Figured it out- I think
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2020
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Figured it out- I think
This has to be the issue. Put the 2nd PCM in. Idles correctly but still idling rough. Distributor was making a weird knocking sound. Pulled the distributor and wow I can’t believe it was even running.
shaft moves about 1/4” up and down and 1/4” side to side.
why did Ford design these to be so faulty? I’ve never seen a distributor with this much play
I see the bottom of the distributor has a hex to it, does it matter where I stick it back in? I figure not.
shaft moves about 1/4” up and down and 1/4” side to side.
why did Ford design these to be so faulty? I’ve never seen a distributor with this much play
I see the bottom of the distributor has a hex to it, does it matter where I stick it back in? I figure not.
Cargo Master
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,118
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From: South Dakota
Yes it matters. you have to have it in correct so the ignition will be in time.
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Freshman User
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ummm. Okay
how do you verify that then? I’m familiar with Chevys, they have a (-) in the bottom of the distributor shaft that goes into the oil pump, and whether you put it one way or the other it doesn’t matter. It just spins the oil pump. Why would it matter here? So you’re saying it goes in one of six possible ways? Hex being six flats.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 1,926
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From: Saskatchewan Canada
The hex is the oil pump drive. Absolutely critical that it must be engaged, but no timing associated with it. Exactly like the slot on your SBC. Rotor must be aligned the same way it was when you took the distributor out, assuming you have not cranked the engine. Otherwise, find TDC on #1 and install with the rotor pointing to #1 spark plug wire. Make sure you are on the top of the compression stroke as your distributor completes 1 turn for every 2 of the crankshaft.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
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I’m sorry but WHAT?? How can you say it is a faulty design? The thing was still running even though it is completely worn out. How old is the distributor? How many miles / hours running? Bushings do eventually wear out.
I’m sure you are already aware that hex engages the oil pump drive shaft. No that doesn’t matter but the rotor position does so you can’t just drop in the new distributor just anywhere.
What vehicle are you working on?
I’m sure you are already aware that hex engages the oil pump drive shaft. No that doesn’t matter but the rotor position does so you can’t just drop in the new distributor just anywhere.
What vehicle are you working on?
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Ok phew that’s what I thought. I guess 88n94 didn’t understand what I meant. Yea gonna drop new dizzy in matching where the old one was.
well, it was a bad design because it’s in a van, so it was tough to get it out. I guess you’re right it lasted so long. It’s definitely original so I see your point.
just never seen one with that much play. But again yes it was somehow running
anyways, thanks guys I just wanted to make sure it didn’t have to be timed to the pump. Appreciate it. Will let you know how it goes
well, it was a bad design because it’s in a van, so it was tough to get it out. I guess you’re right it lasted so long. It’s definitely original so I see your point.
just never seen one with that much play. But again yes it was somehow running
anyways, thanks guys I just wanted to make sure it didn’t have to be timed to the pump. Appreciate it. Will let you know how it goes
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,900
Likes: 2,450
Ok. If it was a Chevy van you could pull the doghouse and it would be right there. On the other hand if it was in a car or truck your Chevy distributor would be waaaay in the back by the firewall where the Ford distributor is right up front.
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Freshman User
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yes correct so it’s a 50/50 thing. All good. Just been having nightmares about this van. Just been one problem after the next. The broken distributor was blatantly obvious causing an issue so hopefully this will be it.
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Freshman User
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Still not fixed urrrgh
Hello everyone. So the new distributor came in, got one that was totally complete. Put it in and the struck started right up. But here we go again. Soon as the throttle is pressed it dies. If I stay on the throttle i can keep the engine running, but soon as I let off the throttle it dies.
ive seen some people mention the CTS on these engines will cause a stumble of it fails. Will it run in a limo mode if you unplug it? I believe that’s the sensor to the left of the distributor if looking at the engine from the front?
ive seen some people mention the CTS on these engines will cause a stumble of it fails. Will it run in a limo mode if you unplug it? I believe that’s the sensor to the left of the distributor if looking at the engine from the front?
