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Old Nov 26, 2020 | 08:23 PM
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Solid motor mount vibration

Hello! New to posting but I've been lurking for a while and this forum is a great resource.

Unfortunately my 79 f150 4x4 with a 460 swap recently had a catastrophic failure and its time to rebuild everything.

My question is about solid vs rubber motor mounts. Seeing as the cab is isolated from the chassis by rubber mounts and the steering wheel is isolated by the rag joint, will solid mounts actually make a noticeable uncomfortable difference while driving?
 
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Old Nov 26, 2020 | 10:47 PM
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I would think it would be at least slightly noticeable. But probably not the end of the world.
But why bother? You making a drag truck or mud-bogger out of it? The original style mounts were usually very robust and could last 100,000 miles and often way more, before needing any attention.
And they are safety type mounts anyway, with metal studs, or interlocks to keep the engine in place in case the rubber did ever give way. Usually after much soaking in oils and chemicals and old age.

Not sure I've even seen solid mounts before. Got a link to pics of them?
And what was the catastrophic failure? Sorry to hear you had one, but very curious what it was.

Paul
 
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Old Nov 26, 2020 | 10:58 PM
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Solid mounts lead to broken parts. Put the regular ones in there so things can flex without breaking.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 12:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
I would think it would be at least slightly noticeable. But probably not the end of the world.
But why bother? You making a drag truck or mud-bogger out of it? The original style mounts were usually very robust and could last 100,000 miles and often way more, before needing any attention.
And they are safety type mounts anyway, with metal studs, or interlocks to keep the engine in place in case the rubber did ever give way. Usually after much soaking in oils and chemicals and old age.

Not sure I've even seen solid mounts before. Got a link to pics of them?
And what was the catastrophic failure? Sorry to hear you had one, but very curious what it was.

Paul
The reason for solid mounts would be cost. They're half the cost of rubber. Due to the 460 swap I need to use special mounts meant for that swap or I have to change out the towers and mounts, but I don't know how that affects the other components of the drive train.

My catastropic failure was that the trans extension housing between the c6 and the np205 exploded while on the highway. One of the motor mounts tore and my driveline broke at the u joint and fell off the bottom of the truck. I'm sure the guy behind me was scared haha. Not exactly sure what caused all that but everything not broken still seems to move freely and work properly. At the very least I will be rebuilding trans (for the second time), replacing motor mounts and u joints, and ripping the axels apart just to make sure nothing locked up and broke in there. Engine turns over fine but i haven't had it running for obviously reasons.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 07:54 AM
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In my dirt track days we ran solid engine mounts, but always with a poly trans mount or things would break. I think it would be the same on the street
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 08:29 AM
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Originally Posted by symonds86
In my dirt track days we ran solid engine mounts, but always with a poly trans mount or things would break. I think it would be the same on the street
How bad was the vibration? Im sure you didn't feel it much on track but how did it feel at idle or if you ever had it on a smooth surface?
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 09:21 AM
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If cost is the leading factor, go with rubber b/c you'll spend less in the long run. Racers use engine plates and solid mounts in conjunction with roll cages that significantly reduce flex and consequent damage.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 10:21 AM
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I often wonder how much load the mounts on a block can take from a little twist in the frame and engine torque. I bought some replacement engine mounts once that were cheap chna crap, they were so solid and vibration was bad. Had to replace again with OEM and vibration gone.
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Jnr96
How bad was the vibration? Im sure you didn't feel it much on track but how did it feel at idle or if you ever had it on a smooth surface?
It vibrated quite a bit but it was a street stock so stock body but no body mounts a 6 point cage and aluminum seat mounted directiallt to the cage
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by symonds86
It vibrated quite a bit but it was a street stock so stock body but no body mounts a 6 point cage and aluminum seat mounted directiallt to the cage
Haha well that sounds like it would rattle your bones either way
 
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Old Nov 27, 2020 | 08:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Jnr96
Haha well that sounds like it would rattle your bones either way
yea was one of those built for speed not comfort deals those were good times though. Maybe a good quality rubber or poly mount would be a good fit for you
 
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Old Nov 28, 2020 | 09:23 PM
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Follow up question for you guys... if I go with the rubber mounts, are there any headers under $400 that will fit the 460 swap with 4x4 and not require me to modify the rubber mounts? (Cheapest I see so far are like $580)

Any suggestions for a quality rubber mount that won't just tear?
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 01:27 AM
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I'm not sure. Is L&L still the only game in town, or are there others now?
And why would you have to modify the mounts to use headers? Is clearance at such a premium with the 460 in there?

And speaking of mounts... I just caught (again) the fact that your original mount tore. Did it separate completely, or did it have a metal interlock to keep it from separating?
Most modern mounts are supposed to be made with that safety interlock so that you don't have things tearing themselves apart. Been kind of a thing since the late sixties. So I figured by now they all had them. Maybe not...

Paul
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by 1TonBasecamp
I'm not sure. Is L&L still the only game in town, or are there others now?
And why would you have to modify the mounts to use headers? Is clearance at such a premium with the 460 in there?

And speaking of mounts... I just caught (again) the fact that your original mount tore. Did it separate completely, or did it have a metal interlock to keep it from separating?
Most modern mounts are supposed to be made with that safety interlock so that you don't have things tearing themselves apart. Been kind of a thing since the late sixties. So I figured by now they all had them. Maybe not...

Paul
Complete tear, no safety interlock. And YES clearance is a rare treasure between the frame and the 460. My current (torn) mount is the l and l rubber mount. That's why I was considering a solid mount. Hard to tear steel... but apparently that causes other issues I don't want to deal with
 
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Old Nov 29, 2020 | 10:16 AM
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You might check with Bronco graveyard. They have a mount 20990. I have never used them as I've never did the swap but looks promising.
 
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