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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

56 F-100 Chassis

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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 11:58 AM
  #1  
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56 F-100 Chassis

Looking for ideas on my upcoming 56 F-100 build. The truck's been in the family since 1961, originally was a 6, but placed a 283 Chevy with 3 speed manual in it in 74 and replaced with a 327 about 10 years after that. In rough shape even though it's been garage kept since about 86. Looking at chassis' from TCI, Fat Man and BSI. Trying to decide on suspension, Shock Wave Air or coil overs. Also trying to decide on the power train in so far of engine and transmission, but all Ford.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 12:27 PM
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I'm curious what you consider rough shape, was the truck ever restored prior to being garaged? It sounds similar to what I'm working with, also garaged since 1986. Mostly needing clean up and then rebuilding parts that deteriorate from age regardless of use. Plus, reworking stuff that should have been done better the first time. But yes, the dirt and grime are much more than I thought could possibly occur from just sitting in an enclosed garage.

Regarding your questions, these are my thoughts below, but it is your truck and ultimately your decision:

In my opinion use a Ford powertrain in a Ford car or truck, no question or grey area there. If you want late model technology use a 5.0 Coyote or some other performance modular motor Ford offered. If you want an older pushrod type V8 motor use at least a 351W. Don't go smaller with a 302. The 351W will make much more power and in a stock or performance build. As far as 351W motors, look for something in a 1995 or newer F150 simply because those blocks are OEM hydraulic roller lifter compatible. I think those blocks have casting numbers beginning with F4. The older 1969 and 1970 blocks are stronger but you loose the OEM hydraulic roller lifter compatibility and the deck height is a little shorter so there are fewer pistons available for them.

I don't know much about suspensions except air ride stuff seems a little gimmicky to me, I think I choose a coil over setup instead.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 12:28 PM
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If you want a modern powertrain a coyote is the obvious answer. On a potentially simpler note I would look at a 351 (my own has a 302, was in when I got it) where you can run a carb and minimal wiring, and no computer. If you want a fun oddball find a 3.5 ecoboost, huge power potential
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 12:50 PM
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Welcome . Tell us more about yourself and your truck . We like pictures . You first need to make a plan on what you are going to expect from the truck . Long hauler , show , around town Sundays , daily driver or a combination . Then comes budget , tools , time and abilities . Full frames are very nice and very expensive and a cruise around this site will reveal the installation of a " very " wide range of drivelines . Did I mention we like pictures ?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 01:46 PM
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Keith, welcome to FTE the best Ford truck forum on the World wide Web!
​​​​​​My first question is, what's wrong with the original chassis?
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 04:22 PM
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Thanks for the input fella's. I'll get some photos up, just need to either find some or take a few with my phone. So the truck will not be a daily driver, just a nice day driver and an occasional local East TN truck show. When I say rough, I mean there is a lot of fabrication needed in the normal places you expect rust as the truck was never garage kept until it was 35 years old. Since it was my fathers I really want to try and maintain as much of the sheet metal as possible and purchase or fabricate the areas that need repair. The trucks been painted 3 times since the original light green that came on it. Back in the early 60's when it was repainted first to a two tone, a lot of bondo was used along with a product called Alum-a-lead to fill in places. When a buddy and I repainted the two tone paint in the mid 70's we glassed in some of the bad rot around the cab, doors etc., especially the drip rail, actually the last paint job in 86, we had to recreate the drip rail as best we could. On that paint job we were just trying to stop the cancer as best we could and protect it for the future. I'm looking to keep the truck somewhat original without the badges, lowered, tubbed with a modern drive that tracks extremely well and has plenty of horse power for quick acceleration. I want the interior to maintain a lot of the original lines, but be modern and comfortable. This truck will continue to live in our family and be passed down. I've waited 35 years to build this truck and I've had a vision that I have seen come to life with Bodie Stroud's 56. It is as close to the vision I've had for a long time that I've seen thus far. I will not be doing the build, just overseeing it and will have a builder near me in East TN do the truck so I can see it come to life. Just can't decide on a frame builder, the type of suspension to put on the front and rear and ultimately, the engine and transmission package. I am leaning to the Coyote Gen 3 5.0 coupled with the 6R80W transmission. The only draw back is there doesn't seem to be a lot of dress up for the Coyote engine. but I'm just getting started too.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Keith Shiver
Thanks for the input fella's. I'll get some photos up, just need to either find some or take a few with my phone. So the truck will not be a daily driver, just a nice day driver and an occasional local East TN truck show. When I say rough, I mean there is a lot of fabrication needed in the normal places you expect rust as the truck was never garage kept until it was 35 years old. Since it was my fathers I really want to try and maintain as much of the sheet metal as possible and purchase or fabricate the areas that need repair. The trucks been painted 3 times since the original light green that came on it. Back in the early 60's when it was repainted first to a two tone, a lot of bondo was used along with a product called Alum-a-lead to fill in places. When a buddy and I repainted the two tone paint in the mid 70's we glassed in some of the bad rot around the cab, doors etc., especially the drip rail, actually the last paint job in 86, we had to recreate the drip rail as best we could. On that paint job we were just trying to stop the cancer as best we could and protect it for the future. I'm looking to keep the truck somewhat original without the badges, lowered, tubbed with a modern drive that tracks extremely well and has plenty of horse power for quick acceleration. I want the interior to maintain a lot of the original lines, but be modern and comfortable. This truck will continue to live in our family and be passed down. I've waited 35 years to build this truck and I've had a vision that I have seen come to life with Bodie Stroud's 56. It is as close to the vision I've had for a long time that I've seen thus far. I will not be doing the build, just overseeing it and will have a builder near me in East TN do the truck so I can see it come to life. Just can't decide on a frame builder, the type of suspension to put on the front and rear and ultimately, the engine and transmission package. I am leaning to the Coyote Gen 3 5.0 coupled with the 6R80W transmission. The only draw back is there doesn't seem to be a lot of dress up for the Coyote engine. but I'm just getting started too.
I'm confused. With your current plans mentioned above, it ain't gonna be like your father's truck... somewhat original but without badges and lowered and tubbed with fat tires??? That is not "somewhat original"

