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Should I plug that open port on the EGR valve ? Notice the air pump has been deleted. Old spark plugs worked get to plug that hose.
I'll admit, you guy's with these nice looking trucks have got me feeling guilty...I'm afraid your going to cost me money LOL,
Took some pictures under the truck today. I'll have a few questions as to what things are. I'll post them in post below. Sorry, it's the last nice day, 59F today, snow tomorrow and again later this week, so figured I'd take some pictures and ask some questions.
Would this be a fuel filter ? Well yeah, as it turns out, this is the fuel filter, I see the elements are like $7.00. Good project for Spring time. getting snow this week...
Amazing what you can find out when you ask Google
Any thoughts on what to use to clean that area before I replace the filter element ?
Since your truck's EGR is inoperable, capping that nipple would be of no utility. You may want to look into getting it operating again. Put it on your list.
Yes, that's your high pressure fuel pump. Yes, there are pumps in each tank that produce about 3 psi pressure to move fuel to the "Dual Purpose Reservoir".
On the filter (Dual Purpose Reservoir), that cap can be very difficult to unscrew. I've used an oil filter wrench. Get a good filter like Motorcraft or Hastings. The cheaper store brands I have bought come with ill fitting o-rings. The o-ring seal is very thin and finicky. It needs some heavy lubricant to help hold it in the recess of the cap while installing. I've been lubing the cap's threads to facilitate future removal.
Clean up with Dawn and water with a tooth brush? It doesn't look that bad.
Thanks for the advice on the fuel filter. Isn't the EGR part of that air pump ?
I don't drive the truck in the winter time so warm up/cold weather is not a real concern. The fast idle works well when the truck is first started anytime of year.
I'm planning to get one of the good filters like a Wix or Hastings. I have some Vaseline in the shed to hold the o-rings in and a few different oil filter tools.
One thing I learned about small oil filters, I use a silicone hose coupler from turbo charging piping to slip over the oil filter and then grab the silicone with the wrench or just my hand.
That is the fuel reservoir/fuel filter. Looks like he only has a single tank system. The bottom of the fuel reservoir can be very difficult to get to unscrew to replace the filter.
Your EGR is a totally separate system from the air pump system (thermacter system). The EGR is Exhaust Gas Recirculation. They take exhaust gases from the exhaust manifold, and put them back into the intake of the engine. Sounds counterproductive, it is in a way for power, but it is good for emissions purposes. Apparently you have not pulled the codes on your engine, you would definitely get a EGR code. The EGR valve is made up of the valve with a position sensor on top of it, and a vacuum line that goes to one or two vacuum solenoids which control EGR from computer signals they receive. Besides the code, you may get some engine pinging on a hot day, but the computer is programmed to retard the timing a little bit when it recognizes the EGR is not working. Other than the pinging, you probably won't notice any difference in the engine performance. An EGR failure mode is when the valve doesn't close off, thus leaking exhaust into the intake at all times. This will cause the engine to idle rough and stall.
Thanks Franklin2, this EGR system was taken care of/bypassed by someone who knows these old trucks well. That was a few years ago. The truck dose not show a Emissions light.
The truck has only been driven 3500 miles in the last 10 years or so will be sitting now until the warmer weather returns in April like it has been doing since about 1997.
I have begun to build a photo file that I can reference in the future.
I did find a couple of things, electrical wires wise that should be addressed, in the center of the first photo there is that black wire, the second photo has the red wire with exposed wire.
I did replace this sensor and its connector a few years back too. Water temp gauge would act funny.
The funny thing about that temp sensor and connector was, after replacing them the water temp gauge (I did solder and use heat shrink over the solder) would still do funny things from time to time.
It wasn't until the truck wouldn't start one day, that I pulled the coil connector and found corrosion on the two blade connectors, after cleaning those, the truck started and the water temp gauge has worked fine ever since.
Here is the coil connector I cleaned with the yellow and green wire.
Thanks Franklin2, this EGR system was taken care of/bypassed by someone who knows these old trucks well.
The first gen EFI did not have a check engine light. You definitely have trouble codes. You can see what they are if you choose to pull them. Here's how to do it.
Here's a picture of the connectors that I'll need to use. FYI, those other loose spade connectors are from the trailer brake wiring that I no longer use. I also have the two circuit breakers for that set up screwed to the side of that big plastic shield for this area. You may see them in other pictures I may post someday.
Dawn is a good degreaser. Also simple green in the spray bottle full strength for grease and grime cutting. I use toothbrushes too, but have a caddy full of all types of brushes, scrubbies and sponges. Having a spray bottle of rinse water and a pan to catch it all in below.
Then from the look of the frame and the brake line showing some rust. Do your truck a favor and get some Fluid-Film and small 1" and 2" paint brushes and stop the corrosion cold. Do your entire brake lines with attention to rusty spots. When the rust is penetrated you can wash them and paint them or reapply Fluid-Film every year or three depending on salt exposure.
I'd do the entire frame and any corrosion spots. Turns rusty frames to a dark color. Almost like painted black.
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