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1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Complete Floorpan Replace Anyone?

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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 08:21 AM
  #16  
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I thought I saw in one of your threads a MIG welder in the pic. Do you have a recommendation on the welder you used? Need to get one.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 08:25 AM
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Originally Posted by DallasJim
I thought I saw in one of your threads a MIG welder in the pic. Do you have a recommendation on the welder you used? Need to get one.
I bought mine at Harbor freight. It's a Titanium MIG140.
Not too expensive and does a good job.
120V so it plugs in to a regular household outlet
There are many others available. I'm sure some others might have recommendations as well.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2020 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Flitebynite

floor cut out
Do you recall the wood board dimensions and/or any approximate height/width dimensions of the wood frame holder?
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 05:17 AM
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I have a Hobart 140. Works great. Make sure you use the right size wire. And use the gas version as you can also get a flux core wire that makes a real mess.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 05:43 AM
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Originally Posted by DallasJim
Do you recall the wood board dimensions and/or any approximate height/width dimensions of the wood frame holder?
I'll take some measurements when I get home from work today.
I'll post them later
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 06:42 AM
  #21  
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I only did from the horizontal mid brace in the floors to the toe boards and a couple inches up on the toe boards. I think the bracing is a must. Unless you put it in a fixture or cart where you can bolt it to and open and close the doors. When i did mine I had bracing in there but it was kindof hanging off of the body dolly and didn't give me a lot of confidence during reassembly, now granted this is on a panel truck but the what Im trying to say is make sure it is fixed. Just prepare yourself for about 100 test fits, making small adjustments eveytime.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 06:07 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Marten
I have a Hobart 140. Works great. Make sure you use the right size wire. And use the gas version as you can also get a flux core wire that makes a real mess.
Have you done any welding on your frame with the 140? I've read mixed reviews about frame work with a 120V welder.
 
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Old Nov 8, 2020 | 10:29 PM
  #23  
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The Hobart 140 machine is rated to 1/4 inch mild steel...more than sufficient for any frame work. A lower amperage machine won't weld as fast but it will penetrate and lay down a good weld bead.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 08:10 AM
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Jim,
All of the Boards are 2x10's.
I built it to the cab and it sits 3ft high.
It's a great height for working on the Cab.
I'll try to find some pics of the rig I used to lift the new Floor into place.
Chris
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 10:09 AM
  #25  
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Cool. I thought they were 2x10s; that's actually what I had already purchased. I also purchased a 2x12 for the firewall cross-member. Did you simply use 1x tubing for bracing in those two areas?
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 12:04 PM
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Whatever cross-bracing you use and cab dolly you build, make sure there is room to install the doors.

Once the floor pan is tacked into place, just enough to hold everything rigid, install the doors, hinges and all. Make sure they swing freely and there is room for them to land where you want them when closed. Then finish welding the floor pan. It could save a lot of heartache when trying to fit the doors later.
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 12:09 PM
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1x1" Square tubing is what I used
 
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Old Nov 10, 2020 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DallasJim
Have you done any welding on your frame with the 140? I've read mixed reviews about frame work with a 120V welder.
I have not, my brother helped me with the frame. did that before I bought the welder. The manual says it works to 1/4" but that is on flux core wire. Up to 3/16" I think on gas It will handle anything you need to weld on your truck. Just slower I guess with frame work. Bigger is not always better when it comes to welding. to much heat can make a mess.
 
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