Temporarily you could use Gorilla tape to cover the upper right side rear top window where it fits into the body. When you're able to run the water hose that'll tell you more. You can't look to see a leak like this. Run the hose.


Chances are those issues are NOT the cause of your leak---stop concentrating on that area UNTIL you've addressed the window issue.

 

I understand that using the hose is what I need to do. As I stated, freezing temps, rain/snow, and work hours have prevented me from having an opportunity yet. After the suggestions about the window seal, i decided to take a look at it. That was not to diagnose the problem, only to check it out and compare it to other seals. As for the gutter, I noticed that while standing on the ladder looking at the window and figured I'd inquire. Prior to someone posting about stripping the sealant, i didn't know that was there. Seeing that void made me wonder, hence why I included that pic with the question. I hope to be able to use the hose in the next day or two.

Thanks

 

I agree with dashstiffrod my van it a 2005 and I have replaced the third
brake light 2 times in 16 years because the gasket on the bottom that seals it to the van goes bad mine is a cargo van and it only would leak when the van is parked in certain positions because it doesn’t have a headliner I can actually watch it leak

 

Water gets under sealer, freezes, which expands making the gap larger leading to a bigger leak, my 99 has it cracked at the rear and rusting the lip, it expanded out, looks bent outward.

 

Found it. It's the window as people said it likely was. Thinking about filling the gap with silicone for now. Anyone know what it might cost approximately for a glass place to repair it?

Thanks all and hopefully this helps someone else

 

I had the same leak in my 94 e350.
I tried the regular clear silicone first and it didn't work. I guess the thick consistency of the silicone makes it impossible to fill all the tiny voids in the rubber gasket.
Then, I tried flex seal and it worked.


I did the following work from the outside of the van. I taped up the glass and the metal before shooting the rubber liquid on the gasket.
Two or three light coats work best rather than one heavy application

 

And now the second part of this issue I was afraid of 😩
Any tips? I may have this professionally done. My project gmc safari had the same but worse in multiple spots. Since it's the project I can experiment. This van needs to be done right.


Rest of the floor is fine

 

Thanks, I forgot about the flex seal. I used the tape on my project safari temporarily. I don't want to do that on this van and mess up the paint. This could actually be a more permanent solution for both.

 

Well I'm glad my 35+ years as a former body shop owner and now working in the truck/auto glass business didn't go to waste.

Call or visit several auto glass outfits, let them suggest something and get an estimate. Being in the auto/truck glass biz I'd have to see a job before spouting a price either too low or too high.

What you're seeing is due in large part to the factory floor mat being saturated with condensation over the years. The backing absorbs moisture from the air and never evaporates out leaving the floor constantly wet.

The time to have the floor repaired properly is now----this damage will begin to grow at a fast paste. Removing as much of the interior trim surrounding the so-far observed rust will result in a better job. If you take it to a body shop have them describe their repair process and what they'd do or use to prevent their work from creating more rust growth,

 

I'll see how well this turned out over the weekend with another hose test. Based on that, then a car wash test.