Here is the truck i picked up a couple years ago. I am hoping to build it into my forever truck. Key word: hoping.

I bought this truck as a running project, it is not my daily driver
$3800
307k miles (now has 315k listed
4x4
auto
6" lift
it came with 37" tires on 22 inch rims. no spacers. i have since put a used set on it using 35" tires on 20" rims with 1.5 inch spacers on each
it was running fine, just has no power as if it were in limp mode. it was short about 2 gallons of oil. yes...gallons.

added oil and it ran fine, however it still needed a lot of work. i took it to a mechanic a couple days after i got it to have it checked out, since i have no experience working on diesels (not a lot on cars in general)
i had them do a an engine flush first thing and had a compression test done to see if this truck was worth keeping it or not.
compression test was good i think, had range of 405-410 per.
other things i had them do:
new glow plugs, harness, relay
fuel bowl (old was cracked)
fuel pump (also cracked)
new fuel lines and o rings in the valley (it was leaking a decent amount of fuel)
icp sensor

since then i have replaced

-the ICP sensor twice (connections are to addressed, i know they look bad in picture, i assure you that the connection is solid)
i am not sure what cause them to go.
first one replaced took a crap when i drove the truck from CO to TX (950 miles) along with the CPS, didnt think they were related, but codes were thrown and i had to replace cps while on the road with NAPA one which got me the remaining 150 miles to my destination before crapping out
2nd one went out within 1500 miles of the first one. havent really had it on the road much since

-CPS twice (motorcraft) not sure if the first one was bad, but a new one made it start so...

-oil cooler

-VSS




The truck has a couple small leaks, one is the dipstick which is common the other i am not 100% sure on, mechanic said pan gasket, but i think it is higher up. i have had the truck in the garage for a couple weeks now and there is maybe 4-5 drips. still getting fluid coming down through flywheel cover, im pretty sure its oil, not fuel, but my valley is a little damp still so maybe.
powersteering looks like it has been leaking a long time, but i havent really needed to add any fluid since i bought it. steering shaft is also shot and im sure the box is as well. big wheels kill these things

the center link or inner tie rods are shot. im not sure if my pitman arm is stock or if it is the correct size for the lift, i plan on replacing tie rods this week, but if the pitman isnt the right size then i will need to address that as well.

i would like some new shocks, maybe something a little stronger

i do not plan to make this truck pretty i just want it to be a tank

supposedly the transmission was replaced 2500 miles before i bought it, along with the front driveshaft. Not too sure about the transmission, but the driveshaft had a label on it from a local shop and it looked new. transmission looks like it has a long time leak, i do have 1 drop on the garage floor.


the only other 7.3 ive driven has been my dads super duty, his truck has a lot more get up and go then my truck. Dont know if mine is a slug or his being a super duty with better fuel delivery and transmission is the big difference.

mine has some suspected wiring/connection issues with the PSOM, my odometer will go dead while im driving for a second, then i smack the dash and it comes back. another possibly related issue is i can no longer use forscan while the engine is running, as soon as it connects the truck shuts off, however can still read codes The PSOM was never calibrated to the wheel size on this truck, so the shift points were a little funky and i am not sure the actual mileage is, i do believe it is still in the 300k and hasnt rolled over yet, but i could be wrong. PSOM is now calibrated however





driver front




i need to attach the exhaust pipe, strap broke while driving and i used what i had on me to fix it

 

Good looking truck!

 

That is a super nice looking truck! Nice garage there too.

 

Nice truck. I like the simple approach to the air filter. If its a K&N it needs to go. The filtration lets too much crap in. A standard 4" flex boot and a chunk of 45* bend 4" tubing and a riff raff 6637 and you're all set. DIY Tymar on a budget

 

Nice work. Following along. Check out @Khan and his truck. He has done some nice work too.

 

I agree with all these guys, very solid looking truck. Not much rust I can see, and honestly that many drips after two weeks really isn't that bad... as long as oil was at the correct level.

Lack of power might be a boost leak? you can make a pretty cheap boost leak tester with some PVC and an air compressor.

