Windshield trim questions
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
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From: Houston
Windshield trim questions
Howdy all,
The old gal had a leak I believed was coming from in/under/around the upper portion of the windshield. I removed the trim around the glass; no special tool needed since the hold-down hardware was all rust and dust. From what I have gathered from other threads, the trim is held in place by clips looking similar to speed nuts in the trim piece and a double headed pop rivet attached to the sill around the glass. When installed, the second head of the rivet slips into the keyhole in the clip. Have I got that right?
I found a couple places where the black glass adhesive had pulled back during curing leaving nice little voids to hold water. I plugged them with silicone, and the leak stopped. That got me to wondering: will I find lots of rust under the black adhesive or could I get lucky and only the rivets have rusted away? I'm guessing the windshield will need to come out. Can/will a window replacement company replace the rivets and clips? Or will they only touch the repairs AFTER I have pulled everything apart?
What is the best way to attack this?
Thanks
1983 F150 I6 Auto with O/D
The old gal had a leak I believed was coming from in/under/around the upper portion of the windshield. I removed the trim around the glass; no special tool needed since the hold-down hardware was all rust and dust. From what I have gathered from other threads, the trim is held in place by clips looking similar to speed nuts in the trim piece and a double headed pop rivet attached to the sill around the glass. When installed, the second head of the rivet slips into the keyhole in the clip. Have I got that right?
I found a couple places where the black glass adhesive had pulled back during curing leaving nice little voids to hold water. I plugged them with silicone, and the leak stopped. That got me to wondering: will I find lots of rust under the black adhesive or could I get lucky and only the rivets have rusted away? I'm guessing the windshield will need to come out. Can/will a window replacement company replace the rivets and clips? Or will they only touch the repairs AFTER I have pulled everything apart?
What is the best way to attack this?
Thanks
1983 F150 I6 Auto with O/D
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,886
Likes: 4,119
From: Angier, NC
The only thing the glass people will do is pull the glass you repair and they put it back in.
They may have a few clips but the post has to be there for the clips.
IIRC LMC has the clips as that is where I think I got mine.
All the studs were good on mine.
Years ago, 40 or better, you could get screw in studs but who knows now?
Also stud welders for dent pulling I think has them to weld in place.
Dave ----
They may have a few clips but the post has to be there for the clips.
IIRC LMC has the clips as that is where I think I got mine.
All the studs were good on mine.
Years ago, 40 or better, you could get screw in studs but who knows now?
Also stud welders for dent pulling I think has them to weld in place.
Dave ----
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 31
Likes: 2
Howdy all,
The old gal had a leak I believed was coming from in/under/around the upper portion of the windshield. I removed the trim around the glass; no special tool needed since the hold-down hardware was all rust and dust. From what I have gathered from other threads, the trim is held in place by clips looking similar to speed nuts in the trim piece and a double headed pop rivet attached to the sill around the glass. When installed, the second head of the rivet slips into the keyhole in the clip. Have I got that right?
I found a couple places where the black glass adhesive had pulled back during curing leaving nice little voids to hold water. I plugged them with silicone, and the leak stopped. That got me to wondering: will I find lots of rust under the black adhesive or could I get lucky and only the rivets have rusted away? I'm guessing the windshield will need to come out. Can/will a window replacement company replace the rivets and clips? Or will they only touch the repairs AFTER I have pulled everything apart?
What is the best way to attack this?
Thanks
1983 F150 I6 Auto with O/D
The old gal had a leak I believed was coming from in/under/around the upper portion of the windshield. I removed the trim around the glass; no special tool needed since the hold-down hardware was all rust and dust. From what I have gathered from other threads, the trim is held in place by clips looking similar to speed nuts in the trim piece and a double headed pop rivet attached to the sill around the glass. When installed, the second head of the rivet slips into the keyhole in the clip. Have I got that right?
I found a couple places where the black glass adhesive had pulled back during curing leaving nice little voids to hold water. I plugged them with silicone, and the leak stopped. That got me to wondering: will I find lots of rust under the black adhesive or could I get lucky and only the rivets have rusted away? I'm guessing the windshield will need to come out. Can/will a window replacement company replace the rivets and clips? Or will they only touch the repairs AFTER I have pulled everything apart?
What is the best way to attack this?
