Hello all...newbie to the site and this forum. Lifelong FORD fan.

I am looking for some suggestions for my 2003 Ford Expedition
This truck has 248,000 highway-type miles on its original 5.4 Engine and I get 17 mpg used mostly for errands and occasional trailer hauling (hay).
I maintain it very carefully and have had NO surprise problems with it...until last month.

Here is the overview:

Incident 1: Four weeks ago:
Complete engine shut down while driving down the highway. Pulled to the shoulder. Put it in Park. 30 seconds later, cranked it up and it restarted and drove home.

Dropped it off at our mechanic. They drove it around town for a week. No recurring problems so we picked it up and moved forward.

Incident 2: Two weeks ago:
Driving along the highway; the engine never really stopped...it just acted up and sputtered along then, just as fast as it started, it "cleared" itself. I had no time to pull over, stop, even diagnose...it just cleared itself. Then engine never actually stopped.

Incident 3: Yesterday:
Same as Incident 1 (above) with a complete engine shut down. Pulled to the shoulder. Put it in Park.
2 or 3 attempts to restart with eventual success. Once restarted no problems and drove home.

Moments before the 3rd Incident I felt a slight issue/engine hesitation and immediately knew the mystery scenario was rapidly unfolding.
I checked the dashboard and it looked fine. No idiot lights, nothing out of the ordinary.
The engine simply died...I lost all engine power and drifted to a stop.

I turned on my flashers, put it in Park, to make sure it was dead I gunned the gas peddle...no response.
The key was still engaged so I turned it off and then turned it back on and cranked the starter and it ALMOST caught....
Sat for a few seconds and tried it again...and it ALMOST caught....
Sat for a few seconds more and tried it again...and it ALMOST caught...I was very nervous as it was dark and we were stuck in a fast lane with traffic flying up to us....
Watching the traffic coming up on my rear bumper I sat as patiently as I could for 20 or 30 seconds ..said a quick prayer ...and tried it again...boom...it started.
I put it in Drive and made it home with no issues after stopping and starting the engine at a parking lot.

No warning lights, No noises, Gauges were all normal, No strange fumes, Nothing flashing or flickering.
Please know that the mechanic diagnosed for any codes and there are none. I don't have an OBD2 diagnostic unit as I have never needed one...plus it does not seem that it would find anything to "report."

Full tank of gas. Fuel filter is new and fine. No common denominators as this has happened at 4500 ft and at 7000 ft in different weather and temps and different inclines.
Each time the engine and trans have been completely warmed up and at normal operating temps.
I have done NO engine work since this all started...just checked the oil a few times.

I read that it COULD be the ignition relay (Napa part MPE AR272SB). Also that it COULD be a wire that has had its insulation rubbed off by contact with the AC tube (although I checked that and it seems fine). I am not keen on throwing parts and money at a guess. It was suggested I just drive it until it totally stops...leaving me stranded...and that way, once it gets to the shop, things can be tested until a solution is achieved. We live in a very rural area many miles from cell coverage so that is not much of an option...so I thought I would join this forum and hope for some advice.

Many thanks, my Expedition brothers and sisters.

 

Sounds like fuel to me.

IIRC, yours should still have the old school return style fuel system. Assuming that Is the case, I would check for proper fuel pump and check valve operation.

hook up a gauge and turn the ignition on. Fuel pressure should come up to 40 psi and stay there for 5 minutes. If it doesn’t shoot up yo 40 on the first try or if it doesn’t hold, replace the pump.


fought an issue like this on an old thunderbird for a couple years before I figured it all out. Acted much the same. Usually after long highway runs is where it would act up. Sit a few minutes and would be good again. Was very frustrating and hard to diagnose b

 

Is it the original fuel pump in the Expy ? Highway runs put a good load on the fuel pump, and if it's weak or failing it'll show up there. Do you have a fuel pressure test gauge? The schrader valve on the passenger side fuel rail is the access point to read fuel pressure at the motor. Has the fuse box been replaced yet ? The fuel pump micro relay is soldered onto the circuit board of the fuse box and is famous for burning up. It'll show up as a buzz at the fuse box when you try to start the motor. Also look at the PCM relay there in the top right corner of the fuse box. Inspect it for burned plastic around it's terminals.