 

I am currently tracking down a clunking noise when I turn, it makes the clunk when I turn from 1 direction to the other. I replaced inner and outer tie rods, which were definitely needed, but I feel the clunking has gotten worse. When I had the wheels off the ground, I didn't have much movement up and down. Its been difficult to track down by myself. I was planning on replacing ball joints and u joints for maintenance purposes but I'm not sure that is what is making the noise.

Here is what I know

When hubs are unlocked, I can free spin the u joints, but the is a little grinding noise which isn't consistent with the clunk

I know my steering box has seen better days, along with steering shaft, but I do not the the clunk while stopped, only while moving

I am not sure if my pitman arm is stock or not, I dont really have anything to compare it to, but since the truck is lifted, there is a good chance that it is stock

Would anyone be able to post a picture or take a measurement of the drop of their pitman arm?

I am also looking for recommendations for some parts

Ball joints - I've read that people like moog

Steering gear box - red head?

Steering shaft - stock?

Also looking for some new shocks for a better ride



As always, any input is greatly appreciated

Thanks

 

If you're going to update the steering shaft and box, they make new shafts with universal joints instead of the rag joints. I believe Borgeson makes them.

Red head or Blue top are good. Blue top used to work at red head and split off and started his own company. I usually like to support the little man instead of the mainstream so I'll go the blue top route when I do mine.

 

I had a clunk when turning or driving over small bumps.

turned out to be my steering shaft down by the rag joint where it connects to the steering box had a bunch of play in it. There’s a rubber bushing on the stock shaft that goes bad and causes the clunk. This drove me nuts for some time. New ball joints, tie rods and red head steering box did not make it stop.

Look and listen to that rag joint while a partner moves the steering wheel back and forth to confirm

Borgeson makes one for are trucks. It’s pricey but it was one of the best things I have replaced on my truck.

Steering improved dramatically

 

Not sure about the noise but I think ball joints and u joints would be a good idea if you haven’t had them done yet. As for shock lots of folks here like bilstiens 5100s or HDs. I bought new motor craft shocks when I bought my truck and I would say it was a mistake. I will probably go with the 5100s as soon as possible

 

Under $4k for a CCLB 4x4 F350 is not a bad deal to me! Low power is probably a ton of small issues...you probably have no turbocharger drive pressure due to leaking uppipes. Plus stock injectors, 35" tires, heavy wheels, etc.

My pal has a Red Head box on his Bricknose, loves it. I plan to get one for the dually sometime. I like HDs on 2x4s and 5100s on the 4x4s.

Toss that 40/20/20 in the back seat and do the OE buckets with center console in front! I read all that stuff bolts right in and swaps. The dually came with buckets so I can help with measurements for sure.



BTW, great looking exhaust system.

 

If you get tired at somepoint,please ship it to Finland!
Crew Cab OBS is my daydream..
Nice truck!

 

thanks for all the responses!
i am in the middle of ordering some new parts

i took the borgeson advice and ordered a new steering shaft

i was trying to order a bluetop gear box, was having some trouble at checkout so ill call them tomorrow.

the hydraulic assist ports are needed for power steering? or is the assist ports for an additional unit?

i assumed that if i ordered a basic on it should work but i want to be sure.


got some other nick nacks taken care of, i took about 4 foot out of the exhaust pipe since it was frankesteined together. purchase a new air filter, i need to extend my intake duct because these filters are pretty big and it wont fit where my current one is. i ordered a 7" extension with a 45 deg bend at one end.

this trucks been sitting for about a year and half mostly, besides the occasional trip to get some beer on the weekend. probably put under 500 miles on it in that time frame, im getting exciting to get this thing rolling again. after changing the tierods im scared to drive it until i swap that shaft and gear box.

thanks again folks

 

The hydraulic ports on the box aren't needed unless you plan to run hydro assist steering in the future. This would require adding a PSC style ram to the front tie rod with the lines running back to the box. Typically the hydro assist steering becomes recommended at 37's, but its mainly wheelers that do it.

I want to run hydro assist in the future in place of a steering stabilizer and negate the need for a track bar.

 

That Borgeson shaft is overpriced, but worth it. Real easy to install, loctite the bolts.

That combined with a red head box made my trucks steering better than new.

Truck has 245k and the stock shaft was completely worn out, rag joint bushing was gone and that was where my clunk was. There was also play in the upper shaft where it’s made to collapse on impact.