Yep, it's finally flowing like Old Faithful and I really don't feel like tinkering with it. Is it possible for me to just replace the seal myself?

 

Are you asking about the gasket between the pump and timing cover? If so then yes, but to go that far and not replace the pump seems like a waste. A quality Gates kit is $60-65 and all it's missing is a thermostat.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ater+pump,2208

or

 

When you get your new pump make sure to Dremel all the burrs on those dirty castings.

 

No, I suspect it's leaking where the shaft comes through the front of it. The bearing/seal must press in and out of there and I figured someone here must have done one themselves. I don't think there's much to them.

 

Is that original with 176000 on it? Maybe oil cooler o-rings at same time.

 

Hmmm...it is.

 

I paid top dollar for the Alliant unit hoping it was better than the competition. The pump appeared to have been thrown in a large bin with the others after the machining work, and then dumped into another bin. After a bit of filing and sanding on the mating surface I deemed it usable.

 

I did mine back in July. Went with a Motorcraft unit for simplicity’s sake, got a Riff Raff filter to install eventually. It started leaking a couple/few weeks before, and the time was now or never. Did it in the hot sun on the side of the road in my cramped snooty subdivision I was living in! Same week I moved to my new forever home. Pump in Tuesday, pack and load Wednesday-Thursday and then hit the road for 450 miles Thursday night. Figured - hauling a big trailer up and over several mountain ranges from the west coast to my new home 40 miles west of the continental divide? Eh, no big deal, but maybe I should...

I did my fan clutch at the same time. Both were original at almost 300k miles on the truck, late 2000/early 2001 dates marked on them. First time I’d ever done a water pump since I started driving 17 years ago. They leak from the bearing, since that’s where all the movement and wear is. The seal around the body isn’t the issue. Very impressive to have a unit last so long. These trucks are pretty damn solid.

It takes some time but nothing more than the usual wrenching skills. The worst part for me was getting the lower hose back on the horn that bolts onto the pump. Was an absolute nightmare and I don’t know why. I used a lot of tricks and a hell of a lot of muscle (I have verrry strong hands) and it went on,
mostly straight... I used a Motorcraft hose as well. If I had the money they’d all be silicone upgrades from one of the quality outfits that make ‘em. Maybe that would have made the difference.

It’s a bit of work but plan for it and just get it done. Set aside a weekend, carry water with you in the meantime - and hopefully you don’t see any cold weather! There are some great write ups from
forum members on how to properly flush the coolant as well. Would definitely recommend a good ELC as long as the truck is compatible.

 

Thanks for that and the insight on the lower hose. Fortunately, I don't need the truck for anything right now so I can work at my leisure. I find the hardest part is getting my rear end out there and getting started. Once going I am persistent. I just got done moving my stuff out of a barn and my tail is dragging but I feel like I'm recovering. I plugged it in overnight a couple of nights ago but will probably drain it out and get it into the garage today and start on it. NAPA has a new water pump at the local store and that's what I'll probably go with. Since that one's new, I shouldn't need to return the core so I can do a little R&D on this one once its out. I'm E99 so it's green coolant for me.

 

This is what I use in my early 99. Found it at Atwoods Ranch supply, even got it on sale. I did some Google searching before I used it and found its supposed to be safe. 1

 

I prefer non SCA.

 

It’s not to bad of a job Mark. I went with a Airtex pump on mine. Has been around 8 years ago at least and no issues here. I did install a coolant filter afterwards also. By no means saying that’s needed just don’t know if that has to do with it lasting awhile. My biggest advice would be to recommend hitting the nut on the fan blades with a air hammer. I tried going strait to the wrench and it didn’t work for me. Hot it with the air hammer and she spun off by hand. Also take the bolts out and put them into the corresponding spots on the new pump and then transfer them back so you know which one is which. If memory sits me there is a least 2 different size bolts possibly 3. I would agree with the non SCA coolant if possible too. That reminds me I need to get more test strips to test mine. It’s been a while.

 

Take the opportunity to replace everything IMO while the rad is drained if you can swing the expense. Pump, pump pulley, outlet elbow, t-stat, billet t-stat housing, and both hoses. (Silicon would be nice but not necessary). If it’s the original coolant bottle I’d be tempted to replace that with an aluminum one and both of it’s hoses too along with a new OEM cap. Then you wouldn’t have to mess with any of that for a long time. The fan clutch can probably be reused. The holding tool in a fan clutch tool kit comes in handy getting it on and off.

 

*E99 is why the sca precharged was recommended

 

A pair of these on the pulley and my 18" cresent work pretty well on the fan. I've had it on and of half a dozen times and they work the best in my opinion.