Hi everyone, So I pulled the trigger and bought a 1990 E150 Conversion van (Parklane) it has 5.8L dual tanks, does anyone know the part number of the Diverter valve to switch the tanks back and forth. Mine was probably leaking and was by passed so only the front tank works, which sucks because the guy I bought it off of said he filled the rear tank because that's the one that works. Van only has 82K on it and very little rust, definitely worth saving.

 

Can you post a pic of the valve? I keep finding 2 different valves. one with 3 ports and another with 6 ports.

New Ford E5TZ-9189-A Fuel Tank Selector Valve Assembly

https://www.ebay.com/i/133584855576?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=133584855576&targetid=10683238578 70&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1015431&poi=&camp aignid=10897343893&mkgroupid=114065833424&rlsatarg et=aud-622524041038la-1068323857870&abcId=9300403&merchantid=6296724&gcl id=EAIaIQobChMIkZ3BrfPR7QIVS0KGCh2VJQMYEAQYASABEgI rDvD_BwE

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/page_...%20selector%20
and
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...tor+valve,6276

 

It'll be about a week before I can try to post pictures, I have the van in the shop right now. When it died in my driveway when I got it home, I couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start and after adding a couple more gallons of gas to the rear tank, I finally called the tow truck and had them take it to the shop, that's when I found out the rear tank isn't hooked up. The shop added gas to the front tank and it fired right up...LOL. So while there I had them put it on the lift to give it the once over and found that the whole frontend was ready to fall off. It drove ok, with a little play in the wheel, but once in the air the right side wheel had like 5 inches of swing, so I just told them to replace it all. I haven't seen it my self but everything I'm finding for this van says it's a 6 port valve, it's just everything I'm finding says back order and Obsolete....Wish I could help more.

 

It would be great to see some pictures of the van too! I saw one Parklane conversion and it looked fantastic. What are your plans for the van and do you have time and space to work on it yourself? I ask because with my 88, I have slowly over time gone through it and replaced most all the sensors and other bits and pieces that are known to wear out just due to age.
It is great that you are getting the front end rebuilt. I have a new set of Moog front coil springs that would probably work on your van if you are interested. When I rebuilt my front end, I ordered the springs and installed them. Moog's web site listed them as being the correct ones as well as their tech support. Well, they did not work for my van. They caused the bottom of the wheels to visibly tilt inward (positive camber). I put the old ones back on which are working just fine. My engine is a 5.0 and perhaps the 5.8 is a bit heavier and they would work.

Back to your fuel issue.
Rock auto as well as FPG both listed the electric 6 post valve #E5TZ-9189-A but I do not think that is what you need...
This is some information from my Ford service manual for my 1988 E150 with a 5.0 an fuel injection.



That indicates that you need this Duel Function Reservoir

 

If you plan on keeping the van and working on it yourself, here are a couple of manuals I recommend

Ford service manual on CD
https://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-1990-B...wAAOSw8W5aU6TR

Electrical, vacuum, troubleshooting manual
This guy seems to have a stack of them. maybe that is why the only other one I found was over $40!
You can normally find a EVTM for around $15-20
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1990-FORD-E...-/402502764371


Here is a couple of examples from the EVTM




Here is an example from the service manual

 

I usually do most of the work myself when I buy vehicles, I just happened to throw my back out real bad last week and I needed to get it out of my drive from blocking in other cars. Yes I do plan on keeping it. I do have service manuals for most Ford F series trucks, but these look like they could come in pretty handy..Thanks for the information.

 

Here are some pictures from before I bought it, it's a little dirty but it's like 99% rust free. I'm sure there are things that will pop up but the drive train is the most important at this point.




I just noticed the top rear lense is missing, if anyone knows where to buy one, left me know.




That's all dirt across the front


The only real rust to be concerned with it at this right fender

 

Here are some pictures from before I bought it, it's a little dirty but it's like 99% rust free. I'm sure there are things that will pop up but the drive train is the most important at this point.




I just noticed the top rear lense is missing, if anyone knows where to buy one, left me know.




That's all dirt across the front


The only real rust to be concerned with it at this right fender

 

I just got the van back from the shop for the new frontend, I climbed under it to look at the valve, it is a 6 port valve, to which I'm finding different ones, so not really sure which one to get. I may try just removing the old one and seeing if I can rebuild it, I'm not seeing any electrical run to it, and after looking the schematic you posted, I'm going to assume my fuel pumps are in each tank, Now the question is...Is the switch on the dash, wired to both fuel pumps or one high pressure pump on the rail, and how can I check to make sure the pumps in the tank actually work....I know the fuel gauge doesn't register on the front tank anyway, and the rear tank is disconnected, but supposedly full and when I hit the switch to the rear tank the gauge still doesn't move, so I guess it could be a ground problem or the gauge in the dash is bad??? But, it'll have to wait til spring now, because we had out first snow and Ice storm here in the Chicago area.

 

same problem than you when i've got my 1989 Club wagon . The 6 port valves was the problem . Following this video and the the my 6 port valves work again few times more but do purchasing a new one later.
When the ignition is on, you can ear if the fuel pump work but with your head really close to the gas tank.
With the electric schema showing by Annaleight (hi Anna !), check also your electrical conections on tanks. Doing that first before open the dashboard.
best wishes

 

Hi Ketch! Great to see you around. I look forward to seeing an update on your van soon..

Mike, after these vans sit for a while and especially with the ethanol fuel in them, the tanks, sending units, and pumps tend to rust pretty bad. The ethanol fuel will draw in moisture and then do what is called phase separation where the gas, ethanol, and water separate into layers. The tank will sweat/ condensate and rust.
Here is a pic of the sending unit out of my 85 E150 that had sat for a couple of years.