If you need the actual upgraded fuel pump micro relay you can find them on Amazon:
New Fuse Box from Ford (vehicle production date between 03/2002-02/2003 ) Ford Expy Fuse Box (vehicle produced between 03/2002 - 02/2003 )

New Fuse Box from Ford for later production 2003's : Ford Expy Fuse Box ( vehicle production date between 02/2003 - 08/2003 )

 

Sounds like burnt fuel pump relay. I had to replace mine a couple years ago.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...dom-stall.html

 

Hello again,
I certainly appreciate the responses and will start tracking these down! These two seem to be a common denominator in this particular problem: Fuse/Relay issues or Fuel Pump related. Indeed, the fuel pump is original equipment and those relays have never been checked let alone replaced.

I will report my progress as things develop. We are heading into town today so am throwing the dice and will see if the problem presents itself. Fortunately we don't drive around much, however, we are in a very remote and rural area with no cell service so a breakdown could mean a bit of a hike or maybe a long wait before another driver rolls by. But that is always the case!

I will check some of these suggestions before we launch and, quite possibly, plan a stop at NAPA for "parts" today!

Thanks again...more soon!

-Dean

 

I pulled the fuse box on Saturday and took the thing in the house and completely disassembled the entire contraption including that jig-saw puzzle of five layers of black plastic sheets and steel tabs...which would only come off one layer at a time....what a mess.

Sure enough, the solder on the board at the fuel pump relay was definitely a darker color and looked "old."

I didn't want to tempt fate so I did NOT try to re-solder it as, if I screwed it up, I would be stranded.
So...perhaps by way of some sort of Christmas miracle, I got the thing back together and RE-INSTALLED it and, boom, the Ford fired right up!

I test drove it for ten miles without a burp and tested as many electrical functions, transmission gears, etc. as possible...no issues at all.

I don't trust it though and am getting a replacement fuse box asap and installing it as I think that relay and solder are quite likely the cause of my woes.

Stay tuned. I am expecting the swap will be non-eventful. Good or bad I will report back in after we have added several miles to this solution.

Thanks again,

-D

 

Hopefully you have discovered the issue.... If not, I would look at the fuel pick up in the tank. Had a few similar issues over the years and discovered things like part of a Baggie floating around in the tank, a piece of cloth or even a wrapper off of a cigarette package. Next would be a fuel hose that collapsed due to the vacuum of the fuel pump.

Again, hope you found it was electrical.

Hobo

 

A hot soldering iron on that pin will reflow the solder quickly and get you by until you can source the replacement. Low chance of screwing that up. Replacing the relay like I did takes a little more confidence in your own abilities, but still wasn't difficult.

 

I would agree With touching up the solder. Pretty low risk affair.

lots of time for stuff like this I just tin the end of the solder gun with a small bubble of solder, let it cool, then place it on the part and let it get hot all together. Usually that will flow the new solder into the old and make a solid connection.

this assumes you have a gun with a trigger instead of an iron. With an iron you just gotta get it hot and put a drop on the connection and remove the iron. Tinning the end a bit helps but you can’t get a blob on it like you can with a gun and let it cool.

replacement is probably the best long term solution, as you have planned.

 

Thanks everyone.

I am digging around on line for the replacement part and contemplating the morning and the 6" of snow that landed in the driveway last night.

Stay tuned...

