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Upfitter Switch to Engine Block Heater

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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 02:04 PM
  #16  
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I have this same setup in my truck and I also had it on my previous truck for 17 years with no problems. My truck sits a lot between usage so I have an onboard battery tender to keep the batteries charged up at all times. I installed a Marinco plug in my front air dam to plug the truck in, when the truck is plugged in my battery tender is keeping the batteries charged. If I also want to run the engine heater I flip my aux 5 upfitter switch which has been switched to be hot at all times which controls a 120v solid state relay which then applies power to the engine heater. I also have a warning light next to the push button start that blinks when the truck is plugged in, if I don't see the light and start the truck a buzzer will sound until the truck is unplugged.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 08:46 PM
  #17  
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Just to counter the nay sayers, I’m chiming in to say I find the OP’s idea perfectly reasonable. Truck frequently plugged in, block heater only needed once in a great while. Seems like a switch makes perfect sense.

 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 08:59 PM
  #18  
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Also just as a precaution, use a gfci outlet or inline adapter when plugging into your truck. That way if for some odd reason a wire gets nicked by a rock, or fiction you won't have a truck frame sitting there with 120v on it.

I'd recommend a gfci whenever anyone plugs in any block heater on any truck.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 09:36 PM
  #19  
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If you assume the block heater is 500w

an inverter with 85% efficiency would need about 57 amps

that means your uplifter switch would power a large relay

relay needs to connect tons. Power source to run inverter

at 50 amp hours per hour, the battery to power the block heater over night would be in excess of 600 amp hours to totally discharge, maybe 1000 amp hours to keep the battery from being discharged below 40%


about 13 super duty batteries would pull it off.


 
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Old Feb 3, 2021 | 09:47 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by winglesss
As always, safety first.

The inclusion of AC voltage on the vehicle must be done properly for safety.

The usage of a solid state relay in this application has limitations different than those for an electromechanical relay. During the selection verify not only voltage and current, but also duty cycle, operating temperature range, storage temperature range and same for relative humidity.

This OMRON Solid State Relay White Sheet includes useful information about usage of these parts.

One of the biggest differences is that a solid state relay typically fails in the closed (on) state while a relay typically fails in the open (off) state.
This data sheet details the appropriate safety measures for proper usage of a solid state relay.

This example wiring diagram shows a proper installation, w/ appropriate protection.

One suggestion I would offer is the double pole circuit breaker shown would be better if it had an on/off lever, permitting usage as a switch, if required.



 
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Old Feb 4, 2021 | 05:10 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
If you assume the block heater is 500w

an inverter with 85% efficiency would need about 57 amps

that means your uplifter switch would power a large relay

relay needs to connect tons. Power source to run inverter

at 50 amp hours per hour, the battery to power the block heater over night would be in excess of 600 amp hours to totally discharge, maybe 1000 amp hours to keep the battery from being discharged below 40%


about 13 super duty batteries would pull it off.
Why the inverter? The OP is plugging the truck into his house. Inverters are used to convert DC power to AC power. I don't understand why everyone is so confused about what the OP is trying to accomplish.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2021 | 06:26 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Chris 86
Why the inverter? The OP is plugging the truck into his house. Inverters are used to convert DC power to AC power. I don't understand why everyone is so confused about what the OP is trying to accomplish.
good question

look up the item on Amazon ....the listing says it installs on the bumper

so how would you get electricity to it with out an inverter

there was no assumption made that the block heater was going to be powered by house ac.

what I wrote up will give you block heating anywhere .

it depends what you are trying to do.

if all you want is to permanently mount ac stuff and have one rear point of ac Install and connect to house current....then yes...you don’t need on board power.

 
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Old Feb 4, 2021 | 07:24 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz
good question

look up the item on Amazon ....the listing says it installs on the bumper

so how would you get electricity to it with out an inverter

there was no assumption made that the block heater was going to be powered by house ac.

what I wrote up will give you block heating anywhere .

it depends what you are trying to do.

if all you want is to permanently mount ac stuff and have one rear point of ac Install and connect to house current....then yes...you don’t need on board power.
It is an male inlet that mounts in the bumper. It does not supply power, it receives power from an extension cord. Powering a trickle charger from a battery that it is trying to charge makes no sense.

I think a lot of people post replies based on the title without actually reading the post.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2021 | 07:39 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Section179
Just to counter the nay sayers, I’m chiming in to say I find the OP’s idea perfectly reasonable. Truck frequently plugged in, block heater only needed once in a great while. Seems like a switch makes perfect sense.
If that's the case, just use a remote controlled outlet for the block heater cord and push a button from the comfort of your recliner. It's what I use with my truck. I wake up about 4hrs before I go to work, so I just hit the button when I get to the living room in the morning.

And on another note, if the OP has to plug a cord into the splitter mounted on his truck, he might as well just plug in the block heater cord at the same time (to a device like below). Won't have to open up the truck, climb in and flip the switch either...
But it looks like the OP has answers for either way he chooses.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Woods-13...55WD/203638969


 
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Old Feb 4, 2021 | 07:53 AM
  #25  
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The OEM block heater is 1000 watt


When I use mine, which is rare, I plug it into a standard timer and have it come on 4 hours before I plan on leaving. The heater works great heating the coolant to about 80-90 degrees. I get heat at 100 in my 19’ 6.7
 
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Old Feb 4, 2021 | 08:36 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Chris 86
It is an male inlet that mounts in the bumper. It does not supply power, it receives power from an extension cord. Powering a trickle charger from a battery that it is trying to charge makes no sense.

I think a lot of people post replies based on the title without actually reading the post.
exactly

if you want internal ac power anywhere you go, you will need an inverter

if all you are doing is consolidating ac eclectically connections to the back of the truck and use hose hold ac power then you don’t need and inverter

original post does not indicate where the ac will be coming from

 
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Old Feb 4, 2021 | 11:23 PM
  #27  
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The number of people convinced the guy is trying to run the block heater off the battery in this thread is amazing me!
 
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Old Feb 9, 2021 | 05:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ATC Crazy
If that's the case, just use a remote controlled outlet for the block heater cord and push a button from the comfort of your recliner. It's what I use with my truck. I wake up about 4hrs before I go to work, so I just hit the button when I get to the living room in the morning.

And on another note, if the OP has to plug a cord into the splitter mounted on his truck, he might as well just plug in the block heater cord at the same time (to a device like below). Won't have to open up the truck, climb in and flip the switch either...
But it looks like the OP has answers for either way he chooses.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Woods-13...55WD/203638969



Exactly what I was going to suggest first, you could also run a second power cord and plug it in to the block heater (with or without a timer) when you park it and the temps are going to be cold, this is a lot simpler and cheaper. than buying relays, snaking wires and scraped knuckles. You already have to unplug the cord for your tender, what's unplugging one more cord while you're out there ?
 
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