Hope someone out there can help! My 2002 Ranger edge 3.0 v6 has suddenly decided she wants to take her time starting up after a reasonable time sat still. Cranks, but takes quite a few attempts to actually start. Have changed fuel filter, made no difference. There's pressure from the fuel pump, but I don't know if it's enough. It seems as if the pressure needed to actually start up has "escaped", so have to crank it quite a few minutes to get the pressure back, to start.
we had a new motor installed October 2018,
Once it's warmed up, it starts up fine. I've changed plugs, wires and fuel filter, so what's left?

 

Welcome to FTE

You've been busy on this one & have provided good feedback on the failure mode & efforts to fix it. Probably a good idea to have changed the fuel filter, if you didn't know how long since it was done.

Since you don't seem to have a fuel pressure gauge, to trouble shoot some more, try cycling the ignition switch from Off to Run 3-4 times (but Don't crank the engine), pausing at Run until you hear the pump turn off each time, then without delay, crank the engine & see if it'll start quicker. If it does, use, borrow, or come by a fuel pressure gauge, attached to the under hood fuel rail Schrader valve test port. Fuel pressure should be 64 +/- 8psi & should hold that pressure half an hour after the engine is shut down, unless the pump drain back valve is failing.

In case you're having more than one problem, scan for pending or set trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Some initial trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let know what you find.

 

[Thanks, you've been a huge help, I think it's the bleed back valve that has failed, as it's only a matter of minutes after running, I have to battle the starting problems again, so the fuel is draining back, and not retaining the pressure needed for the injectors. So I'll change the pump out( was replaced by ford 10 year's ago).
​​​QUOTE=pawpaw;19670390]Welcome to FTE

You've been busy on this one & have provided good feedback on the failure mode & efforts to fix it. Probably a good idea to have changed the fuel filter, if you didn't know how long since it was done.

Since you don't seem to have a fuel pressure gauge, to trouble shoot some more, try cycling the ignition switch from Off to Run 3-4 times, pausing at run until you hear the pump turn off each time, then without delay, crank the engine & see if it'll start quicker. If it does, use, borrow, or come by a fuel pressure gauge, attached to the under hood fuel rail Schrader valve test port. Fuel pressure should be 64 +/- 8psi & should hold that pressure half an hour, unless the pump drain back valve is failing.

In case you're having more than one problem, scan for pending or set trouble code clues & post All code Numbers, as they can help focus a trouble shoot.
Some initial trouble shooting thoughts for consideration, let know what you find.[/QUOTE]

 

If your going to replace the fuel pump, those that have done it, say its easier to remove the tailgate to reduce weight, disconnect the tail light connector & fuel filler hose, then remove the bed bolts & set the bed back on the rear tires, or saw horses & the fuel pump is right there & can be accessed easily, without draining the fuel & wrestling with dropping & re-raising the gas tank.

 

Thanks again for pawpaw;19672795]
for more useful information, but because of time restraints, I think I'll have to get my mechanic to do it.

if your going to replace the fuel pump, those that have done it, say its easier to remove the tailgate to reduce weight, disconnect the tail light connector & fuel filler hose, then remove the bed bolts & set the bed back on the rear tires, or saw horses & the fuel pump is right there & can be accessed easily, without draining the fuel & wrestling with dropping & re-raising the gas tank.[/QUOTE]

 

OK well after he quotes the job, ask how he gets at the pump & if different, like draining & dropping the tank, give him the info & maybe he'll quote a lower price!!!!

 

just to toss in, thats what im dealing with and have for over a year. If it is hot (meaning fully warmed up) and sits for an hour or 2 it takes three start attempts to start. cycling the key does not seem to have any effect. BUT it starts every time if its completely cold, IE sat over night or all day at work. And ALWAYS starts after those three cranks. So its more just annoying and down on the list of things to fix.