I should be getting my oil pressure test gauge components on Monday and was wondering if I can do something to test the IPR while I’m testing oil pressure.

If I hook up the tester to the HPOP and do not put 12v of power to the IPR, I should get a low reading when cranking the engine, correct?

If I then hook up 12v to the IPR and crank the engine again and I get a good pressure reading, would that indicate that my IPR is good? (Assuming that my HPOP is good as well).

Since I can’t do anything to my truck until Monday I’m trying to figure out what I can do when the tester shows up.

cheers

 

Are you trying to isolate or deadhead the hpop?
In your question you say "hook up the tester" is that a guage? If you have no power to your ipr your icp reading would be zero.

A bluetooth dongle and app can tell you icp. Thats all you need unless you want to deadhead the pump.

I dont know what problem you are trying to diagnose a nostart?
Heres a couple of manual test if you dont have the bluetooth or a guage.
You can disconnect the hpo line from the drivers or pass head. Only disconnect one line and with a helper crank the motor briefly to see discharge amount. Mine dribbled when my hpop was bad. If the pump is good it will probably make a mess if you dont have a bucket and funnel or something.
If you are chasing a nostart and you suspect low icp is the cause you can fire 4cylinders at a time. This could indicate a injector leaking icp, or if both sides still fire could indicate a weak pump not capable of enough icp to fire all 8 injectors. I threaded a cap on the hpop line to the head i was eliminating and disconnected the 9pin connector to the same head. This all makes a mess.

 

Yes. The tester is a liquid-filled pressure gauge that I will install into the HPOP as part of my testing to diagnose a no-start condition.

Here is what I’ve done so far.

- new injector o-rings and shim kit.
- new CPS.
- new ICP (same pigtail).
- new IPR o-rings.
- oil change.
- new o-rings in HPOP.
- fuel bowl rebuild kit.
- pulled wiring harness from engine valley, stripped all loom material to inspect harness wiring.
- pin test on PCM (passed).
- pin test on IDM (passed).
- new connector at steering wheel (hazards and turn signals were not working properly).
- new connector at EBPV (old one was melted - this is the one by the back of the engine valley).
- new pigtail at IPR (used one from my old UVCH).
- new starter.
- new batteries (and new battery booster/charger as my old one failed).

Within 20k I put new glow plugs in and also put new injector o-rings in. Truck ran great after that.

I did the injector o-rings again when I did the injector shim kit.

I think that’s all I’ve done to this point. It’s been a while since I was able to start this truck (2000 7.3).

It started up once after the injector shim kit and o-rings - this was the first start after following the pre-start routine that one of the sites has - diesel o-rings site? When I shut it down to do the final install on the valve covers, intercooler pipes, etc, it wouldn’t start again.

I want to see what my oil pressure is so I can rule that out as an issue.

Also, the above list is not in the order that I did everything, I just listed them as I remembered them.

The issue appeared to start as my remote start system was failing. It has been removed and the ignition wiring was hooked back up by the local dealership. At that point I thought my issue was just the remote start and had not gotten into the second round of improvements such as injector shim kit, etc., so figured the dealership was the quickest way back on the road. I’ve learned a little about wiring since then as I’ve gotten deeper and deeper into this.

PS .... AutoEnginuity shows no reading for ICP PSI or volts while cranking. It does show ICP duty cycle at 14.84.

 

[QUOTE=cjcocn;19612149]Yes. The tester is a liquid-filled pressure gauge that I will install into the HPOP as part of my testing to diagnose a no-start condition.

Here is what I’ve done so far.

- new injector o-rings and shim kit.
- new CPS.
- new ICP (same pigtail).
- new IPR o-rings.
- oil change.
- new o-rings in HPOP.
- fuel bowl rebuild kit.
- pulled wiring harness from engine valley, stripped all loom material to inspect harness wiring.
- pin test on PCM (passed).
- pin test on IDM (passed).
- new connector at steering wheel (hazards and turn signals were not working properly).
- new connector at EBPV (old one was melted - this is the one by the back of the engine valley).
- new pigtail at IPR (used one from my old UVCH).
- new starter.
- new batteries (and new battery booster/charger as my old one failed).

Within 20k I put new glow plugs in and also put new injector o-rings in. Truck ran great after that.

I did the injector o-rings again when I did the injector shim kit.

I think that’s all I’ve done to this point. It’s been a while since I was able to start this truck (2000 7.3).

It started up once after the injector shim kit and o-rings - this was the first start after following the pre-start routine that one of the sites has - diesel o-rings site? When I shut it down to do the final install on the valve covers, intercooler pipes, etc, it wouldn’t start again.

I want to see what my oil pressure is so I can rule that out as an issue.