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Ok so I figured let’s try it.
I unplugged the CTS and started it. Started right up, and guess what??
I CAN REV IT ALL I WANT AND IT DOESNT DIE!!!
so now just gonna throw the timing light on it and set that correctly.
I know it’s supposed to be 10 degrees BTDC with the SPOUT removed. What should timing be with the SPOUT installed??
I unplugged the CTS and started it. Started right up, and guess what??
I CAN REV IT ALL I WANT AND IT DOESNT DIE!!!
so now just gonna throw the timing light on it and set that correctly.
I know it’s supposed to be 10 degrees BTDC with the SPOUT removed. What should timing be with the SPOUT installed??
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Ok so it’s running good and timed correctly.
did the timing with the CTS unplugged. I plugged in the spout while running timing came up to about 18 degrees then settled down to about 15 degrees.
soon as I plugged the CTS back in while running, engine started to run rough. Touched throttle and it died. So I’m definitely gonna have to replace that because without a coolant temp reading I’m sure the computer will be confused.
just wanna clarify, what the correct timing should be with the spout connected, and do all these motors make a “whooshing” sound when on the throttle? Like I can hear through the intake. I know an engine is like a big air pump, but every other engine I’ve ever worked on you don’t hear that. There could be other things at play I’m sure, but for now I’m happy it’s finally running somewhat correctly.
did the timing with the CTS unplugged. I plugged in the spout while running timing came up to about 18 degrees then settled down to about 15 degrees.
soon as I plugged the CTS back in while running, engine started to run rough. Touched throttle and it died. So I’m definitely gonna have to replace that because without a coolant temp reading I’m sure the computer will be confused.
just wanna clarify, what the correct timing should be with the spout connected, and do all these motors make a “whooshing” sound when on the throttle? Like I can hear through the intake. I know an engine is like a big air pump, but every other engine I’ve ever worked on you don’t hear that. There could be other things at play I’m sure, but for now I’m happy it’s finally running somewhat correctly.
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
Ok so it’s running good and timed correctly.
did the timing with the CTS unplugged. I plugged in the spout while running timing came up to about 18 degrees then settled down to about 15 degrees.
soon as I plugged the CTS back in while running, engine started to run rough. Touched throttle and it died. So I’m definitely gonna have to replace that because without a coolant temp reading I’m sure the computer will be confused.
just wanna clarify, what the correct timing should be with the spout connected, and do all these motors make a “whooshing” sound when on the throttle? Like I can hear through the intake. I know an engine is like a big air pump, but every other engine I’ve ever worked on you don’t hear that. There could be other things at play I’m sure, but for now I’m happy it’s finally running somewhat correctly.
did the timing with the CTS unplugged. I plugged in the spout while running timing came up to about 18 degrees then settled down to about 15 degrees.
soon as I plugged the CTS back in while running, engine started to run rough. Touched throttle and it died. So I’m definitely gonna have to replace that because without a coolant temp reading I’m sure the computer will be confused.
just wanna clarify, what the correct timing should be with the spout connected, and do all these motors make a “whooshing” sound when on the throttle? Like I can hear through the intake. I know an engine is like a big air pump, but every other engine I’ve ever worked on you don’t hear that. There could be other things at play I’m sure, but for now I’m happy it’s finally running somewhat correctly.
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Freshman User
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When they spout is unplugged the truck is running timing with out the computer. You are setting the base timing. When you plug the spout back in the PCM is dictating the timing based on parameters so it will be in a lot of different places depending on conditions. In other words once you set the base timing the computer takes total control. Sandy
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 6,185
Likes: 633
From: Houston/Sugar Land
Certainly not doubting that it could be the other way around, just my experience. Also EllieMae I used TheRightStutt as you suggested on my last intake install and it's working great. Thanks 👍