Electrical problem
Thread Starter
|
New User
Joined: Sep 2020
Posts: 21
Likes: 0
Electrical problem
Does anyone have any idea why my truck refuses to start? I have an 86 f350 with the 460. I just replaced the alternator and the starter. It has a new battery but I have to jump it to get it to start. It turns over and then makes a grinding noise and it gets weaker and weaker. I jumped the solenoid and it clicks like it's supposed to. I've checked all the wires and they all look good.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,157
Likes: 1,167
Before changing any more parts, pour yourself some coffee and peruse this. It was written specifically for your situation:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html
Make sure the battery is fully charged before any testing. Most new batteries are not fully charged at the time of sale. I suggest hooking up an automatic charger overnight, something with at least a ten amp output. A trickle charger won't cut it.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...w-starter.html
Make sure the battery is fully charged before any testing. Most new batteries are not fully charged at the time of sale. I suggest hooking up an automatic charger overnight, something with at least a ten amp output. A trickle charger won't cut it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Does anyone have any idea why my truck refuses to start? I have an 86 f350 with the 460. I just replaced the alternator and the starter. It has a new battery but I have to jump it to get it to start. It turns over and then makes a grinding noise and it gets weaker and weaker. I jumped the solenoid and it clicks like it's supposed to. I've checked all the wires and they all look good.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,965
Likes: 2,725
From: Virginia
Does anyone have any idea why my truck refuses to start? I have an 86 f350 with the 460. I just replaced the alternator and the starter. It has a new battery but I have to jump it to get it to start. It turns over and then makes a grinding noise and it gets weaker and weaker. I jumped the solenoid and it clicks like it's supposed to. I've checked all the wires and they all look good.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
Trending Topics
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 5,650
Likes: 1,156
From: Tolland, CT
Can you give us more background on this truck, did you just buy the truck or have you owned it for along time ?
I hope you understand its not normal for all these things to go at once...
I hope you understand its not normal for all these things to go at once...
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,157
Likes: 1,167
You other guys okay? Kinda worried because the Battery Cable Bunch hasn’t chimed in yet and suggested replacing all of the cables just because. Hope you guys are well.
A bit of unrequested and over-rated troubleshooting philosophy for the original poster: See the link in post #2. Begin with a fully charged battery and spend ten minutes with a voltmeter. This test will confirm if your new battery and existing cables are up to snuff. If not, the test will pinpoint the exact fault. If all good, the next step is to check the charging system, to make sure the battery is getting a proper charge.
A bit of unrequested and over-rated troubleshooting philosophy for the original poster: See the link in post #2. Begin with a fully charged battery and spend ten minutes with a voltmeter. This test will confirm if your new battery and existing cables are up to snuff. If not, the test will pinpoint the exact fault. If all good, the next step is to check the charging system, to make sure the battery is getting a proper charge.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 5,831
Likes: 121
From: St Albert, Alberta
You other guys okay? Kinda worried because the Battery Cable Bunch hasn’t chimed in yet and suggested replacing all of the cables just because. Hope you guys are well.
A bit of unrequested and over-rated troubleshooting philosophy for the original poster: See the link in post #2. Begin with a fully charged battery and spend ten minutes with a voltmeter. This test will confirm if your new battery and existing cables are up to snuff. If not, the test will pinpoint the exact fault. If all good, the next step is to check the charging system, to make sure the battery is getting a proper charge.
A bit of unrequested and over-rated troubleshooting philosophy for the original poster: See the link in post #2. Begin with a fully charged battery and spend ten minutes with a voltmeter. This test will confirm if your new battery and existing cables are up to snuff. If not, the test will pinpoint the exact fault. If all good, the next step is to check the charging system, to make sure the battery is getting a proper charge.
The testing procedure may not even be needed and may just need a visual... If the battery is getting dragged down that much by the starter there will be visual clues as to where the fault is. It may not be the battery cables or electrical at all, hence the request for more information. No point just blindly shooting in the dark. So just take a chill pill you can't do proper diagnostics with out information or even pick a direction to go.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,856
Likes: 4,106
From: Angier, NC
You other guys okay? Kinda worried because the Battery Cable Bunch hasn’t chimed in yet and suggested replacing all of the cables just because. Hope you guys are well.
A bit of unrequested and over-rated troubleshooting philosophy for the original poster: See the link in post #2. Begin with a fully charged battery and spend ten minutes with a voltmeter. This test will confirm if your new battery and existing cables are up to snuff. If not, the test will pinpoint the exact fault. If all good, the next step is to check the charging system, to make sure the battery is getting a proper charge.
A bit of unrequested and over-rated troubleshooting philosophy for the original poster: See the link in post #2. Begin with a fully charged battery and spend ten minutes with a voltmeter. This test will confirm if your new battery and existing cables are up to snuff. If not, the test will pinpoint the exact fault. If all good, the next step is to check the charging system, to make sure the battery is getting a proper charge.
We are good
If the battery cables look bad or of unknown age just replace them and never worry for a few more years
Listen to what they are saying on testing to find the weakest link
Dave ----
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 7,157
Likes: 1,167
And FWIW, I still have the original factory cables in my truck, still going strong 37 years later. I did replace the short cable between the battery and starter relay as a precaution due to a little external corrosion, but the others are still original.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
coleboy11
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
4
Jun 16, 2013 04:10 PM
DirtStripHero
Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L)
16
Jun 9, 2008 05:58 PM
supercab blue
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
8
Dec 14, 2007 11:36 PM
orionfreak
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
5
Aug 26, 2004 10:01 AM