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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 01:47 PM
  #16  
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namnguye
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Yes, it makes sense to take care of #2 anyway. I would remove it, install new set of orings and copper washer, clean carefully inside and blow off oil from all screw holes. That may just fix it.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 02:40 PM
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Originally Posted by namnguye
Yes, it makes sense to take care of #2 anyway. I would remove it, install new set of orings and copper washer, clean carefully inside and blow off oil from all screw holes. That may just fix it.
As I was going through this in my Bonehead, I'd concluded exactly this - that if it's fuel getting past an injector, it must be that copper gasket. So maybe all it needs is the gasket. If the o-rings are all oil-related (?IDK), and I don't seem to have a high oil pressure problem, and don't seem to have misfires, is it just a bad gasket? However, I expect that everyone just replaces the injector while they're in there, and of course, some techs talk them into replacing all the injectors on that side.

I'm reading the SnapOn instructions again, and the valve cover sounds really easy, if it could be called easy at all. The GPCM and bracket, CAC, air intake, dip stick, a sensor and wiring harness to get at the valve cover. No belts removed, no fluids drained, no heavy parts, no wrench bigger than the valve cover bolts.

The only problem, really, is the weather. Now, it's snowing. I'm going to go put on the filter anyway. Will update shortly.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 03:53 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
Sounds like it's trying hydro lock

Oil leval ?
It's most likely been drivin this condition before you got it

Pull the glow plug to vent
Winner Winner, chicken dinner!

Changed my filters, tried to start, and it won't turnover. I guess it hydrolocked as I pulled into the motel? Dang, I was going to do the injector out here in the parking lot, but I don't know about this.

So, I gotta pull a glow plug? Any plug, all plugs, or just #2? Then, spin the engine, and it should pump out the fuel in the cylinder(s)? What are the chances I messed anything else up? Bent push rods?

None of that sounds easy. I've been avoiding the glow plug on my other van because it's such a pain. I expect this truck's second AC compressor is going to make getting that glow plug out a real pain, and of course, the chances are that I'd break the harness and have to take all of them out. Without the AC, the procedure on that side is one GP from the top, one from the wheel well, one inside the doghouse, and I forget where the last one comes out.

Geezus, wonder what a shop would charge me for all this? I may just throw the bus back in the auction and take my loss.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 03:53 PM
  #19  
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SrMasterTech (RIP, why did you take 2 of the best 6.0 men on youtube from us?) has many videos on the econolines 6.0. You can watch them, but I think you should just start doing it. That's the hardest part. Once you get going, no one can stop you. At least that's how my body works.
The econoline has some odd stuff that I had to feel my way to removes those nuts holding some tubes/brackets down. It's very cramped in there. But I think a person experienced as you are, you won't have any problem.


DieselTechRon may have a more detailed video:

(he said only driver side mount bolt needs removed).

Driver side valve cover removal video (sorry, not econoline):

 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 04:06 PM
  #20  
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Me, "experienced," lol. Jimi, RIP, is prolly the only one who would agree. Of course, I'll try to fix anything. The issue here is being 1200 miles from home, paying motels, working outside, in the snow. And, my brother came along to drive one bus home, not sit in a cheap motel for days while I hope to fix this. I've won on a bunch of auction vehicles, but maybe this is my first loser. I would have won on this one if I hadn't tried to drive it yesterday, That guy would have let me work on it in his driveway, but I didn't want to impose. New injector, and I'd be driving home tomorrow. Now, this new hurdle is tough to overcome.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 04:18 PM
  #21  
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Well, looking at the service manual, #2 glow plug is pretty simple to get to. Actually, I would have everything off to get the injector. But, what are the chances that I, having never messed with a GP harness, could get it off #2 without breaking the harness? And then, I've read that the GPs are hard to get out too. However, since I'm also replacing the injector and would have the valve cover off, there's supposed to be a way to pry the GP out from inside the head?

