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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Duraspark II Conversion

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Old Feb 22, 2021 | 11:36 AM
  #1  
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Duraspark II Conversion

Hey everyone, I have a 1985 F-150 with the 300 I6. It was equipped with the feedback carb, which of course did not work right, ran rich and rough. So I made the decision to convert to Duraspark II. I bought all new parts to make this conversion, including the wiring harness which is made by Painless Performance. However, It is not starting. I put the distributor in at TDC (pretty sure, was confused as to which timing marks to use), and when I try to start it, holding down on the starter, it fires, so it's getting fuel and spark and it's turning, but as as soon as I stop cranking, it doesn't stay running. I'm guessing it's a wiring issue?? Any help you guys have would be much appreciated. Am I possibly missing something? At my wits end. All the forums I had read here said to rip a harness out of an older truck, but I thought it was easier to just buy new. Everything I had read said that you plug into the truck harness into the module, but I THINK that this painless harness eliminates that by having me wire it myself to the starter solenoid. I think.

Here is a link to the wiring diagram from Painless:
https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30812.pdf

Here are the parts that I used:

Ignition Coil:
https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tu...102/118422_0_0

Ignition Module:
https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tu...102/118422_0_0

Wiring Harness:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/prf-30812

Ignition Coil:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...ion+coil&pos=0

Distributor:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b...tributor&pos=0

Non-Feedback Carb:
https://www.maxpeedingrods.com/produ...arburetor.html
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 10:58 AM
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The painless harness is a pain. Here is the manual, your link threw a fit for some reason https://www.painlessperformance.com/Manuals/30812.pdf

On page 2 is the diagram. Where did you tie in the brown "power in start crank" wire

and where did you tie in the two red wires. One red goes to the module the other red goes to the coil where the brown wire goes.

And did you use a resistor?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 11:02 AM
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painless duraspark wiring diagram
Here's the diagram
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 11:39 AM
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I wired it just like the diagram there. Except for one thing - I'm not sure about the purple wires (Painless Chassis #920) on the diagram going from the Ignition switch to the resistor, and the ignition switch to the solenoid, I'm not confident where it is, or if it exists. I did use the resistor that painless provided. Are you suggesting that the Painless diagram is incorrect?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 12:06 PM
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There was already a wire on the "S" terminal so I assumed that was the one that went to the ignition switch.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolby Clark
I wired it just like the diagram there. Except for one thing - I'm not sure about the purple wires (Painless Chassis #920) on the diagram going from the Ignition switch to the resistor, and the ignition switch to the solenoid, I'm not confident where it is, or if it exists. I did use the resistor that painless provided. Are you suggesting that the Painless diagram is incorrect?
Here is a link showing more info on using the Painless harness. I started this at post 77,
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19525866

Also read posts 87-95, in the above thread, it has good photos showing the missing wire... Chassis #920.
Jim



 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolby Clark
There was already a wire on the "S" terminal so I assumed that was the one that went to the ignition switch.
Does you starter solenoid have 2 large and 2 small connections like shown in the Painless diagram, post 3?

Jim
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 04:18 PM
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Check the voltage at the coil positive, Key ON. engine not running.

Jim
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 07:21 PM
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Well I was following the painless diagram, but that proved to be fruitless so now I'm going based on that thread you linked to, and plugging into the truck's harness. I'm about to hook up the red/light green wire to the + side of the coil as directed by Franklin2 on post 79. I believe I've done all the steps before that, so hopefully it starts up. And now that I am plugged into the truck's harness, I do not need to wire up the Painless ballast resistor, right?
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Kolby Clark
Well I was following the painless diagram, but that proved to be fruitless so now I'm going based on that thread you linked to, and plugging into the truck's harness. I'm about to hook up the red/light green wire to the + side of the coil as directed by Franklin2 on post 79. I believe I've done all the steps before that, so hopefully it starts up. And now that I am plugged into the truck's harness, I do not need to wire up the Painless ballast resistor, right?
If you use the Ford truck wiring, then no you don't, it already has a resistor in it. And it already has the bypass in it, no need for the wire to the starter solenoid.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 07:32 PM
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Okay, cool. I will try to get it going and let you know how it goes.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2021 | 08:33 PM
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Well, it runs now! Just one thing - how do I get my oil pressure and water temp back?
 
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 06:26 PM
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Those wires should be still out there. One of them is a white/red and the other is a red/white. Plug them into the single wire sensors screwed into the engine. If you are not sure if you have the right wire, turn the key on, and take a meter and test the wire for voltage. If the voltage is blinking on and off with the key on, that is one of the correct wires.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2021 | 10:31 PM
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Ah ok, thanks Franklin2 I’ll try that. So now get this: it’s running, and then I shut it off, and then I tighten the dizzy so I can drive it around the block. Then I try to start it, and it won’t. So then I loosen the dizzy, have someone move it around as I try to start it, but nada. Then I unplug and plug in my connections, and it starts and runs great again. So then I shut it off, go to tighten the dizzy so I can drive it, and then it won’t start again. Any ideas?? I am beyond confused at this point.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2021 | 11:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Kolby Clark
Ah ok, thanks Franklin2 I’ll try that. So now get this: it’s running, and then I shut it off, and then I tighten the dizzy so I can drive it around the block. Then I try to start it, and it won’t. So then I loosen the dizzy, have someone move it around as I try to start it, but nada. Then I unplug and plug in my connections, and it starts and runs great again. So then I shut it off, go to tighten the dizzy so I can drive it, and then it won’t start again. Any ideas?? I am beyond confused at this point.
If it was running when you tightened the Dist hold down bolt, would it die?
There are 3 wires going into the Dist. The black one is the ground for the entire IGN system.
I really don't have a clue why this is happening.

JIm
 
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