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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 08:49 AM
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New purchase questions

I am wondering if there is a best year for a 6.7 powerstroke, as I don't know much about them. I am contemplating getting rid of my 2001 F350 and getting something newer. I found one that I am interested in enough to go look at, but I don't know much about this generation to know what I could be getting into with it. I was originally looking at 2011+ F250/F350's but I read some information on here and other forums about the turbos having issues in 2011-2014, so I have narrowed it down to 2015+. I am also not very excited about a super high payment, so I have really narrowed my field down.

The truck I am considering looking at is a 2015 F350 longbed 4x4 6.7 King Ranch with 150K miles, burnt orange with brown stripe on the bottom, hasn't been massively lifted (looks like it could maybe be a leveling kit). Appears it's in good shape. Rhino lining looks a little weathered in the bed and has a 5th wheel hitch currently installed in it. They are asking 35K for it. I don't think this is a horrendous price considering how much everything around it goes for and considering what this truck originally cost. So I am more asking for what is something I should target on this and other trucks like it, as well as what to expect maintenance wise down the road.

I am a little concerned with the space under the hood and being able to do my own work. At 150K miles, that's not a lot for a diesel, but I know things like injectors and other components don't last forever without a rebuild/replacement. This won't be a daily driver, and assuming it remains reliable, the intention would be to keep the truck for at least 10 years, if not longer (I would say forever, but I am trying to be realistic). I put about 4000-6000 miles a year on my truck, and it's basically just a weekend/project completing vehicle. I will want something that can tow with no issues of EGT's being too high and not being able to support the weight of whatever I might need to tow. Right now, all I need to tow is an older 88 suburban, but could be a camper in the future.

I realize this is a heavily opinionated topic, and many have different ideas on what is smart/not smart, good or bad. Realistically, I don't NEED this truck, I just want the truck. So I am trying to remain open.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 01:02 PM
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Best advice is 2015 to 2020 as best choices.

2013 to 2014 as a second best choice.

My 2013 was rock solid.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 01:09 PM
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When considering this truck, you need to crawl under it and look it over good. Make sure all the emissions is intact and it has stock programming. Run a scanner on it.

See if the owner will let you hook up to your trailer and take it for a spin.

Shine a light through the valley of the motor. Question how long the interval is for fuel an oil changes, types of oil and filters for both oil and fuel.

Does it have a stock air filter on it.

Finally EGT's will never be a problem with stock power levels when towing, There are many aftermarket OBD readers that can give you good into. I use banks idash, just plug it in and there you go, it also reads codes.

Here is a pic of it.

This is on my 2020 F450
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 01:47 PM
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Originally Posted by senix
When considering this truck, you need to crawl under it and look it over good. Make sure all the emissions is intact and it has stock programming. Run a scanner on it.

See if the owner will let you hook up to your trailer and take it for a spin.

Shine a light through the valley of the motor. Question how long the interval is for fuel an oil changes, types of oil and filters for both oil and fuel.

Does it have a stock air filter on it.

Finally EGT's will never be a problem with stock power levels when towing, There are many aftermarket OBD readers that can give you good into. I use banks idash, just plug it in and there you go, it also reads codes.

Here is a pic of it.

This is on my 2020 F450
I always get underneath every vehicle before I buy it. In fact I just was undermeath a Camry I was looking at for my sister.

But the truck I specifically put is at a dealership. So I highly doubt I can do some of that. But I don't know much about the DEF stuff and not sure what to check for on that. Amy pointers there? I would probably want to bypass it myself eventually so I would want it intact as well. I don't have a scanner unfortunately either other than a check engine reader and my Aeroforce for my 7.3.

I walked away from any truck years ago when looking for my current F350 that had a K&N filter.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 01:51 PM
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dealer ship should know if the emissions are intact. you can crawl under neath too.

Drivers side rear wheel well you can peak though to check for the DEF tank. Is over or right in front of the rear axle.

You can open the fuel door and see if the filler spout for the def is still there.

Run thru the screens to check for any messages and def level.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 02:06 PM
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At a Ford dealer?
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 02:10 PM
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Originally Posted by kper05
At a Ford dealer?
It's at one of the dealerships where the big names all sell used inventory. There's a few in the area I'm located. It's like a hub for the dealers to bring cars I guess.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 02:16 PM
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in this case you really need to crawl under the truck and look it over and scan it or test drive it to an auto parts store and scan it.

Check all fluids and stuff closely.

It would be helpful if you have an online link you could post and we can have a look at it.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 02:48 PM
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If a 2016 or older, just look it over good to make sure the DOC/SCR/DPF unit doesn't appear recently bolted back on. The dealership can connect IDS and provide number of miles since last active regeneration for better peace of mind (if willing to is a different story). The exhaust tips should not be sooty.

The same would be true for 2017+, it's just difficult to delete/tune now.

I've found the OBDLink MX+ to be handy to own, it just works. Install the OBDLink app on your phone and add the Ford enhanced OEM add-on, connects over Bluetooth. If they allow you to connect it, you have everything needed in your pocket. It also works well with FORScan for Windows with a Bluetooth enabled laptop for if you decide to purchase a newer truck.

If previous ownership used it to tow regularly, EGR/DPF should still be fairly healthy. Check the engine/idle hours. The EGR cooler doesn't handle a lot of idling over time.
 
