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I am starting to hate how wheels are mounted on vehicles these days. You wonder if the engineers ever heard about galvanic corrosion between dissimilar metals. Like the aluminum wheels and steel hubs.WTF were they thinking? Could not get my rear wheels off even after hitting the tire with a sledge hammer. I am thinking about using a scissor jack between the frame and rim. Anybody think of another way? Just think if you were if you had to get the tire off for any reason where you had no service to call someone.
Spray PB blaster on it and let it soak. Then get under your truck and blast the wheel with a piece of scrap lumber. Coat the backside of the wheel with anti seize when you finally get it off.
If that doesn't work I would put the lug nuts on kinda loose and set the truck down then jump in the bed and shake the truck until the wheel pops loose.
2 parts Dextron, 1 part acetone. Mix. Put in squirt bottle. Soak around rim & drum. Wait 15 minutes. Tap wheel with rubber mallet. Done. Best rust buster on earth.
Kleen Wheels used to sell fiber backing plates to resolve this. I’ve loosened lugs a turn or two, and driven down my driveway to break them loose. Turning and backing around to make sure they popped loose.
I had that problem on a duel wheel setup once. I finally ended up backing the lug nuts off about 1/2 to 1 turn. Then I drove it a few feet working steering wheel back and forth and hit the brakes. They came loose.
Loosen the lug nuts then lock the rear axle. Put your foot on the brake pedal and give it some gas, not enough to overcome the brakes. You should feel the wheels break loose. Or you can loosen the lugs and drive it around the block making a couple left and a couple right turns.
I removed the stock steel wheels from my F-150 for the first time just the other day. One wheel was stuck on the rear axle hub. The truck was up on jack stands and I loosened the lug nuts about a single turn. I got under the back of the truck and kicked the backside of the tire several times until it popped free. My truck is a brand new 2020 with less than 250 miles.
After reading the suggestions in this thread, I will definitely never use my method again. I like the idea of applying a thin coat of anti-seize to the end of the axle.
The main thing is to remove all of the corrosion from the wheel mounting and hub faces. Then, apply a rust inhibitor to the wheel mounting face... At work we use something called black lube which is actually for tire mounting, but it works great as a rust inhibitor for the hub faces and it kind of dries in to where the wheels never stick.
As mentioned above, spray PB Blaster or even WD 40 on it and let it soak in. Then move the truck back and forth a few feet at a time. That should break it free.
After that happened to me, I started spraying WD40 on the mating surfaces each time I swap my summer/winter tires and I’ve never had the problem again.
Smokewagun, thanks for the tip I will mix some of that up this weekend.
You are welcome! My dad turned me onto that mixture a couple years ago, when I had brake drums fused on the back of the truck. I beat on them for an hour with rust bust and they wouldn’t break loose. Finally, before giving up I put the mixture on waited literally five minutes, tapped them with a hammer and they popped right off.
Thanks for all the suggestions. Used the Dextron/Acetone mix overnight then put a 2x4 against the rim and gave it a whack with the lugs loosened. Popped loose. Perfect, put some anti seize on the mating surfaces before installing so i should not have an issue next time.Now for the fronts.Ha.
Interesting. In my 50 + years of driving I've never heard of or experienced this problem. Aluminum wheels have been around forever, this isn't anything new.
CR that is probably because you haven`t experienced the joys of road salt and road brine. The shop I go to uses a wire wheel to clean the hub and backside of the wheels anytime they remove them.
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