And, what are the chances, that removing just that one GP would be enough to vent? I know nothing about hydrolocking, does one cylinder cause the other cylinders to hydrolock too? What does it mean if I get the GP out and the engine still doesn't turnover? The 4 and 6 GPs are a bigger pain - have to remove the exhaust manifold.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 04:22 PM
  #22  
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I see. I hate working on the road. One time, without a hammer, it took me 3 hours to loosen a nut, after I used some piece of metal I managed to find to hit on a wrench handle to loosen it up (springy hydraulic coupling that got a bit rusted). The hammer action got it right off.
Good luck. Where are you at (Minneapolis, Minnesota?)? Maybe some members here can come to help out. A good news is you can put a space heater inside the van, but ofcourse you know that.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 04:41 PM
  #23  
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Watching vids. Reading the manual. DTRon just pulled the harness off, no problem, on the vid I saw. Please let me know if this sounds like what I need to do:

1. Remove #2 Glow plug.
2. Spin engine to pump cylinder dry.
3. Remove valve cover/injector.
4. Replace injector
5. Replace GP.
Should run.

Possible failure points:

1. Removing only #2 GP doesn't provide enough vent.
2. I break the GP or GP harness.
3. Hydrolocking causes some other problem?

Just a random question: do GPs screw in? So I need a deep socket of some size? I saw DTRon remove a broken one with a drip bit and pick, but he didn't unscrew anything. It was like the GP was just stuck in there.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 04:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by namnguye
I see. I hate working on the road. One time, without a hammer, it took me 3 hours to loosen a nut, after I used some piece of metal I managed to find to hit on a wrench handle to loosen it up (springy hydraulic coupling that got a bit rusted). The hammer action got it right off.
Good luck. Where are you at (Minneapolis, Minnesota?)? Maybe some members here can come to help out. A good news is you can put a space heater inside the van, but ofcourse you know that.
Yeah, Minneapolis. It's like a Bram Stoker novel reading my stories here of being broke down on the road. This time, I have my other bus, so I'm not using Uber to go back and forth to the parts store. And I'm in a motel, so I'm not sleeping in the bus. But, it's still snowing. Although while changing the filters, I wasn't cold.

Just need to decide whether to dive in or not. What do you think of those questions I asked? I know nothing about hydrolocking and GPs. First time to work on these.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 05:00 PM
  #25  
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What you described doesn't mean a hydrolocked (yet), so no point of removing the plug. I would check #2 out, to see if the fuel breaches the seal. If it does, spin it will clear it out through the injector hole once the injector is out.
I would be very hesitate to remove the glow plug on the road. High chance of breakage. Plug the heater in may help starting it up.
The glow plug, once you pull the wiring off, it takes a deep socket, #10 or something like that. But the van is always a problem accessing it, unless you can get from the tire side.

At least for the newer model, once you take off the valve cover, you can easily push inside out to get the glow plug harness out (if you took off the injectors).
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 05:04 PM
  #26  
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Breaking the harness cap to the plug is more likely than breaking the plug. I would think?
Both would be bad news on the road.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 05:24 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by namnguye
What you described doesn't mean a hydrolocked (yet), so no point of removing the plug. I would check #2 out, to see if the fuel breaches the seal. If it does, spin it will clear it out through the injector hole once the injector is out.
I would be very hesitate to remove the glow plug on the road. High chance of breakage. Plug the heater in may help starting it up.
The glow plug, once you pull the wiring off, it takes a deep socket, #10 or something like that. But the van is always a problem accessing it, unless you can get from the tire side.

At least for the newer model, once you take off the valve cover, you can easily push inside out to get the glow plug harness out (if you took off the injectors).
OK, help me out - how do I tell if the "fuel breaches the seal"? "Check it out" does that mean pull it and try to spin the engine again? Nothing out except the injector?

Yes, I'm just assuming hydrolock because it didn't turnover. I guess the batteries could be dead, but all the lights work and fuel pump and glow plug lights. Heck, I haven't even found the batteries yet. They're not in a box on the side like my other one.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 05:26 PM
  #28  
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I had read in another thread that I would need to turn the engine over by hand - is that right? Also, I can run a cord to the engine block heater before I try to start it again to help that.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 10:29 PM
  #29  
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Any help? I gotta do this tomorrow. Now, my luck, my brother is sick. Had to go get him some meds. Fun times in the motel.

We're talking and it occurs to me that I probably haven't burned a hole in the piston if it's still able to fill up the cylinder with fuel.

Just to be clear, it's possible that I just have bad batteries. I know nothing about this truck's maintenance history before yesterday, but it seems unlikely that it's been starting just fine for the last couple of weeks for that guy that stored it for me, and then quits right after all that clacking noise.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2020 | 11:03 PM
  #30  
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Turn over by hand would help. I would check battery voltage while cranking also.
Listen for starter sound.
When you take the injector out, look at the oring, injector surface and the copper seal to see any sign of smoke going pass it.
 
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