Coil replacement
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 73
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Coil replacement
'97 E150 with 5.4 liter
I've replaced five of the coils without too much difficulty. I probably should have replaced 3 while I had 4 out of the way.
However, it appears that 7 and 8 will be impossible to access without removing the fuel rail. Will those come out with the fuel rail in place?
I've replaced five of the coils without too much difficulty. I probably should have replaced 3 while I had 4 out of the way.
However, it appears that 7 and 8 will be impossible to access without removing the fuel rail. Will those come out with the fuel rail in place?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
'97 E150 with 5.4 liter
I've replaced five of the coils without too much difficulty. I probably should have replaced 3 while I had 4 out of the way.
However, it appears that 7 and 8 will be impossible to access without removing the fuel rail. Will those come out with the fuel rail in place?
I've replaced five of the coils without too much difficulty. I probably should have replaced 3 while I had 4 out of the way.
However, it appears that 7 and 8 will be impossible to access without removing the fuel rail. Will those come out with the fuel rail in place?
You will want to access #'s 7 & 8 from inside the cabin with the doghouse removed. Have enough light AND a magnetic pick up tool in case you drop one of the COP hold-down bolts.
I had a post showing my method but the photos have all been removed since they were attached to a now-defunct PhotoBucket. Sorry 'bout that.
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 73
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Thanks,
The codes told of a misfire on 6 when I bought the van about three years ago. I went ahead and bought a complete set of coils. At that time I replaced 1, 5, and 6, as they are easy enough to access from the front.
Last year I got the code for number 4. That one wasn't too bad, as the abutment for the mounting screw was broken (PO had epoxied it back together.) I should have replaced 3 while 4 was out of the way.
I now have the engine exposed to check and renew vacuum lines and EGR valve (IF I can break loose the rusted pipe from the valve.) So, I figure I'll replace the other coils. Thus far I've been able to access the holding screws with a 7mm 1/4" socket on a straight extension, but 7 and 8 appear to be daunting. It's not so much getting to the screw as getting the coils out once loose. Maybe remove 7 first to get more wiggle room for 8?
The codes told of a misfire on 6 when I bought the van about three years ago. I went ahead and bought a complete set of coils. At that time I replaced 1, 5, and 6, as they are easy enough to access from the front.
Last year I got the code for number 4. That one wasn't too bad, as the abutment for the mounting screw was broken (PO had epoxied it back together.) I should have replaced 3 while 4 was out of the way.
I now have the engine exposed to check and renew vacuum lines and EGR valve (IF I can break loose the rusted pipe from the valve.) So, I figure I'll replace the other coils. Thus far I've been able to access the holding screws with a 7mm 1/4" socket on a straight extension, but 7 and 8 appear to be daunting. It's not so much getting to the screw as getting the coils out once loose. Maybe remove 7 first to get more wiggle room for 8?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2014
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Okay, I got them out. 8 was actually pretty easy, with the bolt in plain sight. 7 on the other hand is trouble. The bolt is directly under the fuel pressure regulator. Only tool I could use is an open-end wrench, 1/8 turn at a time.
I'll buy a 1/4" drive U-joint tomorrow. For some odd reason, I've never needed one before, and most of my work involves motorcycles.
I'll buy a 1/4" drive U-joint tomorrow. For some odd reason, I've never needed one before, and most of my work involves motorcycles.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Once the COP bolt has been removed the coil itself will lift upwards even if fuel rails etc partially interfere with pulling it straight up and out. Simply tug on the body until its free from the boot or the boot from the plug which allows it all to be twisted in line with the engine block---it might not be the easiest task but its also not insurmountable.
If you're not careful the locking tab on the COP wiring harness connector WILL break which in turn causes repeated DTC's of misfires. If the connector can be warmed a bit with a hair dryer or lower temperature heat gun you run a lower risk of breaking that tab. Once re-installed try pulling the connector off the COP---if the tab is broken its immediately known. I replace those with an NAPA # EC259---about $18 each but a high quality part.
When installing plugs I use nothing but Motorcraft SP-479;s---there's absolutely NO advantage or benefit using anything claimed to be hi-teky or fancy.
I use nickle-based anti-seize on the plug threads and torque them to about 24 ft/lbs---that's more than factory spec but most of us here have learned that's pretty much the optimal setting to retain the plug in the head without any ill effects or performance issues.
If you're not careful the locking tab on the COP wiring harness connector WILL break which in turn causes repeated DTC's of misfires. If the connector can be warmed a bit with a hair dryer or lower temperature heat gun you run a lower risk of breaking that tab. Once re-installed try pulling the connector off the COP---if the tab is broken its immediately known. I replace those with an NAPA # EC259---about $18 each but a high quality part.
When installing plugs I use nothing but Motorcraft SP-479;s---there's absolutely NO advantage or benefit using anything claimed to be hi-teky or fancy.
I use nickle-based anti-seize on the plug threads and torque them to about 24 ft/lbs---that's more than factory spec but most of us here have learned that's pretty much the optimal setting to retain the plug in the head without any ill effects or performance issues.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 21,253
Likes: 1,656
From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio
Did you just tear into this or seek advice first?
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Cross-Country
Joined: Nov 2014
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I got both coils replaced. The U-joint wasn't much help, there isn't enough room beneath the pressure regulator for the socket and U-joint until the screw is at least halfway back in. Can't see if I'm actually turning the screw or just twisting the socket round on top of it. Second rule of automotive design: use a long screw with fine threads where access is limited. 
I thought about replacing those plugs. I have a nice magnetic plug socket and a variety of extensions. But neither of those is a straight shot, and I don't wish to break a plug off in the head or crossthread the new one. The ones at the front were replaced, but access to them is fairly strightforward.
Now if I can manage to break loose the rusted pipe from the EGR valve. If not I just wasted money on a new valve.
I thought about replacing those plugs. I have a nice magnetic plug socket and a variety of extensions. But neither of those is a straight shot, and I don't wish to break a plug off in the head or crossthread the new one. The ones at the front were replaced, but access to them is fairly strightforward.
Now if I can manage to break loose the rusted pipe from the EGR valve. If not I just wasted money on a new valve.
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Lead Driver
Joined: May 2004
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From: Maryville
I had all of mine done, plugs too, had a miss, 2 cylinders and no codes, not impressed, I have yet to regain gas mileage, I'm stuck at 7 MPG, not happy at all, runs fine, you'd not notice an issue if you weren't always on empty. Mine suffered from water in the well, the coil boots on 2 white from water and the aluminum intake, the only thing that hasn't been done is fuel injection cleaning, dad said the mechanic doesn't believe in it, said its no different than pouring the stuff in the tank, not gonna argue it with him, but that did help back when I bought it, the dealer ran the stuff through.
I can't do the plugs myself, the more I look at it, the more I'd rather sell it and have the engine in my 73 replaced, I hate the over engineered crap.
I can't do the plugs myself, the more I look at it, the more I'd rather sell it and have the engine in my 73 replaced, I hate the over engineered crap.
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