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Old Feb 28, 2021 | 09:08 PM
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When crawling under the truck more importantly make sure the oil pan isn't leaking especially on the front drivers side.
 
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 09:30 AM
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2015 introduced the gen2 6.7 engine so start with that year.

 
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 10:10 AM
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Off the top of my head

2015 added more power
Larger Turbo without a wastegate which also included the updated coolant and oil connectors that were prone to leaking in the previous years
Coolant rerouted in the EGR Cooler to prevent it from clogging prematurely
I think they also added a coating to the CP4 pump internals about this time


 
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Old Mar 1, 2021 | 10:53 AM
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I've got a 2015 similar to what you're looking at. I've also had to repair nearly everything that can go wrong with it. If you're truly concerned about price, then you shouldn't be looking at a King Ranch. Some of the lower interior package levels will offer significant savings. For example, I bought my 2015 XLT for $36k back in February 2017 and the one you're looking at 4 years later is about the same price. Sure, I don't have leather, heated/cooled seats, or outdated navigation, but I do have all the capability of the one you're looking at.

What you should be looking for:
  • Oil leaks (upper oil pan gasket and vacuum pump are known issues)
  • Has it been deleted? (straight exhaust pipe = yes; huge 1 ft diameter space station-looking exhaust = no)
  • Has it been tuned/modded? Some tunes can cause damage to the engine (https://powerstrokehelp.com/6-7l-pow...ngine-failure/)
  • Engine codes? (DEF heater and CCV sensor are known issues)
  • Cold-side intercooler pipe stock or aftermarket? (stock is known to crack/blow causing reduced power)
 
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Old Mar 2, 2021 | 09:56 AM
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These are all good suggestions that I appreciate. In reference to the specific truck I mentioned, it was more of a base point if I was to start looking. I'm not dead set on needing top of the line trim packages or anything. My dad just bought a 2019 dually king ranch and let me tell you that thing is probably the nicest truck I've ever seen. Made me want one immediately, but he paid cash for it and I'm not on his level Financially yet.

If I actually start looking soon I will reference this list and if I have real questions about a specific truck I'll post back here if really interested. Thank you all for your help.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2022 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Braggs
I've got a 2015 similar to what you're looking at. I've also had to repair nearly everything that can go wrong with it. If you're truly concerned about price, then you shouldn't be looking at a King Ranch. Some of the lower interior package levels will offer significant savings. For example, I bought my 2015 XLT for $36k back in February 2017 and the one you're looking at 4 years later is about the same price. Sure, I don't have leather, heated/cooled seats, or outdated navigation, but I do have all the capability of the one you're looking at.

What you should be looking for:
  • Oil leaks (upper oil pan gasket and vacuum pump are known issues)
  • Has it been deleted? (straight exhaust pipe = yes; huge 1 ft diameter space station-looking exhaust = no)
  • Has it been tuned/modded? Some tunes can cause damage to the engine (https://powerstrokehelp.com/6-7l-pow...ngine-failure/)
  • Engine codes? (DEF heater and CCV sensor are known issues)
  • Cold-side intercooler pipe stock or aftermarket? (stock is known to crack/blow causing reduced power)
I know this thread is almost 2 years old, but wanted to add my recent experiences with my 2015 Lariat. This summer I kept getting a check engine light and using my OBD scanner, it kept indicating DEF problems. I took it to Ford after the 3rd or 4th time of resetting the CEL. Ford indicated a tech bulletin and Customer Satisfaction Program that would change out the tank/pump with no charge to me. They changed it and on the way home, the CEL came on again. Back to Ford and on the way, the truck went into limp mode and I "idled the remaining 4 miles to the dealership. They indicated the SCR needed to be replaced, at a cost of about $5k. YIKES !!!!! Well, I went to the internet and started searching, found more Customer Satisfaction Programs, one which provided for changing the SCR (at Ford's expense) if certain DTC's were present. Sure enough, all those codes were present, but before Ford would approve the repairs, they wanted a complete historical service record for the truck. Fortunately for me, the only service done anywhere but the dealership was changing out tires. It took almost 2 months to get the truck back (national shortage of parts due to COVID) at least that's what Ford said, but Ford picked up the entire tab for repairs at the tune of almost $7K by the time they replaced the NOX sensors, the SCR, changed out the DEF tank a second time (don't ask me why, the service manager couldn't answer that question either), but since then, the truck has run great with no further CEL's. All this started at around 68K miles on a 7 year old truck.

Fortunately for me, even though I've been tempted to take shortcuts, install a "modest tune" and do some other things to the truck, I never did "take that plunge" and the truck was "bone stock with all service done at the dealership" (oil changes, front brakes, fuel/air filter changes and coolant change) While I'm not advocating that owners shouldn't do their own maintenance, I would suggest that if you do, keep receipts and good records....

While everyone has different experiences and feelings about service and especially about Ford standing behind their products, at least in this situation, Ford "did good by me". I side-stepped a major repair cost, largely because I didn't "make changes that might be considered a violation of warranty"... Sure, I could have fought the decision (if Ford had refused to repair) but with the truck "all stock" I didn't have to face that battle.... Why do I post any of this?? As posted previously, if buying a used truck, what the previous owner may have done can be of significant consequence "down the road".....
 
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