Ok, so I got a line on this nice 1990 f250, extra cab 7.3 turbo AT, 2WD.
Looks good. Won't start. Figure because the key will not engage the starter, broken actuator arm. Get in there and sure enough, it's broken.
I get it changed out but the key will not come back into the lock position, hence the key is in the ON position all the time and it will still not engage the starter.

QUESTION: Does this seem like the timing between the small brass gear (PITA to get the snap ring out) and the long gear it fits into (that hooks to the rod that runs down on top of the steering column) is off a tooth?

The actuator arm was broken but when I first started this process and tried to pull the ignition key out of the barrel out I had a real hard time getting it to come out. When I went to install the new switch the retainer inside the barrel and the brass gear were not lined up. Had to pull the snap ring and the retainer out and line them up to get the new keyed ignition in.

What am I doing wrong here???
Looking forward to the help. I have about 6 hours into this project! Really want to hear this thing run before I have to cough up ($1500 and it is straight!) the dough.

 

Found a great write up here: https://www.fullsizebronco.com/threa...-w-tilt.70454/

HOWEVER, right where this guy says during putting it all back together and it says "drop in the snap ring" is the problem!! The photo clearly shows that the retainer (or bearing) is not lined up with the brass gear inside so there is no way to insert the new ignition!
HELLS BELLS!

Standing by for anyones suggestions!

 

i always "time" the rack and key cylinder gear by placing the last cog of the cylinder gear into the last slot on the rack.
then once everything is together snug the ignition switch and test for full functions. one everything is timed and works, i tighten the bolts on the switch.

 

I just went through something similar. The actuator rod was broken, but another problem was with the key cylinder. Because the thing had been stiff and difficult to operate for a time the tab, or paddle, or whatever the proper name for it is, on the end of the key cylinder that engages the brass gear had gotten twisted, or bent out of alignment. This was why I found it difficult to remove the cylinder from the column and why the key would not turn back to accessory position. You may have a similar issue and can check with the alignment of the steel washer and brass gear at the bottom of the key cylinder hole.The tab on the end has to align with the alignment ridges on the key cylinder. If everything is right the cylinder will go in and come out easily. Then you can get under the dash and adjust the ignition switch once your key cylinder is is driving the push rod properly.

 

The initial issue was getting the keyed cylinder out. When it was out I saw that the brass gear was not in the same position as the (what appears to be a flat washer) retainer/bearing and so I pulled the snap ring and the bearing/retainer to get the gear out and lined up the holes so I could get the new keyed switch back in. Everything still acted the same way so went further down the rabbit hole and found the broken actuator.
What I don't get is that since it had not been disassembled before I got to it how could things be out of line? At this point I will take it back apart and attempt to do as you say Tom, put the last slot on the rack in the gear. However, the gear can only go into one position which is lined up with the hole in the retainer/bearing.
At the time I could not see how to remove or relocate the rack. Tips here?

Really wish my snap ring pliers had longer jaws though! PITA.

 

it is very possible the actuator was replaced once before improperly, and that is causing the issues you have now.

 

Possible I guess but the factory pin was still in that holds the rod in. It now has a small cotter pin instead.
Is there some trick to get the rack out??

 

to be honest with you, it has been at least 10 years since the last time i did one.
and i just don't remember. i would have to have it apart in front of me to remember how i do it.

 

Ok, appreciate the help, thank you. So far I can't find and good explanation or video of how that rack comes out but I will let you know how it turns out as soon as I can get back over to tackle it again.

 

I had the same problem. Mine was gunk and dirt in the actuator assembly I cleaned it all out and sprayed silicon in. There. The only problem I have now is it doesn't want to rotate far enough to get the start part of the switch to work. I haven't taken out the little brassgear yet but that is next.

 

I hope to get back over there this week (don't want this one to get away) and see if I can get it going. Yeah, this won't engage the starter and won't come back far enough to get the key into the lock position. It's kinda pissing me off!

 

There are a couple of videos on youtube that show the disassembly of the steering wheel to replace the actuator rod. I followed the advice in one of the videos to cut off the key release extension on the actuator rod. Cutting that piece off lets you install the actuator with less disassembly of the steering column. Once you get the steering wheel off and the signal cam out, the rack and gear will be accessible. Remove a couple more screws and the cast metal hub with the key cylinder comes off the column and you can take it to the bench and work on it much more easily. Take it apart, scrub and clean the rack and gear and reassemble with dry lubricant. If you have a tilt column remember to tilt the wheel all the way down before removing the turn signal/tilt stalk from the column.

 

OK, here is the (it took this long to get back over there!) current update. All back together (new actuator) and keyed barrel come out like it should and will go into the lock position and all the way forward to where it would engage the starter.

Hooked the batteries back up (key is out of ignition) and the dash lights are on as if the key is in accessory position. Tried to engage the starter and zippo, nada, nothing.
Gave up for the day at that point and unhooked the batteries and went home.

Anybody have an idea what the issue may be? Is it possible that when I put the unit back onto the steering column that instead of getting the little flat bar with the teeth (that engages the brass gear) where it is supposed to lock INTO the new actuator it is ON TOP of the actuator????

Not sure anymore if this truck is worth the $1200 the guy wants for it but I am determined to hear it run now, getting pissed off!

 

The long 90 degree snap ring pliers are a HUGE help to getting that baby out! Did it 6 times yesterday....

 

Is the problem now with the starter switch and not the key cylinder and actuator rod. You may want to drop the steering column to get better access to the push rod and the starter switch and make sure the rod is actually pushing the switch all the way to the start position. You would be able to engages the starter moving the switch and/or push rod with your fingers and pliers.