"isky" ?

 

See here: https://iskycams.com/about-us.html

Old school guy, began in drag racing some years ago.

 

Ah okay. Thought you were talking about a member or something. I've heard of Isky cams and lifters and such, but only in the racing world. I haven't looked into them much otherwise. Some neat tech articles over there!

 

Very exceptional background in both racing and street engines.......has THE most advanced cam grinding equipment in North America! (I'm not kidding)