-D

 

Update:

On Monday I ordered this rebuilt fuse box from here:

https://repairlaboratory.com/rebuilt...7t-4l7t-14a067

I paid $50 extra for express delivery and it arrived yesterday, Wed, around noon.
I had to transfer all the fuses and relays from my old fuse box to this new one and then the new fuse box went into the Ford.
The whole process took about an hour.
Since then, I have driven nearly 100 miles without an intendent.
All electrical systems work fine from the heater fan to the 4WD.
Today I will be putting on another 80 miles as I have to go to town.

The kit from repairlaboratory was everything I expected.
It included the fuse box "chassis"
A baggie of assorted relays and fuses (just in case?)
A return sticker for my old core chassis do once they get the old core I get $100 core replacement refund (I pay for the return shipping).
So my fuse box part cost me:
$185: the rebuilt fuse box
$35: Shipping
$50: Express (USPS) shipping
$25: Return core shipping
$295 Total

Note that my local Ford dealer did NOT have a fuse box in stock, would not have one until Jan 18th (at the earliest), and wanted $680 plus tax.

Note there were other sources on Ebay etc for the same thing for around $400

In all I would order again from the repairlaboratory outfit. I had spent enough time and aggravation on this project whereby I did not want to spend even more finding a better deal (without getting robbed at Ford). Now it's done...she runs again...after a few more miles the intermittent fear and anxiety factor should go away. However, if the thing dies again...then we look at the fuel pump, I guess.

As long as I have your expert eyes and attention: Eventually this 2003 Expedition will make its final trek. I am very impressed with this truck and would like to replace it with another (used) Expedition or F150 but I am not familiar with newer versions of these models. My wife and I are in our 60s and this is our only vehicle used mainly for long distance highways to and from town for errands. Every year I end up hauling a load of hay or two or three for our horses but that is the upper extent of its heavy hauling. We have had it for 16 years and it gets 17 miles per gallon. 249,000 Original miles on its original trans and engine. Any suggestions are welcome...I am not in the market today but will be some day and I simply don't know the history or nuances of the Expedition/F150 line from 2003 - 2020. Which years were good/bad....what to avoid? Ideas are welcome. I have often thought that, should this one need a rebuilt trans or engine I would seriously consider simply getting it fixed as there is really nothing wrong with it...and the price of a trans PLUS an engine would likely be less than just replacing it with a newer unit.

Anyway....thanks again my Expedition friends for all your help!
Here's hoping for a Happy New Year to all!

-Dean

 

Anything newer up to 2014 will have the 3v 5.4 an all the risks comes with it. 2009-14 have the 6r80 which is a really good transmission and really makes the most of the 5.4.

2015 and up have the 3.5 ecoboost and all the risks that come with it. 2018 and up are aluminum and should have the 10r80 transmission.

any of these will do what you are asking it to do. My 2014 is also the occasional hay and horse hauler, and also pulls our travel trailer. Our 06 was the same.

With any 3v 5.4 I’d recommend having about $1500 you can get your hands on to do a timing chain and phaser repair.
with any 3.5 ecoboost I’d recommend having about $2500 on hand for the same repair.


Happy to hear that you got yours fixed. Let’s hope that was the root cause and you are done for many many miles.

 

Hello everyone,

Here is an update:
I replaced the power distribution box with the one I ordered from here:
https://repairlaboratory.com/rebuilt...7t-4l7t-14a067

...and have since put on at least 500 miles and not a single burp.

I just changed the oil (as usual every 3000) and noticed that the next oil change puts me over 250,000!
Still at 17 mpg highway.

I do believe that fuel pump relay on the "mother board" of the fuse box was the issue...so I wanted to resolve this with the forum.

Now...if only I can get that damn kickplate back in...the one that covers the fuse box...it came out with a bit of a fight...now it's not wanting to go back in. No big deal other than it looks like a science fair project down there.

Thank you all for your help. I will keep monitoring this forum in the outside chance I can add to any conversations but it seems you are all much more experienced then me...so I will stay out of the advice business!!

Happy motoring!

 

You usually have to move the carpet out of the way and feed it in top to bottom ....