Also, the above list is not in the order that I did everything, I just listed them as I remembered them.

The issue appeared to start as my remote start system was failing. It has been removed and the ignition wiring was hooked back up by the local dealership. At that point I thought my issue was just the remote start and had not gotten into the second round of improvements such as injector shim kit, etc., so figured the dealership was the quickest way back on the road. I’ve learned a little about wiring since then as I’ve gotten deeper and deeper into this.

PS .... AutoEnginuity shows no reading for ICP PSI or volts while cranking. It does show ICP duty cycle at 14.84.[/QUOTE

Does the DC% change at all? 14.84 is just the standard reading with KOEO, it should start to climb while cranking if no start. Is the hpop res full, and stays full? Have you run any of the self tests with AE? Any codes pop up? Done a buzz test yet? Checked the 42 pin at the drivers VC? Actually that's the first thing I'd check. With no ICP voltage you most likely have a short or bad connection to the PCM. Any other sensors reading 0 with the key on?

 

Unhook the ICP sensor. PCM will default to a value that will let the truck run. Check for oil contamination in the ICP sensor harness, contact/brake clean will help there.

 

The DC% doesn’t change at all while cranking.

HPOP is full and stays full.

I’ll post a pic of the codes.

Buzz test passed.

KOEO engine test passed.

Checked the 42 pin and it passed.

The sensors I checked with AE stay at 0. I’ll post a pic.

 

Tried it with the ICP unhooked. No change.

When I changed the ICP I cleaned the connector with non-electrical contact point cleaner.

 

Those codes mean the PCM it's receiving a signal from those sensors. If it was 1 I'd say the sensor or plug was bad, but 4 tells me it is likely something with the 42 pin or PCM. Since it ran then you reinstalled valve covers and intercooler piping, most likely something with the 42 pin or harness. Could be a bad ground wire in the plug. If the plug is installed and snugged up properly then I would start opening up the harness looking for bad wiring, also checking continuity from the plug to the sensors that are giving codes.

 

Thanks for the info.

I’ll have another look at the 42 pin connector and see if I can find out why I’m getting those codes.

cheers

 

Pulled the engine harness and it all checks out as far as continuity.

Going to install it and figure out my next steps.

Maybe call it a day and wait for the oil pressure gauge to show up tomorrow. The place I ordered the components from will crimp the fittings onto the hose and I can put the rest of it together.

 

Does both sides of the 42 pin look ok, no burn marks or pools of melted goo? How about fuses, made sure nothing is blown there? Oh yeah, the fuel bowl heater is prone to shorting out and causing problems also. Most people just leave it unplugged to avoid any hassle.

 

I inspected the 42 pin for burn marks and wiggled each wire individually to see if any were loose (in case it was melted inside the connector where I couldn’t see it. It all checks out as good.

Fuses and relays are all good.

The fuel bowl heater was unplugged by the PO. I plugged it back in but maybe I’ll unplug it again this morning to see if it changes anything.

I’ll finish reinstalling the engine valley harness this morning and see if the truck will start. When I unplugged the CPS it seemed to come off too easily - as if it wasn’t fully seated. I reinstalled it and I think it came off just as easily the second time.

I should be able to post an update later this morning. I usually head to the garage at about 5:30 am.

cheers

 

Update:

Wiring harness was installed and my no-start condition persists.

ICP duty cycle does not change while cranking.

Battery voltage drops to 9.3 volts while cranking. Poor battery cables? Batteries are back on the charger and we’re recently tested at a local parts place. They both passed easily as they were both replaced after my no-start condition showed up.

AE and instrument cluster do not show any engine RPMs while cranking. Swapped out the CPS twice as I have two spares. Still no RPMs shown on either AE or instrument cluster.

Going to let the batteries charge and I’m headed home to relax and contemplate my next move.

Might look for some new battery cables and see if I can find some heavy duty ones. If I can’t I’ll make my own. There are a few threads around on making battery cables for the 7.3.

Thanks.

 

How quickly are the batteries dropping that low? PCM needs about 10.5 to even function. The cables can be purchased, but they are pricey. I believe most make their own with welding cable and copper lugs, I did anyway.

Is there a chip in this truck by chance, if so I'd remove it till you get things figured out. I was looking at the engine wiring diagram a little this morning trying to look for a common thread between the sensors giving codes. There's definitely some overlap, just hard to trace everything around print while zoomed in enough to read it.

 

Charged the batteries overnight and they were reading 10.3 volts while cranking this morning.

I will read up on the possibility of making my own cables and is probably the way I’ll go.

No chip in the truck.

Im headed to the office this morning to download a manual and will have even more reading material after that (just downloaded a bunch last night).

cheers