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Something else to check is leaf spring bushings. If they are worn, it can allow clunk when you turn because the bolt sleeve and outer lead spring bushing are rubbing. With that kind of mileage, I would give them a look.
milk - where did you get your piping for the 6637? I looked in the thread and it seems you just got a piece of exhaust with a 45* in it but wanted to confirm. Where did you get it?
milk - where did you get your piping for the 6637? I looked in the thread and it seems you just got a piece of exhaust with a 45* in it but wanted to confirm. Where did you get it?
Just got the gear box and shaft installed. I think I need to replace one of the powersteering lines, its not seated well into the pump, probably explains the years worth of sludge build up.
Is there a trick to getting the steering wheel to align correctly?
Overall, the steering is much improved and i am very happy so far, however, I did not seem to fix the clunking, which probably means ball joints?
I think I may just take it up the road to a shop and see if they can get it on the lift, its a little tricky to try and lift front end off the ground with only one jack.
Dang was hoping the shaft would have fixed your clunk. I had the same issue getting steering wheel aligned. It just took a few try’s lining up the shaft to the new gear box splines. I got it good nuff for me, it’s barely noticeable. But a PIA either way
Take a hard look at your leaf spring bushings to source the clunk.
Another random spot to check is under the hood, look at where the front fenders bolt on underneath the hood hinges. 2 bolts each side. There’s some 20 year old cardboard that is sandwiched in between those mounting points that when wore out causes a clunk when turning or hitting bumps. My other 97 clunked there, drove me nuts. I fixed with some 1/4” cabinet board, anything to separate the metal on metal contact that clunks.
"Is there a trick to getting the steering wheel to align correctly?" Yes. You have two adjustments on the d-60 tie rods. One next to the pitman arm and one on the left tie rod. Loosen the locking bolt and turn one in and one out to get the steering wheel where you want it . Turn each the same amount. I do one turn at a time to see where the steering wheel sits. I use a pipe wrench or a large flat screwdriver to turn the adjusting sleeve. Hope this helps.IIRC my pitman arm could only go on in one place so this is a minor adjustment.
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That’s a good tip right, i had no idea you could adjust there
It will not mess with the alignment if you turn them both equally in opposite directions. When my steering wheel is not centered it drives me nuts. lol
Do not remember whether this was mentioned in another thread. That pressure switch on the brake master cylinder needs to go. Might get a dealer to replace it for free seeing as it was recalled. DIY is not that bad as the part does not cost much.
Thanks for the info on the brake sensor, ill look into it.
I'm on day 3 of driving my truck to work, about 35 miles one way. About 3 miles from home I get a big hiccup and the CEL comes on, it continued to run fine after the hiccup. Last couple times this happened, I lost my ICP sensor and CPS, which I'm told are unrelated. I shut the truck off when I got home and restarted it, fired right up without any CEL. I plugged my reader into the port and found every single code imaginable, which makes me curious if I'm having a bad connection or something in PCM.
The top code is a p1280 for the ICP, so I think my ICP did have some kind of hiccup or something,, all codes cleared no problem and everything seems normal
Weird lol
Also to add if anyone is curious. I love being able to driving 1 handed down the highway now,, new steering is great.
On that pressure PS line that seemed loose, I replaced mine and it is an odd connection that still has some wobble to it after tightening on the pump end. Instructions on my napa part said to be careful not to over tighten and wobble/spin is natural.
Cool to hear that you got rid of the "stay awake steering" !
