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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 10:35 AM
  #16  
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From: Candy Mountain
I took the breaker box out of the equation, and did continuity checks again, and everything still looked good. So, I plugged the main harness back in to the computer, and plug the tps back in and fired it up. CEL, and now a 126 MAP code. No other codes present. nightmares of the past return!

There has to be something going on in the harness... I am thinking of just replacing the whole main harness with a NOS part.
 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by R&RFord
...I am thinking of just replacing the whole main harness with a NOS part.
Where would you buy a brand new, still in the bag/box, harness for a ‘94?
 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
Where would you buy a brand new, still in the bag/box, harness for a ‘94?
Candy Mountain...


Sorry, I could not help myself
 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 02:44 PM
  #19  
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From: Candy Mountain
I have not seen or thought about that video in a long time.

 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 02:49 PM
  #20  
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You are welcome!
 
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Old Jan 20, 2021 | 08:23 PM
  #21  
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From: Candy Mountain




 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 11:22 AM
  #22  
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Alright, so the old harness is out.

Comparing the fuse boxes, I realized the original is missing a a relay and a fuse. Pulled out the owners manual, and it looks like a PO disabled the ABS and I never noticed since there was never any problems... so we will see how that works out when everything is back together. I am surprised the ABS light hasn't been on...
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 05:49 PM
  #23  
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surly, he didnt remove bulb...but then again?
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by torq'ta 5 8
surly, he didnt remove bulb...but then again?
Well, that's one sure way of keeping that pesky bulb from shining in your eyes.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 06:52 PM
  #25  
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From: Candy Mountain
okay, so...

Harness installed, truck running. No CEL, no MAP issues, but high idle issue remains. I am thinking the throttle isn't returning to idle baseline mechanically or bad TPS. The lack of TPS codes/CEL makes me lean toward the mechanical, and the computer just doesn't think the throttle is closed. I am thinking of putting a BBK unit on the truck to see if that makes any difference. I have one on the shelf, i just hate the dang thing. The pedal is way too stiff because of heavier return springs.

A little further down the rabbit hole we go...
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 07:12 PM
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Are you sure the TPS is installer correctly? It's possible to get the TPS tangs in front the throttle shaft tangs instead of behind.

I always rotate the top of the TPS slightly toward the rear of the throttle body when installing, then rotate forward until the screw holes line up.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 07:19 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by R&RFord
The pedal is way too stiff because of heavier return springs...


I don’t think that is the problem. I have one that was so stiff that the cruise control cable would pop off the throttle cable. Eventually the springs broke, I believe, because the shaft couldn’t move
freely in the bushings. I sent it back under warranty. BBK said they didn’t see anything wrong but must have either done something to it or sent me another one in exchange. I don’t recall if it looked like the same one or not. I also complained to them that the lower coolant nipple is angled wrong and is turned in the wrong direction compared to the original part. I put the it on but it wasn’t any better than before so I put an OEM one back on it’s still in the box on a shelf. Same as yours.

I removed the antilock bulb in my Bronco but I had also replaced the 8.8 with a 9” and removed the RABS HCU on the frame with an adjustable valve.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 09:32 PM
  #28  
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From: Candy Mountain
Originally Posted by yardbird
Are you sure the TPS is installer correctly? It's possible to get the TPS tangs in front the throttle shaft tangs instead of behind.

I always rotate the top of the TPS slightly toward the rear of the throttle body when installing, then rotate forward until the screw holes line up.
I use the same technique, and visually check to make sure the TPS is turning with the throttle shaft...

As I said earlier... I see it oriented differently sometimes... I have it with the pigtail pointing toward the driver side, but it doesn't seem it would make a difference if you turned it 180 degrees, except the pigtail would clear the ignition wires much better.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 09:36 PM
  #29  
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From: Candy Mountain
Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks


I don’t think that is the problem. I have one that was so stiff that the cruise control cable would pop off the throttle cable. Eventually the springs broke, I believe, because the shaft couldn’t move
freely in the bushings. I sent it back under warranty. BBK said they didn’t see anything wrong but must have either done something to it or sent me another one in exchange. I don’t recall if it looked like the same one or not. I also complained to them that the lower coolant nipple is angled wrong and is turned in the wrong direction compared to the original part. I put the it on but it wasn’t any better than before so I put an OEM one back on it’s still in the box on a shelf. Same as yours.

I removed the antilock bulb in my Bronco but I had also replaced the 8.8 with a 9” and removed the RABS HCU on the frame with an adjustable valve.
I really dislike the BBK unit. It makes low speed throttle and take off control almost impossible, and sometimes it just seems unsafe. This is my second unit actually, as the first one had a leaky coolant fitting. This one is actually worse than than the first, one of the fittings was loose enough to wiggle, but since I didn't want to eat shipping again I put it on the shelf.
 
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Old Jan 21, 2021 | 10:05 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by R&RFord



Whoah! I love how you pulled that rabbit out of the hat.
 
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