Well after me owning my eco-boost for 30K miles it went Boom.

2013 , 3.5L , Screw 6.5FT Bed, Max Tow , build date 10/12

Purchased the Truck in AUG 2019 , 86K Miles
First issue at 89K miles with Shudder
- Change Plugs Gapped .030
- Change Coil Packs
- Drilled Weep Hole
- Installed UPR Mega Catch Can
- 5-Star 87 Perf/Tow Tune

2nd issue at 95K Miles with right side manifold
- Peeled that manifold back and got it replaced

3rd issue at 110K Miles the left side manifold peeled back

4th issue at 114K miles the engine went BOOM
Pulled the plugs and they were GREEN with corrosion, definitely moisture

For as much as I loved and invested in this truck I feel I did everything right here, Ford said no to help so now I'm down to two options:

1) Used 2017 Motor w/ turbos 70K Miles , I understand I can run everything just need to swap the intake manifold
Can anyone confirm that?

2) New Long Block, CR Performance Headers (To prevent peel back & OE is out of stock), New Cats (SPD Down Pipes), New OEM turbos, ? Newer Ford CAC?

I know my current inter cooler was an AC style with the 2014's being the AD, I've seen info on the AD's being inefficient but I don't care about power at this point just reliability. I can't find the AD model intercoolers at this point only DL3Z6K775B which says it's for 13-17 models. Do they have the baffles that the 2014s have inside them? Yes they are inefficient but if they keep my engine from blowing so be it. I know the 15+ got the electric fins that open and close air flow so I'm unsure if it would "solve" the problem on a 2013 truck.

 

I assume you live in a warm climate but if you drive in below freezing temps, somehow I feel your add-ons may have had a hand in the engines demise.

 

Yeouch, that's awful. What was the mode of failure? What were the running conditions when it broke? How was the coolant level?


Is the engine out of an F150 or something else? If the F150, the 2017 engine will not work because that was the year they switched to the second-generation engine. It's completely different with port- and direct injection, and I don't think you can get it to work electrically with the rest of the truck.

 

This is the listing they have 3 different engines available right now. My guess this would be not from an F150 as they are aware of the year interchange. Id call and verify before ordering.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-F150-E....m46890.l49292


The failure its self was me towing from NC to WV which I due about once every two months with 7klbs. This tow it was super cold and snowing. Got the misfires pulling up the mountain. I let out the throttle and thankfully it coasted to the top and cleared the code. Easied back into it and happened again. Pulled over drained the catch can about half full. Then proceeded again and still the issue. Pulled the plugs and changed them. Truck ran fine from there till about 30 miles from home on the way back. Just went boom cruising on the way back. Thought I blew a tire, it sent the #2 rod out the block.

 

One other thing to add, does anyone know service interval on the catch cans? We all recommend running run and I have been for the last 25k miles. But what would happen if one of the check valves got stuck?

I sent a message to UPR about how often they should be changed and didn't get a reply. I almost wonder if the check valve got stuck? I mean all that crud we collect does go through them


If that happened would it act as a syphon under boost? I know the check valves are for alternating when it is under boost or under vaccum.

 

I can't say for sure, but catastrophic failures like that just aren't common. And the conditions you mention aren't conducive to moisture accumulation, which often occurs under low loads in human conditions. Can't say for sure what caused your misfire, but I doubt it was water from your CAC.

Catch cans are common among enthusiasts who peruse Internet forums, but are in the extreme minority overall. No idea if it contributed to your failure, but I think that's more likely than anything to do with your CAC. Obviously it has nothing to do with the manifold problems you had, but I would replace with a stock unit and leave it the heck alone.

 

I'm very suspicious of catch cans being used in below freezing temperatures. The sellers of these units should caution buyers of their systems temperature limits but I'm pretty sure they're not tested in various climates. Not saying it was your failure cause, but the way they mount the can outside of the engine compartment just doesn't cut it for me since they not only hold oil but condensed water vapor as well.

https://www.f150ecoboost.net/threads...istance.63305/

 

2/3 to 3/4 of everything I drained if not more was always water. However, i will say even though it was below freezing the water and oil mixture poured right out. So it wasn't frozen. I due suspect it played a part, however, I can say even if I fix it and keep it. It will be the last Ecoboost I own

 

One major problem you had was being in the unfortunate position of having only direct injection. Ford has since gone to dual injection in order to help control fuel dilusion and carbon coated intake valves.

The short distance I drive to work would be a disaster for a direct injection engine. I would probably have more gas in the crankcase than oil.

Look at all the problems Kia/Hyundai has with the 2.4 DI engine. They have blamed the problem on everything but what is really wrong.

They took a port injection engine and introduced high compression and direct injection on an engine not designed for those forces.

 

So sorry for your loss, this is catastrophic for sure.

I noticed you stated that you drilled the weep hole and added a catch can. Why have both? The weep hole alone should have been more than sufficient. With you pulling hard through the mountains, you're in boost all the time and should have easily pushed everything out the weep hole.

Additionally, there's no way for sure to know how the truck was maintained for it's first 86K miles. The xtra care that you took since purchase couldn't have been enough to offset what may not have been done correctly. The point being, if the previous owner(s) followed Ford's oil change recommendations, the truck would have had 8 oil changes prior to your ownership. My 2011 truck has 107K on it and the oil has been changed 21 times.

Anyway, I do understand and appreciate your frustrations with the ecoboost. This engine has been overheated and or under maintained prior to your ownership.

 

Thanks, what is the consensus on fixing the truck?

Do I fix it to sell , or fix it to keep and do more than I've already done in terms of "bulletproofing" the truck

 

I vote fix with OEM components, either new or used, and drive it. These things rarely catastrophically fail, so it was either a fluke, consequence of the mods, or previous owner's use. The odds of this happening again are extremely small.

Bone-stock trucks very rarely blow up. Trying to "bulletproof" anything may just poison the well.

 

If you go with a used engine, look at the intake valves with a scope before installing the engine. They may be carboned up, which may cause random misfire. Most dealerships have the tools to walnut shell, or some other media, clean the valves.

 

Ford has approved method to decarbon the valves as of yet.

My neighbor had a 2012 mirror image of my 2011 truck and decided to have his valves walnut blasted by some hack and ended up needing a new cat and then a whole new set of issues started. He sold the truck for a song and swore off the ecoboost engines even after being advised not to tinker with it.

The best way to keep a Gen 1 ecoboost clean is to put your foot into it and smile as the smooth quiet power sets you back in your seat.

 

Is this really a problem, though? I can't think of a single instance where someone's valves caused a problem. I remember @ford390gashog mentioned awhile back that he's never seen it in his fleet, either.

I don't think it's an issue in the real world. Which makes catch cans a solution in search of a problem.