When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Got my brake controller swapped to the new TV and the WDH/anti-sway moved over from the old camper to the new one. Hooked it up and took it for a 20 minute drive. Performed well. No issues when semi’s past or when wind would gust. I do think I will need to get a new hitch setup in the future though. Couldn’t quite get everything as level as I would like, but overall a good day.
Looks like you need to drop one hole, you possibly can get away with a slight more tilt, and that also might get you a bit better down force on the front end.
You do your adjustments stricktly with the tape measure, or have you (will you) drop by the cat scales as well? I like the scales, but I'm not convinced I get much further ahead with that method.
Although looking at the pictures I am thinking I may need to drop the hitch down a hole to drop the tongue down slightly
Originally Posted by WE3ZS
That was going to be the suggestion I was going to make.
Originally Posted by Paul Spencer
Looks like you need to drop one hole, you possibly can get away with a slight more tilt, and that also might get you a bit better down force on the front end.
Should I say it also? LOL........Nah, not necessary!
Good looking rig.
You do your adjustments stricktly with the tape measure, or have you (will you) drop by the cat scales as well? I like the scales, but I'm not convinced I get much further ahead with that method.
I have always just done it with a tape measure. There isn’t a CAT scale near me. I have stopped by the scrap yard with my last setup just to see my gross. Loaded I was just over 14k lbs.
Most folks that are careful do just fine with either method. I live close to a several cat scales, so I use those. Seems "easier" in my mind than a tape measure, although, whatever works.
I swear 50% of the folks going down the road haven't given payload, squat or Weight distribution a first thought, let alone a second, so we are all miles ahead of them.
Looks like you need to drop one hole, you possibly can get away with a slight more tilt, and that also might get you a bit better down force on the front end.
did you mean downforce on the front end of the camper or of the TV? If you mean TV, you are talking about adjusting the angle of the ball on the hitch to angle slightly away from the TV?
I would like slightly more downforce in the front of the TV. I know I can adjust the angle of the ball but have never messed with it. I wasn’t able to get the TV exactly level. I thought it was because my bars may have been a bit to small for the new trailer
did you mean downforce on the front end of the camper or of the TV? If you mean TV, you are talking about adjusting the angle of the ball on the hitch to angle slightly away from the TV?
I would like slightly more downforce in the front of the TV. I know I can adjust the angle of the ball but have never messed with it. I wasn’t able to get the TV exactly level. I thought it was because my bars may have been a bit to small for the new trailer
Yes, a bit more tilt on shank will make the bars slightly angle towards the pavement a bit more, causing a bit more tension to lift into place, causing a bit more downward force on the front end. It's an art to get it right, you are close though. If the trailer nose is a bit high, it will add to sway. If the TV front end is high, it will leave an uneasy feeling of loose front end while driving.
PS: do you know what size bars you have?
ps's: Measure the TV unloaded, front wheel well height. Try and return that to within a 1/2". Rear end might squat more than that, but the front end needs to be within 1/2" of height without trailer attached.
Yes, a bit more tilt on shank will make the bars slightly angle towards the pavement a bit more, causing a bit more tension to lift into place, causing a bit more downward force on the front end. It's an art to get it right, you are close though. If the trailer nose is a bit high, it will add to sway. If the TV front end is high, it will leave an uneasy feeling of loose front end while driving.
PS: do you know what size bars you have?
ps's: Measure the TV unloaded, front wheel well height. Try and return that to within a 1/2". Rear end might squat more than that, but the front end needs to be within 1/2" of height without trailer attached.
The bars say 1000lbs on them.
I measured from the center of the wheel to the fender front and back prior and then after hookup. Without the bars the back dropped 2.5” and the drone went up 1.5. With the way it is in the picture the front is back to where it was prior to hookup and the back is an inch lower.
I was a little worried about the sway because the tongue was a little higher, but I went by some semi’s and had some decent gusts without any sway....so I was happy about that.
did you mean downforce on the front end of the camper or of the TV? If you mean TV, you are talking about adjusting the angle of the ball on the hitch to angle slightly away from the TV?
I would like slightly more downforce in the front of the TV. I know I can adjust the angle of the ball but have never messed with it. I wasn’t able to get the TV exactly level. I thought it was because my bars may have been a bit to small for the new trailer
don’t worry about getting the tow vehicle level. Worry more about getting the front wheel well at the same height with the bars hooked up as they are unloaded. Getting the same height loaded as unloaded is your best way of knowing that the hitch is returning all the weight to the front axle.
how level the TV sits is more a function of spring rate on the rear axle and any additional cargo weight you carry in the back. Those excursions are a fair bit softer in the rear than an equivalent F250 so having more squat in the rear is to be expected.
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Slideshow: The VelociRaptor Expedition gains a lift, upgraded suspension, Brembo brakes, and trail-ready equipment while retaining the stock 440-horsepower EcoBoost V6.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.