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I agree... They probably do not look exactly like your glow plugs. That's not the point here... The point is are you certain each of your glow plugs are getting hot?
I agree mine were not as fat and a little longer. Does anyone have a good diagram I could follow? It's hard to understand exactly what works best and I have a stancor relay and it's kinda throwing me off a bit going off the original relay set up. Looks like there are many ways of doing this and of anyone has done this on a stancor relay that would be best.
I agree... They probably do not look exactly like your glow plugs. That's not the point here... The point is are you certain each of your glow plugs are getting hot?
Hobo
Before I put the glow plugs in i used the volt meter to check the resistance and they all tested 1.2 oms exactly. The problem right now is the GPR isn't getting power from the wires leading to the glow plugs themselves with the key on. Meaning my PCM isn't grounding that terminal on the GPR and my glow plugs are not getting hot or warming up at all.
by chance is the truck tuned? aside form a broken wire not passing the signal to the glowplug relay maybe there is a programming issue with the ECM.
reason i ask is my truck a California (glow plug control module, not relay like federal trucks) version and when i bought it a friend put an 80hp flash tune on my truck, now at the time i lived in SoCal never had "cold" mornings. was working a job in the mountains and it got to 10* one night with snow. at 5am it was a real bugger to start, ever since the "flash" i had a fault for GPCM. anyways long story short the "flash" tune was for federal trucks and was not switching on my glow plugs. in the time of trying to figure all this out, i had a falling out with the "friend" and couldn't return my truck to stock as i never had the handheld device to re-program the truck. was able to get in contact with a ford master tech and he re-programed my ECM back to stock. magically my glow plugs begain to work.
Before I put the glow plugs in i used the volt meter to check the resistance and they all tested 1.2 oms exactly. The problem right now is the GPR isn't getting power from the wires leading to the glow plugs themselves with the key on. Meaning my PCM isn't grounding that terminal on the GPR and my glow plugs are not getting hot or warming up at all.
Not necessarily, it is possible to get a bad relay out of the box. And, no offense intended, are you sure the relay is wired correctly? Did you try removing the ground lead to the PCM and grounding that lug yet and see if helps? If you apply ground to that lug and the relay works, then you have an issue with the PCM or a broken wire leading to it.
by chance is the truck tuned?
side note: where in Colorado are ya?
From what I can tell or heard the truck has not been tuned. I've only had the truck for 2 months and the previous owner never said anything about having the truck tuned or it having a chip. He bought the truck from a dealer in New Mexico and had it brought here right before the whole covid thing started.
I am an hour away from Limon if you know where that is, In a town called Deertrail. East plains of Colorado.
Not necessarily, it is possible to get a bad relay out of the box. And, no offense intended, are you sure the relay is wired correctly? Did you try removing the ground lead to the PCM and grounding that lug yet and see if helps? If you apply ground to that lug and the relay works, then you have an issue with the PCM or a broken wire leading to it.
No offense taken. I have watched many videos on the stancor really just to double check if the wiring is correct and it is all good. I will check to see if putting it on the negative will work once I get back home. I've also got a 97 7.3 with the stancor relay and while the key was on the terminal that mine isn't powering was on that one so I switched them out to see if it was the relay and still got the same result.
Are you running 5W-40 synthetic oil? My '01 was very ouchy about running (even at 30F) with regular dino oil. I run Rotella T6 and it's much happier about starting at low temps. That may not be the root cause of your no-start, but for many people, synthetic 5W-40 is a must-have during Colorado winters.
Are you running 5W-40 synthetic oil? My '01 was very ouchy about running (even at 30F) with regular dino oil. I run Rotella T6 and it's much happier about starting at low temps. That may not be the root cause of your no-start, but for many people, synthetic 5W-40 is a must-have during Colorado winters.
First thing I did on the truck was change the oil to 5w-40 thought that would be the cause of it.
I've never been a fan of simple processes that have been over-engineered into a plethora of automated failure prone semiconductors. A momentary toggle switch and indicator light for me. As someone above suggested, a manual hardwired config works well.
So I put in the switch to the relay and it worked. But now I got a big problem. I was warming it up and then all of a sudden the truck turns off and I go to start it again and the battery is dead. So here's how I hooked it up I took the negative from the PCM that should look like a orange wire and covered it with electrical tape. Then took new wire from that terminal to one post on the dash then with the other post wired it up to the negative on the battery.