Thanks
1983 F150 I6 Auto with O/D
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Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,980
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From: Virginia
The ones I have messed with, there is no pop riveted clip. Like Fuzz mentioned, there is a small post welded to the body, with a little hat on top like a screw head. The clip has a key-hole slot in the middle and this slips down over the post and snaps into place in the key hole of the clip. The only option I think you will have is to find a screw that is suitable, drill a hole and screw it in place to hold the clip. You might have to do some grinding on the head of the screw to make it small enough to accept the new clip in the keyhole.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,980
Likes: 2,735
From: Virginia
I didn't know till I just did some searching, but there are many places that sell this screw to replaced broken studs to retain the clips. I called them a "post" in my previous reply but I think the proper name is windshield clip stud.
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2020
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P.S. Stop using clear silicone!!! It holds moisture and creates more rust!!!
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More Turbo
Joined: Oct 2020
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From: Houston
The only reason I used silicone was to determine where the leak was originating. It will be removed. The old sealant has the consistency of cold tar or three day old chewing gum. I will be replacing the windshield, but when is yet to be determined. What is the proper sealant to use in the meantime?
The good news is the clips appear to be the only source of rust; I observed no significant rust to the sill. I found several of the studs are intact, but due to poor lighting and gobs of old and new sealant, I wasn't able to examine them all. Will check tomorrow in the light.
The good news is the clips appear to be the only source of rust; I observed no significant rust to the sill. I found several of the studs are intact, but due to poor lighting and gobs of old and new sealant, I wasn't able to examine them all. Will check tomorrow in the light.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
The truck used butyl tape from the factory the pinch weld is made for butyl tape and it lasted this long so that is what I installed my glass with and it is just fine no leaks.
I think most glass guys will glue it back in as that is what they know best and have on the truck for install.
Dave ----
I think most glass guys will glue it back in as that is what they know best and have on the truck for install.
Dave ----
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 31
Likes: 2
The truck used butyl tape from the factory the pinch weld is made for butyl tape and it lasted this load so that is what I installed my glass with and it is just fine no leaks.
I think most glass guys will glue it back in as that is what they know best and have on the truck for install.
Dave ----
I think most glass guys will glue it back in as that is what they know best and have on the truck for install.
Dave ----
Freshman User
Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 31
Likes: 2
The only reason I used silicone was to determine where the leak was originating. It will be removed. The old sealant has the consistency of cold tar or three day old chewing gum. I will be replacing the windshield, but when is yet to be determined. What is the proper sealant to use in the meantime?
The good news is the clips appear to be the only source of rust; I observed no significant rust to the sill. I found several of the studs are intact, but due to poor lighting and gobs of old and new sealant, I wasn't able to examine them all. Will check tomorrow in the light.
The good news is the clips appear to be the only source of rust; I observed no significant rust to the sill. I found several of the studs are intact, but due to poor lighting and gobs of old and new sealant, I wasn't able to examine them all. Will check tomorrow in the light.
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 30,886
Likes: 4,119
From: Angier, NC
My parts truck was a roll over, roof above the glass pushed down and the glass did not pop out.
I had to cut it out so it was out of my way when removing parts.
I can also install the glass using butyl tape but not using the new stuff.
In my book if it lasted 30+ years then it will last another 30+ years or longer as my truck is kept in the garage now.
Dave ----
I had to cut it out so it was out of my way when removing parts.
I can also install the glass using butyl tape but not using the new stuff.
In my book if it lasted 30+ years then it will last another 30+ years or longer as my truck is kept in the garage now.
Dave ----
Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Evansville, Indiana
I had my 1986 truck's windshield redone in the mid nineties after the seal failed. A few of the studs had broken off probably because of a defective weld as they were not rusty. With the seal failure, every time you would close the door with the windows up, the windshield glass would try to pop out, hammering at the trim and by extension, the studs.
The windshield repair guy used self tapping screws to reinstall the trim clips. This work had to take place while the glass was out of the vehicle.
The windshield repair guy used self tapping screws to reinstall the trim clips. This work had to take place while the glass was out of the vehicle.
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I replaced my windshield this year. I had rust underneath the butyl that I had to clean before they would replace the windshield. All my posts were good, but I replaced some clips. The new clips from LMC came with pop rivets for a more permanent installation. There is a guy on eBay that sells those trim screws and double headed pop rivets. I got some for my body moldings, but haven’t installed them yet, but they look to be the same as the window trim posts.
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