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re: the rectangle stub shaft out the trans case that the motor goes over.
should i be able to move it? if so, how? i tried by hand and with channel locks. won't move. should it be in or out of 4wh, key on or off, jacked off the ground, etc? the whine seems to be the motor trying to work but can't.
Does the motor make the same whine regardless if it is mounted or just sitting on something under the truck (unmounted) like a cardboard box or piece of plywood still attached to the truck wiring harness? Is the output shaft of the motor turning when it is powered up and not mounted to the transfer case?
Did you match the new motor to the old motor at the parts house or did they just look it up and give you what the computer said?
i hooked a battery to the motor unmounted and it turns. that's also how i got it to line up with the shaft out of the case because the shaft out of case won't turn.
also, looked up the motor per application. i did a visual match and it looks the same.
Jack the truck up off the ground where all 4 wheels turn free.............. Motor not running........... shift lever in neutral........... have someone turn the tires or the drive shafts while you try to rotate the shaft that the motor attaches to................. Can you turn it with a crescent wrench or something besides a pair of pliers?
Hobo
ALSO: Does the transfer case have oil in it? Does the oil have a burnt smell?
sounds like you're saying it should turn. makes sense since the motor has to turn it. going to do what you said. i should have tried the crescent when i had it off before. oil is good, no leaks, no smell. thanks. good info.
Yes....... If you have ever driven an older Ford truck with 4 wheel drive that had the High / Low / 4 WD lever on the floor.... You might remember the force / resistance and finesse it took to get the rig into 4 wheel drive.... Now, you have a small motor trying to do that work for you...
Well should be tone ring in rear diff and then WSS's at each wheel.....? Hmm I should know but not certain each rear wheel gets a sensor, but they should for traction control and ABS. Fronts definitely have one WSS each. Still, I'd expect a code for a faulty sensor. WSS would probably trigger ABS light and VSS, CEL. Of course if VSS was faulty I'd also expect limp mode.
Basically, absent any sensor codes I think it's a Hail Mary.....
update: today, jacked all 4 wheels off the ground. removed the shift motor, again. and with a crescent on the stub shaft out the case, it moves both ways, spring loaded in the 4wd direction. with someone in the truck, had them start it, put in drive while i moved the stub shaft with the wrench. goes in/out of 4wd fine, all wheels turn. put the newest motor back on and no 4wd, same messages. remote possibly of a bad new motor but the old and new function the same. touching the 2 prongs in the connector with only 2 prongs on the motor makes the motor turn. don't know anything about the other connector with 6 pins. bottom line, i guess, is the 4wd works manually but not electrically. still lost.
update: today, jacked all 4 wheels off the ground. removed the shift motor, again. and with a crescent on the stub shaft out the case, it moves both ways, spring loaded in the 4wd direction. with someone in the truck, had them start it, put in drive while i moved the stub shaft with the wrench. goes in/out of 4wd fine, all wheels turn. put the newest motor back on and no 4wd, same messages. remote possibly of a bad new motor but the old and new function the same. touching the 2 prongs in the connector with only 2 prongs on the motor makes the motor turn. don't know anything about the other connector with 6 pins. bottom line, i guess, is the 4wd works manually but not electrically. still lost.
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Let's come down to some basic's of electricity...
Amps versus voltage..
You have verified both (new and old) will run.
The motor's do not have enough power to turn the shaft in the trans.
............. AMPS..........
It appears that you do not have the AMPS to turn the motor when it is under a load.
In shade tree mechanics terms, AMPS are also refereed to as PUSH....
So, where are you loosing amps. Let's start at the battery. Are your batteries fully charged. If not, put a battery charger on them..... Start looking at all the connections between the battery and the motor. Could be a connector, something in the fuse box, a relay, or simply a wire that has damaged insulation and the corrosion has eaten away some of the copper wire and is not visible to the eye.....
If you are ambitious enough you can run both a hot wire and a ground wire to the motor and mount it on the transfer case. You could use simple alligator clips and touch or clamp them to the battery intermittently, with the truck running and on blocks to verify the motor would run with "clean power"......