1967 N600 Decode & Progress
In the meantime could someone decode the following VIN for me?
VIN = N61EUA58071
Color = J
Model = 612
Body = E81
Trans = L
Axel = G2L
DSO = 53
You sure it's a '67? We'll go with '67 as trucks after 9/69 are all code V for Kentucky Truck Plant. Check that 5th digit!
N61 = N600 gas
E = 361 2V FT V8 gas engine
U = Louisville assembly plant
A58071 = 1967 series number. (Also matches 1976 numbers, but the assembly plant does not match 1976)
J = Red
612 = Should be N612 = N600 gas, 23,000lbs. GVWR Hydraulic brakes 14 x 2 1/2" front.
E81 = Custom cab (?) I don't have all the decode infor for upholstery, and the source I have is a little unclear on year by year changes to these codes.
L = Clark model 2651-V1 OR 2653-V1 5 speed direct transmission
G2L = G2 = Eaton model 16802 Two Speed Rear Axle / 5.57/7.75 / 17,000 lbs. Rear Axle Capacity. (courtesy of Numberdummy in another post)
L = Ford Rockwell (Timken) 6,000lb capacity front axle with HD front brakes
53 = Kansas City District code
Last edited by 85e150; Apr 7, 2021 at 05:14 PM. Reason: Model year clarification./spelling
Front
Rear
Big Red
The answer I was looking for appears to be here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post19452614
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Eaton
Eaton 16802 2 Speed rear outer axel seal. This one has been slinging oil. I took these nuts off to replace the seal but couldn’t get the plate to budge. Any tips? Is this plate actually attached to the spline? Maybe I need to disconnect at the other end first?
You are not the first nor are you alone. This covers the same situation:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...questions.html
1. I loosened the bracket clamp bolt to remove the old one but found the pipe bracket to be solidly rusted in place. It would not budge.
2. I cut it off flush and then used a sawzall and cut the remaining portion into sections. Using a hammer and chisel I collapsed a couple sections and was finally able to pull it out. Liberal use of PB Blaster helped too.
3. I took the old rusted piece to the steel yard and matched the size as close as I could to what they had available on hand.
4. The local muffler shop was able to bend the pipes for me to match the original ones.
5. The outside diameter was just shy of what was needed for the frame clamp to tighten securely down. Initially I thought I would have to weld the pipe into the clamp. However the clamp is cast metal so that can be a challenge. The muffler shop simply expanded the clamp end of the pipes for me which solved the problem. Once expanded they were slightly too large to fit in the clamp so a chisel was used in the top of the clamp to open it slightly larger and allow the pipe to slide in.
Here’s some photos for reference should anybody find them useful. Note the fender was removed in the first photos to complete other work and it made access easier but it’s not required to remove the fender to do this. Makes it easier though.
Diameter of my replacement pipe. Very slightly larger would be perfect for the clamps and not require expansion but the muffler shop had no problem expanding it for me.
Chisel used to open the clamp for the slightly larger diameter pipe after expansion.
Installed.
Step view after completion.
Last edited by Bluetick01; Feb 7, 2021 at 01:56 PM. Reason: Add Photos
with new ones posted but when I called they said they are not available and don’t expect they will be anytime soon due to them being made in China and something about import duties making them too expensive for anyone to import currently. They weren’t aware of anyone else having any available either. I may just go with a new set of 9.00 x 20’s on the original multi piece rims unless anyone else has any leads on a set of used 22.5” x 7.5” demountable rims.
Please let me know if you do.








