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Looking over the 400 I'm going use yesterday and noticed the oil pan is different. My truck is stock 351M and 2wd and has the front sump pan. It appears the pan on the replacement 400 has a rear sump pan. After some research here I'm guessing it's a car or 4x4 pan..correct?
What will need to be changed to accommodate the swapping of the pans..just the oil pump pickup? This was something I totally overlooked until now so I hope it's not too big of a pain to change.
Yes you'll need the pick up tube and tube mounting stud, the dip stick tube and dip stick and of course the front sump oil pan. Hold on to the rear sumper and use it to trade for something you may need for your truck down the road. They are a little hard to come by with all the parts in good shape
Thanks Redrock for the information. I'm guessing the studs and pickup tube just transfer from on to the other with no problem..right? Should a new pickup be purchased or are they reusable?
No visible leaks on the C6, but it does have issues. When cold and put into gear sometimes there's a delay before it does finally engage. Hopefully that's next on my list after the 400 installation.
Ok finally getting this installation process started. Life kinda got busy with father in law having an accident on his tractor and wife getting Covid.
Now I'm at the point where I need to find TDC to install my dizzy. I can't put my finger over #1 and rotate the crank at the same time so what other options do I have to get this done? Valve cover is off so I can see the rockers during rotation.
Any advice is appreciated.
Finally got my rebuilt engine installed and cam break in went fine. Fired right up and followed the procedure I gleaned from reading through all the forums over the last few years. No leaks of any kind and good oil pressure during the process. Used recommended break in oil, let it cool down overnight, drained and refilled with new filter and added proper coolant for the road. Now I'm down to getting everything dialed in to get her back on the road. The sticker on my valve cover states the timing is supposed to be set to 18* at 650 rpms. This is the setting I used for initial start and break in procedure. Now when trying to get the carb tuned I have a stumble just off idle and it surging during my first test drive. Vacuum gauge shows steady 16 hg on manifold port and advance plugged for timing adjustments. I've tried retarding and advancing the timing a few degrees and problem is constant. Any advice or tips you guys can share would be appreciated.
400 with RV/towing cam
Edlelbrock aluminum intake
Holley 4160 carb
What carburetor are you using? Is the vacuum advance tube connected to ported vacuum? Have you tried sucking on the tube to see if the diaphragm in the distributor vacuum can is any good still?
If the ported vacuum fitting on the carb is open to atmosphere by a torn or dry rotted diaphragm in the distributor can, it'll give a extra dose of air to the engine with no fuel just as you start into the throttle from a stop.