When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
1975 F350 390. The whole truck was rebuild in the 90s by the previous owner so the what is original is unknown.
I need to rebuild the carb but Im having trouble figuring out what I need. There are several differences from the 2100s I see for sale new and my carb although I'm fairly confident this is a 2100.
Is the below link the correct kit for the carb pictured. Do I need the premium kit with the diaphragm or without. Thanks for the assistance. I want to get this truck operating correctly including correct choke operation. For years you had to keep your foot on the throttle some for a few minutes till it was warm enough to idle.
I think that's a 2150 isn't it? If you check out Mike's YT videos he outlines the differences and how to tell. The 2100 had long gone bye-bye anyway when your truck was made. A 1.21" venturi was probably made for a car. It might seem strange, but even large, heavy trucks were fitted with a lot smaller carbs. I'd write Mike and ask him, though without a tag he might be hesitant to offer an opinion on general principles.
Everybody in general tends to order the wrong stuff, and then wants their money back + free shipping.
Probably don't need the upgrade kit unless you know a new float is necessary, or maybe the idle mixture screws are buggered.
If an electric choke conversion is available that's your best bet on the choke.
What's that mess on the back of the carb ? it looks like someone put bondo over holes ? maybe it's normal I'm not familiar with these but it sure looks off.
I don't know if it's a 2150 or not. I'm not opposed to buying a new carb either if I can find the correct one at a reasonable price. It's just an old farm truck that needs to be reasonably reliable. The mess on the back is a dirt dauber nest.
never heard of a dauber . they must not like sub zero weather.
There are imported reproductions you can buy but I can't imagine they're much good. normally I'd never suggest a 2x4 convertor plate but if you have a good small 4V carb laying around it would solve your problem.
A Holley 2300 you can still buy new or rebuilt. that would probably be your best bet. it would bolt right on and parts everywhere they sell auto parts.
It’s hard to tell from your picture, but there’s an easy way to tell a 2100 from a 2150. Flip the carb upside down, and look at the back side of the carb mounting plate. If the mounting flange is straight across from the two mounting holes, it’s a 2150. If there’s a slight concave or dish in towards the body of the carb, it’s a 2100.
I would spring for the kit with the diaphragm. These carburetors are pretty simple and easy to work on. The choke mechanisms can be a little tedious to get to work right but it’s very doable. The throttle shafts like to get worn out and cause an air leak, but they can be bushed. I’ve had to do all of that to the 2150 in mine. But now I get in the truck, put the accelerator to the floor to set the choke, and it fires right up. Every single time.
never heard of a dauber . they must not like sub zero weather.
they’re wasp like creatures that make mud nests under just about everything. I bet there was 70 pounds of mud from dirt dauber nests under my 77 when I got it. For the better part of two weeks after I got it running and driving I’d here dirt clods falling when I hit a good bump and they’d break free.
Is your truck an automatic? If so, it looks like it is missing the dash pot in the second picture. I mounts in the two holes behind the intake bolt for the carburetor.
Is your truck an automatic? If so, it looks like it is missing the dash pot in the second picture. I mounts in the two holes behind the intake bolt for the carburetor.
What does this do? My truck has it and it doesn’t seem to do anything.
It was an anti stall device for when you let off the throttle. When I put that carb on the engine, I forgot to install the dash pot. I would have to tap the throttle to keep it running when I let off the throttle. I have read that they were not on the 2150, only the 2100. I dont know how accurate that is, I just noticed the holes on the carb from the OPs pic. That carb looks just like my 2100 but there could be differences.
I had to replace my intake so I upgraded to a 4 barrel carb. I went with the Edlebrock 400 performer and AVS 2. I can list all the parts I had to use if you’d like? VERY satisfied with the setup.
It's a manual transmission. The choke system on mine appears to be locked up. I can't get the linkages on it to even shake, I'm beginning to think the choke hasn't ever worked since we've had the truck. I'm looking at the 2bbl ford carbs on Amazon with electric choke for $100. They seem to have pretty solid reviews, but the biggest venturi I've found is 1.14 which is the 300 cfm. Would that be sufficient for a 390 in a f350 dually dump truck with 4 speed, or is the 350cfm of the 1.21 necessary?
Also, here is a picture of the back. The back isn't perfectly flat across the back but doesn't v in either.