Now don't get me wrong, it sounds like you have had a plan or a dream in your head for years so don't let me get in your way of pursuing your truck dreams. And of course, "it's your truck, you can do with it what you want." Good luck.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 06:38 PM
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Best of luck with it. It is far from original, much farther from original than I prefer. I do like the Ford Coyote idea for a late model engine if it's not going to be an original truck. I wouldn't let "engine dress up options" determine what to use. In my opinion, "engine dress up" is often used to cover up sloppy work. Nice work doesn't need "dress up". I don't know about making a truck track well (I guess that means handle well in corners). A car is more suited for that type of driving than a truck. It's yours to build as you wish, best of luck.
 
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Old Nov 30, 2020 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Keith Shiver
Thanks for the input fella's. I'll get some photos up, just need to either find some or take a few with my phone. So the truck will not be a daily driver, just a nice day driver and an occasional local East TN truck show. When I say rough, I mean there is a lot of fabrication needed in the normal places you expect rust as the truck was never garage kept until it was 35 years old. Since it was my fathers I really want to try and maintain as much of the sheet metal as possible and purchase or fabricate the areas that need repair. The trucks been painted 3 times since the original light green that came on it. Back in the early 60's when it was repainted first to a two tone, a lot of bondo was used along with a product called Alum-a-lead to fill in places. When a buddy and I repainted the two tone paint in the mid 70's we glassed in some of the bad rot around the cab, doors etc., especially the drip rail, actually the last paint job in 86, we had to recreate the drip rail as best we could. On that paint job we were just trying to stop the cancer as best we could and protect it for the future. I'm looking to keep the truck somewhat original without the badges, lowered, tubbed with a modern drive that tracks extremely well and has plenty of horse power for quick acceleration. I want the interior to maintain a lot of the original lines, but be modern and comfortable. This truck will continue to live in our family and be passed down. I've waited 35 years to build this truck and I've had a vision that I have seen come to life with Bodie Stroud's 56. It is as close to the vision I've had for a long time that I've seen thus far. I will not be doing the build, just overseeing it and will have a builder near me in East TN do the truck so I can see it come to life. Just can't decide on a frame builder, the type of suspension to put on the front and rear and ultimately, the engine and transmission package. I am leaning to the Coyote Gen 3 5.0 coupled with the 6R80W transmission. The only draw back is there doesn't seem to be a lot of dress up for the Coyote engine. but I'm just getting started too.

Hello Keith. You mention East TN. Is that Southeast or Northeast. Are you near Morristown, Knoxville, Kingston, Dandridge or are you near Chattanooga, Dayton, Cleveland area? Scott's Hot Rod Shop and No Limit are both there in the Knoxville, Dandridge area. They both build quality frames. Even if you dont buy you can pick their brains and see what you think you might want. I use to live in Powell, TN, northern suburb of Knoxville. I still have some F100 friends there in Northeast-East central TN. Let me know if I can help in anyway.
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Keith Shiver
I will not be doing the build, just overseeing it and will have a builder near me in East TN do the truck so I can see it come to life. .
Let the builder, choose the frame that he wants to work with, makes them happy and your life easier. Get a package deal, it will be cheaper. Resist the temptation to micro-manage.

Originally Posted by 1956_F100
Don't go smaller with a 302.
Really ? That will be bad news for the thousands of F100's that have one now !
 
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Old Dec 1, 2020 | 10:12 AM
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I'm just not a fan of a Ford 302 pushrod motor. Nothing wrong with it, just too small, no low and mid range torque compared to larger cubic inch motors. They can be stroked to 331, 342, 347, and 363 cubic inches. But then the 351W can be stroked to 393, 408, and 427 cubic inches. People that switch from a 302 to a 351W based motor notice a huge performance improvement. 302 motors often get used because there are a lot of them out there, like small block Chevrolet motors and now the LS series motors.
 
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