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Hey guys, sorry for starting a new thread on something that’s probably been answered but I have a bit of a unicorn on my hands and need some specific advice so here goes...
I recently picked up an 81 Bronco Custom with a 302 and auto trans. First on the list was brakes and power steering, got that fixed and squared away, truck had been running fine maybe a bit hard to crank but always started. The thing is the guy before me wired the starter directly to the solenoid so you put the key in the on position and hit a button under the dash to crank it. Worked fine until yesterday, now in order for the truck to run and keep running the key must be held in the “crank” position and it dies as soon as you let go of the key and it rotates back to “on”. I’ve replaced the ignition switch on top of the column under the dash and have it aligned correctly. I also replaced the ignition lock cylinder but I’m still having the same problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
I have tested the wires going into the ignition switch and I have power to the 2 yellow wires at all times but no power to any of the other wires wether the key is turned or not. If anybody can offer any advice whatsoever it would be greatly appreciated. I’ve read every thread on every forum that I can possibly find but I cannot find a clear answer or solution or even an identical problem to what I’m facing. Thanks in advance to whoever is kind enough to offer their advice.
Still switch adjustment. When you turn it to on does everything power up? When I was working for U-Haul, most of their smaller trucks have been Fords for years, on the service trucks this was what I would set by, turn the key to on, then adjust the switch till I felt it hit the run position and verify that everything was energized then test to verify it cranks. Sounds like whoever had the Bronco before had this issue and just bypassed adding the pushbutton.
One thing on the older Fords if it has a tilt wheel is the linkages will wear out and cause a lot of the issues you are also having.
EDC8008, thanks for the advice! I’ll check the adjustment in a little while. I did not notice anything on the dash turning on, but it still would start if I held the key in “crank”. And it does not have the tilting column thankfully I don’t have those extra issues lol
*EDIT*
i do not have power to the dash when turning the key to “ON”. I’m about to attempt adjusting the switch again
Last edited by Ched11; Nov 14, 2020 at 04:29 PM.
Reason: Le
EDC8008, thanks for the advice! I’ll check the adjustment in a little while. I did not notice anything on the dash turning on, but it still would start if I held the key in “crank”. And it does not have the tilting column thankfully I don’t have those extra issues lol
*EDIT*
i do not have power to the dash when turning the key to “ON”. I’m about to attempt adjusting the switch again
Slow and easy will get you there. We had a lotta guys that worked for us have this very same issue. You should be able to feel the switch but you will also hear the relays click when it goes to on if you're laying on the floorboard and doing it that way.
So I’ve checked all my grounds and made sure everything’s cleaned up and taped up some nicked wires I found. I’ve fiddled with the switch adjustment as mentioned above and no matter what I’m still only getting it to run when holding the key in START. I really don’t want to have to replace the wiring harness and I’m also not an electrician by any means, but at this point if I could get a detailed enough instruction on which wires to splice into to rig my own kill switches and accessory/coil toggles, I’m willing to give it a shot. Any help is much appreciated
No he says it will start as long as he turns the key to start.
Have you actually changed the switch as of yet? It is a 40 year old truck and the switch it self could very easily be worn out.
If adjusting will not work then check the rod between the ignition lock set, keys, and the switch. These do wear and especially if it has a tilt steering wheel.
If none of these works then you need to fix the harness and you know it's already been jacked with as it has a pushbutton to operate the starter. That could be because the neutral safety switch or a number of other things. Many times people will take short cuts when changing from manual to automatic and vice versa and bypassing the neutral safety and on some vehicles the clutch switch. I don't recall if this year bronco had the clutch switch or not but should have either that or the neutral safety. I can't help with details or diagrams as all of my stuff is at the house in Washington and I'm in Texas working.
I have replaced the lock cylinder and the ignition switch and I’m still having the same issues so I guess next on the list will have to be going through the whole wiring harness. At this point I’m ready to just LS swap the thing since I’m already going to be tearing into the harness hahaha
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