My 1988 I drive now had sat for a few years and it needed a new tank, tank pump, and sending unit to get it running right.
I think your safest bet at this point would be to start by draining the fuel tanks, dropping them, inspecting, and replacing any rusted or bad parts. With the tank down you can remove the sending unit and pump and test each of them separately. There is a volume test that cam be preformed on the low pressure in tank pump as well as testing the ohms on the sending unit. The in tank pumps are not that expensive so depending on your budget, you might just want to replace them both so you will have piece of mind that they are new and not going to quit on your first trip out..
Also that will give you the opportunity to inspect the electrical and fuel connections. The fuel connectors have some O-rings inside of them that should be replaced when you have them part.


Hopefully you will be able to rebuild the valve. If not then they are available but be ware of Chinese knock offs.
As to the switch,,, The high pressure fuel pump on the frame rail under the drivers seat is powered directly off of the fuel pump relay which is controlled by the ECM.
The selector switch operates 2 separate circuits. One switching between the front and rear sending units to the gauge and the other circuit switching between the front and rear tank fuel pumps. The 6 port fuel selector valve you have is operated by pressure from the in tank fuel pumps. A common problem that would happen is that the valve would stick in a partial front/rear position and cause flooding in one of the two tanks. That may be why one of your tanks was disconnected.

Thanks for the pics! Parklane was a very nice conversion when new! With a little tlc you can have it looking great again. I like the step bumper and pop out windows that my van doesn't have.. Also your rear seat folds down to make a queen bed? That's counting the rear section with the cushions? I am going to remove my rear seat as it is very uncomfortable to sleep on. I'm thinking of the old style seats on each side in the rear that made into a bed.

You need to pull the fender flairs and running boards off and stop the rust before it gets bad. When i did a repair under my rt door weatherstrip, I lightly sanded it and then used some OSPHO on it. Before the OSPHO dried I wiped it off with a damp rag several times and then let it dry a hour or so. I went back with sand paper and then primer and paint. . I used rust-oleum which is not a good idea if you plan on having the whole van repainted at one point. But my repair is in a place where it wont matter.

 

Yup, with metal fuel tanks you have to consider two important things:

If you store the vehicle for 3 to 9 months, fill it up to the brink after adding fuel stabilizer additive and leave it running fir a few minutes to get the juice flowing everywhere

Anything longer than that: remove and drain the tank completely. Leave fuel filler and ventilation hose open after all vapors have gone to allow ventilation (do not do that anywhere inside as this might cause the air to become explosive)

With todays fuels, ethanol helps keep the gas fresher as it absorbs water. But after reaching a certain level, water will drop below the fuel level and cause major corrosion PITA.

I know it might be a load if work to drain the tank on cars, but it is well worth the effort. With motorcycles it is much easier and after draining I give the tanks a generous dose of WD40 and shake it so that it evenly covers a big surface area.
Never had any rust issues, even with bikes from the 1970s and 1980s (Honda CX500 ftw as well as my faithful Yamaha XT)

 

@annaleigh
Yes the seat folds down to a full bed, I haven't mess with it yet, I think it's electric also.
I have already planned to remove all the fender trim and take care of the few rust spots, but as you probably already know, when there's a little rust showing there's a lot more that's hidden...LOL

As for the gas tanks, That's a spring time project, I already plan on dropping both tanks, replace both in tank pump assemblies. I'm of the frame of mind that right now the fuel gauge not working might be a ground problem, when I drove it home from the shop, I only had the front turn signal working and the left rear brake light working, By time I drove the 3 miles home, all the lights were working, all signals, 4 ways, brake lights. So I'm thinking a loose or rusted connection somewhere. Also the drivers seat motor will not adjust unless i'm standing outside the van, if I sit on the seat it has no power and all the inside map lights decided they wanted to stop working as well, so the think I hate the most is electrical problems....I hate chasing wires, but it looks like this van will keep me busy.

 

@MoeDaMaster

I know what you mean, I have 4 motorcycles right now, but for me I am generous with the seafoam, then top off the tanks, works like a charm for me, also on my lawnmowers and snow blower. IMO, this van is a project, should be easy to fix, money wise, just labor intensive from the expected electrical stuff I see popping up....If it becomes too exhaustive for me to keep working on it, I will probably find a ford enthusiast sight and sell it to someone who would really want to put in the time.....I'd actually prefer a 74 or older Econoline, just as long as it has AC, the wife would care what we had....LOL....I still remember my 1st van, 68 E100 cargo with barn doors, had the rear bubble windows, Straight 6, 3 on the tree....all shagged up on the inside. Lost the gear on the bottom of the distributor shaft and had to leave it sit on the side of the road as I walked home to grab the car dolly and truck, was gone maybe 1 hour, The van was gone, called the cops, they hadn't towed it, none of the tow companies grabbed, Filed a police report and that was the last I ever saw or heard of it....That was 1981...Miss that van..

 

I posted this link to a 1977 conversion van some time back in a different thread and had forgotten about it till I ran across it again yesterday.

I have been wanting to convert my raised roof van into a camper van since I bought it. Over the past 3 years or so I have looked at many different designs and I keep coming back to the basic design in this van.. Simple and uncluttered..
My father built a travel van back in the 80's with a similar bed layout. A advantage is that the bed firs 2 and children or another adult can sleep on the floor. When My father and I went on a trip I would sleep on the floor and could stretch out with my feet under the center of the rear bed.

https://www.sunsetclassics.com/1977-...n-van-176.html