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1999 7.3 will not run

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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 06:43 PM
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Willys54
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1999 7.3 will not run

Hi my 1999 super duty will not run cranks over no wait to start light no fuel in bowl and fuel pump won't luck on. Ran a jumper to pump and it pushes fuel. Any help work be great
 
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 11:02 PM
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Welcome to the Forum.
Put charger on the batteries, overnight and leave it on until you get the truck running.
‘Plug the truck in minimum of 4 hours.


Disconnect the fuel bowl heater (FBH) ...leave it disconnected.
‘Replace fuse 30 under dash.
‘Prime the fuel bowl, key on for 30 seconds, key off, repeat 3-4 times.
‘Did the WTS light come on during this period?
Yes-start the truck.
No, did you disconnect the FBH, and replace the fuse with a good one?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2021 | 11:55 PM
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Doubtful it suddenly just would not start........... What lead up to the no-start event ?

Are your fuel tanks full?
Are your batteries fully charged?
Does the block heater get the engine relatively warm?

Hobo
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 04:39 AM
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Sorry about the short post last nite and thank you for the tips I'll explain more.

MY truck went down in the fall before it got cold out. It ran like a top then I was going to town a day I stoped at a stop sign went to take out and I thought I might have stalled it which happens once in a while. It started back up and half mile down the road it shut off again. Coasted off the road tried to start it back up but nothing. There was no wait to start light on. I opened hood checked wires/ battery terminals what not and checked cps wire which I had problems with before. I wiggled the harness going to the computer and it started up. Took it home took computer out and took chip plug off put everything back together and it ran fine for a few days. Started it up one morning letting it warm up and I noticed it was running rough. It got worse then shut off.

I have changed the cps sensor I know ones from parts stores are not the best but it's what I had access to I tried 3 different ones. No luck changed pig tail for it as well. The one I removed when this started looked most melted and came out in 2 pieces. I have unplug file bowl heart check and changed fuses and relays batteries was new in late July new alternator as well. I even swapped out the computer with a friend's running truck. Still have no wait to start light and no fuel to bowl. My block heater does work great and never had any problems with the glow plugs
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 06:57 AM
  #5  
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Colorado350
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From: Colorado Springs
Originally Posted by Willys54
Sorry about the short post last nite and thank you for the tips I'll explain more.

MY truck went down in the fall before it got cold out. It ran like a top then I was going to town a day I stoped at a stop sign went to take out and I thought I might have stalled it which happens once in a while. It started back up and half mile down the road it shut off again. Coasted off the road tried to start it back up but nothing. There was no wait to start light on. I opened hood checked wires/ battery terminals what not and checked cps wire which I had problems with before. I wiggled the harness going to the computer and it started up. Took it home took computer out and took chip plug off put everything back together and it ran fine for a few days. Started it up one morning letting it warm up and I noticed it was running rough. It got worse then shut off.

I have changed the cps sensor I know ones from parts stores are not the best but it's what I had access to I tried 3 different ones. No luck changed pig tail for it as well. The one I removed when this started looked most melted and came out in 2 pieces. I have unplug file bowl heart check and changed fuses and relays batteries was new in late July new alternator as well. I even swapped out the computer with a friend's running truck. Still have no wait to start light and no fuel to bowl. My block heater does work great and never had any problems with the glow plugs

You NEED to get rid of any aftermarket sensors...they alone could be your problem. Is the tin nut on tight on the IPR? Are the grounds clean and battery terminals tight? You are sure fuse 30 under dash is good?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2021 | 07:09 AM
  #6  
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Hi.

Yes the tin nut on the ipr is tight I even swapped the ipr out with a good spare I had. I'm going to order a ford cps sensor today I have checked my grounds and even ran new heavier ones along with new terminal ends and battery wires. The truck is currently at a friend's house that was close to where it broke down at. As far as cps goes I was debating on the ford or international one I have changed the fuse out several times and used multi meeter on it. Also I forgot to mention a few weeks prior to the issue my cigarette lighter fuse blew while spotting for deer
 
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 07:20 PM
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Update. I purchased a new CPS from pure diesel power the new improved sensor for the 7.3 and international engine. Installed it today batteries were fully charged cranks over great cranking it builds oil pressure. Oil level is good as well. Still no wts light no fuel pump no fuel in bowl. Checked fuses and swapped out relays for ****s and giggles. Any other ideas
 
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 09:40 PM
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From: Colorado Springs
Damn, Grab a test light I prefer a non-LED, check fuse 22 under the hood AND 30 under dash, installed, IIRC the left side looking at it should be hot with the key off the right side should be hot with the key on. How do the grounds look?


 
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Old Jan 18, 2021 | 09:40 AM
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Thanks for the truble shooting chart I will hopefully be able to work on it again after work today. The grounds on the truck have been replaced with new heavier ones
 
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