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I've just been going through a recent issue of 4x4 garage and there's an article on 8 great first 4x4's. In the Ford corner their pick is 76.5 - 79 Ford pick ups. They indicate that pre 76.5 units are less preferable becase of the divorced xfer case. I thought it was the other way around. Their opinion is based on the reasoning that you can't get heavy yokes which ultimately limites things in the big tire big torque neck of the woods.
Also their choice in engines is the 351C whereas I have always been partial to the 390 fe's.
What do you think of this? Personally from an appearance point of view I like to look of the divorced xfer case and was under the impression that the driveline angles were better that the married units.
The 351C is a car motor. Leave it out of trucks. It doesn't develop the torque of a 390FE.
The divorced Xfer case is actually a little better, because the frames on these trucks weren't very stiff, so they twisted a bit, in extreme 4 wheeling you need to have something thats not gonna break as soon as you put a real load on it. The married Xfer case is strong too, and I don't really have a preference on either so go your own route but there isn't any particular weakness in either.
700 pounds... up here thats a pretty small bull, they can get up to around 1500lbs or so. Still though never fun slamming into something you don't want to but all the better if you can get it into the freezer
If you want a big lift, go with the divorced t-case ( 205 I'll assume ).....you can get 1350 and 1410 yokes for it , but you will get slight to bad driveline vibrations with all the u-joint angles that two separate shafts create, a bolt-up t-case with a small lift or proper c-v joints installed will give you a much smoother drivetrain. And as mattsbox said, a 351c is a car motor, 351w's and 351m's came in trucks a 390 is a great truck motor, i dont care what those that dont know any better think i have a 460 but have always wanted to build a 390 with a 428 crank set-up
Are you saying that a stock setup divorced xfer case inherently has more vibration than a married unit or is the vibration more pronounced with the heavy yoke and lift setup? The 390 with the 428 crank, would the characteristics of this motor be similar to a 383 strocker sb chev, i.e. torque monster?
mattsbox99,
Damn straight, any moose in your line of travel is too damn much moose!! Better in a truck than a car though as in a car they tend to slide nicely over the hood and into your lap
I have both trucks and i would say that the divorced case is nicer to work on and especially easy to change clutch and other tranny problems the only problem I can say is that the transfer case hangs down low also because the t-case is so far back your drive shaft is more likely to bend,break etc.
The married t-case is a pain to work on along with tranny work
however I believe that in lifting it is the way to go your front shaft is shorter and is protected even further by the leafs or radius arms and the t-case is nice and high.
And yes the 390 is the power house when it comes to trucks
the truck just doesn't feel itself unless it's loaded down.
I went and searched the running gear forum and learned a bunch more about the cases. Fortunately the truck I've got the deposit on has was seems to be the 205 as it has 4l, n, 2h, 4h selections.
I was ready to be somewhat bummed if it was the 203 because the drive home is long (1200 miles or so) and from what i've read the 203 turning all that extra gear really affects the mileage and wear on the tires as well.
Have fun with the new truck and check back for answers to your questions, I am sure you will have many
You might want to invest in the factory OEM service manuals for your truck. They can be found on CD's at the online store here. You may also be able to find them in paper on eBay. I would also suggest the Haynes and Chilton's manuals. They both have slightly different info and neither is complete. The Haynes does give some work-around solutions to some of those special Ford tools that are called for in the OEM manuals. You can never have too many service manuals.
Manuals are for sure on my wish list and as far as the mags go; it seems hard to know what to take stock in. I mean if you were to take it all straight up and start gathering parts according to the articles it seems to me you could be up "-ahem" creek without a paddle.
sorry it took so long to get back to you yukonhighboy, the vibes are very apparent when you lift the truck because it is near impossible to get the joints on the jack shaft and the rear shaft in sync.....and yes they do need to be in sync eventhough they are on opposite side of the case......i got so tired of putting it in neutral and lining up the yokes again after being in four low ( because the rear shaft and the jack shaft are not in phase ) that i went to a bolt up 205. I do know people that use their truck primarily for offroad use with remote cases and there is no problem, but i enjoy driving my truck daily, aligned, balanced tires, etc.....ps. heavy youkes dont make a difference assuming they are not damaged and out of round (balance)
If I get it then with the remote xfer case, after a run in 4low you're saying that the input yolk and the rear output yolk will be oriented diferently i.e. one yolk horizontal and on may be vertical.
I intend this truck to be my daily driver but I don't mind a little inconvenience and in truth I like the look of the divorced case especially as the truck has a body lift. Also the sound of telling my less in the know buddies that I have to sync up the yolks before hitting the highway will be worth some "in the know points" .
The truck has no suspension lift but I am still a little confused, does a suspension lift cause the tendency for the yolks to go out of phase to be exagerated? If so why?
no, the suspension lift will give you increased angles ( degrees ) on the u-joints, and in order for the joints to rotate without vibration they need to be very close in their angles to each other....for instance the rear output is five degrees then the rear end should be five degrees ( the joints travel eliptically so the opposite angles will cancel each others vibrations , AT LEAST THAT IS HOW MY BRAIN SEES IT ) the best set up i see for the remote case would be to get the jack shaft angles and the rear shaft angles to be very close to each other ( by lowering, angling,tipping, etc. the case, however you do it to get the similar angles ) then not worry too much about the front, since it doesnt see much use or put a c-v in the front ( so you can hit the highway from offroad to offroad without unlocking the hubs and not get vibes ) 1350 cv's are out now so it would be strong enough
For my 6 inch lift I changed my camber degree on the frontend and tilted my rearend with something like a shim or wedge then I had my driveshafts lengthened and now the mud flies even further.
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