Oil Questions
#1
Oil Questions
Took my 03 EB Ex to the dealer to get the latest reflash. (I am about to go pick it up as the dealer just called, put that in another post). Anyway, asked the dealer about the Engine romping and the oil leaks quite a few people have been getting. He asked what oil type I was using and I told him Rotella 5w40 Synthetic (it is getting colder here in Alaska and I move to Fairbanks in a few months). He said that could be the problem. From everything I have read here and everywhere else, this is a good oil. The tech stated that in a meeting they had that Rotella was one of the oils that Ford (his words) said is causing problems. Thoughts? I personally just think he is talking since it was not Motorcraft, which is understandable.
About the leak, he said he would dye the oil, but I haven't gotten the results. Anyway, the tech stated there is a rubber grommet or bushing that need replaced on the drain plug every change. I know there is one on the oil filter housing. I have read the manual but do not have it since the truck is at the dealer, but am I crazy? I have changed oil three times and never remember seeing it. Is there really one? And does it really have to be changed each change? I am not concerned about the few bucks it may cost, just seems silly, I guess.
Last thing, I clearly remember the manual stating that if the driving is highway type (not stop and go) and it is not too hot, not too cold, not too dusty, etc... the change interval is 7000. Just doing a sanity check because I let it go t his long last time as I traveled through Canada to the lower 48 and back.
Comments, opinions, and suggestions appreciated
WigWag
About the leak, he said he would dye the oil, but I haven't gotten the results. Anyway, the tech stated there is a rubber grommet or bushing that need replaced on the drain plug every change. I know there is one on the oil filter housing. I have read the manual but do not have it since the truck is at the dealer, but am I crazy? I have changed oil three times and never remember seeing it. Is there really one? And does it really have to be changed each change? I am not concerned about the few bucks it may cost, just seems silly, I guess.
Last thing, I clearly remember the manual stating that if the driving is highway type (not stop and go) and it is not too hot, not too cold, not too dusty, etc... the change interval is 7000. Just doing a sanity check because I let it go t his long last time as I traveled through Canada to the lower 48 and back.
Comments, opinions, and suggestions appreciated
WigWag
#2
briefly read thru my man today and thought i read 7500...
sounds fishy to me about your probs... if aft 3x chg...why not just use the DLR recommended oil? then no potential of any egg on yer face.
this new beast is 'testy' it seems... perhaps best walk 'their' line for first few steps...
~2000 miles on my new. i'm taking to dealer for first oel chg at ~6k-ish... therefore, no quests (i hope).
sounds fishy to me about your probs... if aft 3x chg...why not just use the DLR recommended oil? then no potential of any egg on yer face.
this new beast is 'testy' it seems... perhaps best walk 'their' line for first few steps...
~2000 miles on my new. i'm taking to dealer for first oel chg at ~6k-ish... therefore, no quests (i hope).
#3
Dinebito,
Not sure what you mean about the fishy part, but agree with the walking the line. IBut, I never stated I had the problem, Just asking the dealer tech based off what others have been stating. But, after reading my post again, I did not make that point clear.
I really just took it in to get the reflash. Some people say do, some say don't. I just went with the philosophy of if something did go wrong and I never took advantage of what was being offered, then what? More of a calculated guess than anything else. In either case, the only real problem I have ever had was going at speed and the engine shut off. Started right back up, but was hairy. Don't think oil has anything really to do with it.
I guess my points were more this. I know from reading that many owners use the Rotella and like it, so what is there take on the comments?
Is there really a rubber bushing on the drain plug that I never noticed?
Under ideal conditions, is the oil change interval 7,000 (or 7,500) as you pointed out?
Sorry for the confusion and I appreciate the input. BTW, I have 28,900 on mine and love it. Short of the shut off problem. See if the reflash helps. Just got it back, so I will try it out .
WigWag
Not sure what you mean about the fishy part, but agree with the walking the line. IBut, I never stated I had the problem, Just asking the dealer tech based off what others have been stating. But, after reading my post again, I did not make that point clear.
I really just took it in to get the reflash. Some people say do, some say don't. I just went with the philosophy of if something did go wrong and I never took advantage of what was being offered, then what? More of a calculated guess than anything else. In either case, the only real problem I have ever had was going at speed and the engine shut off. Started right back up, but was hairy. Don't think oil has anything really to do with it.
I guess my points were more this. I know from reading that many owners use the Rotella and like it, so what is there take on the comments?
Is there really a rubber bushing on the drain plug that I never noticed?
Under ideal conditions, is the oil change interval 7,000 (or 7,500) as you pointed out?
Sorry for the confusion and I appreciate the input. BTW, I have 28,900 on mine and love it. Short of the shut off problem. See if the reflash helps. Just got it back, so I will try it out .
WigWag
#4
The o-ring for the oil filter housing cap comes with the oil filter, at least with the Motorcraft and International brands.
As far as using a synthetic oil in you PSD, maybe your dealer is a die hard Motorcraft guy. Or, as some people claim, syn oil can cause seals to swell. I don't know. The Shell oil is suppose to be good stuff, as long as it is CI-4 rated. It sound like your dealer's fix to a leaking rear main seal my be to take the oil out of the crankcase. No oil, no leak, no problem. Everything I've been reading points to a faulty rear main seal.
As far as using a synthetic oil in you PSD, maybe your dealer is a die hard Motorcraft guy. Or, as some people claim, syn oil can cause seals to swell. I don't know. The Shell oil is suppose to be good stuff, as long as it is CI-4 rated. It sound like your dealer's fix to a leaking rear main seal my be to take the oil out of the crankcase. No oil, no leak, no problem. Everything I've been reading points to a faulty rear main seal.
#5
Hitecdan,
The tech is saying there is a rubber grommet/bushing that goes on the drain plug itself, plus the one that goes on the oil filter housing. In doing before, I have not seen it. I am not the original owner, so it is possible it was removed? I just do not remember ever seeing one. Short of pulling it off, I wanted to ask.
Thanks.
The tech is saying there is a rubber grommet/bushing that goes on the drain plug itself, plus the one that goes on the oil filter housing. In doing before, I have not seen it. I am not the original owner, so it is possible it was removed? I just do not remember ever seeing one. Short of pulling it off, I wanted to ask.
Thanks.
#6
The o-ring goes on the cap itself just above the threads. As far as a rubber grommet for the oil plug, I got my truck new and it didn't have one. It has a copper washer that can be replaced every oil change. I've change my oil twice and my dealer once and the washer has not been replaced yet, and it's not leaking. It should be replaced every once in awhile because it does get crushed when you reinstall the plug.
The wife's Honda has an aluminum washer and the Honda dealer gives me a new washer with every oil filter I buy, so I replace it everytime. Since I don't buy oil filters for my 6.0L from my Ford dealer (because he want $53.00 for one), it would be a special trip getting a new washer (I guess I could just go down there and buy a dozen of the darn things). If you let you dealer change your oil, ask him to replace the washer as well.
Maybe your tech has seen them on a 7.3L PSD (I don't know if it has a rubber grommet or not) and just assumes the 6.0L are the same.
The wife's Honda has an aluminum washer and the Honda dealer gives me a new washer with every oil filter I buy, so I replace it everytime. Since I don't buy oil filters for my 6.0L from my Ford dealer (because he want $53.00 for one), it would be a special trip getting a new washer (I guess I could just go down there and buy a dozen of the darn things). If you let you dealer change your oil, ask him to replace the washer as well.
Maybe your tech has seen them on a 7.3L PSD (I don't know if it has a rubber grommet or not) and just assumes the 6.0L are the same.
#7
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