1988 RANGER ISSUE
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1988 RANGER ISSUE
Been working on MY moms truck for about 6 months. 1988 2.3 auto. She parked it in the garage running fine. A week later it turned over but wouldnt start. truck has great fuel pressure, has spark, has hot battery. had intake and throttle body off to check injectors and wiring. had all air intake hoses off for inspections.checked, when intake and throttle body was put back on but no filter hosing, it started and ran wide open till key was turned off. when all was put back together, started and ran fine for 30 seconds and died like the key was turned off.
replaced map sensor, ignition switch. checked air valve on filter box,
at a total lose. there is no error code on the obd reader. was bought brand new and very well maintained. never had any problems till now.
PLEASE HELP!!
replaced map sensor, ignition switch. checked air valve on filter box,
at a total lose. there is no error code on the obd reader. was bought brand new and very well maintained. never had any problems till now.
PLEASE HELP!!
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: SW Va
Welcome to FTE.
You've been busy on this one. Remember it takes Air, Fuel & Spark to make em run & good compression, valve & spark timing to make em run well, so whats going missing & why???? You can use your inductive timing light on any spark plug wire to safely check for spark & use your fuel pressure gauge at the under hood fuel rail schrader valve test port, to test for proper fuel pressure & post up the pressure Number & flow rate over time. Flow rate should be something like 1/2 pt /15 seconds pump run time. Some beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
You've been busy on this one. Remember it takes Air, Fuel & Spark to make em run & good compression, valve & spark timing to make em run well, so whats going missing & why???? You can use your inductive timing light on any spark plug wire to safely check for spark & use your fuel pressure gauge at the under hood fuel rail schrader valve test port, to test for proper fuel pressure & post up the pressure Number & flow rate over time. Flow rate should be something like 1/2 pt /15 seconds pump run time. Some beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.
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FIXING TO BREAK DOWN AND TAKE IT TO A LOCAL SHOP. I HAVE EXHAUSTED ALL MY ABILITIES. SINCE IT HAS EVERYTHING NEEDED TO RUN AND HAS RAN PERFECT, EVEN IT ONLY FOR 30 SECONDS. I WAS JUST HOPING SOMEONE HERE HAD RAN INTO THIS SAME PROBLEM. BUT ITS JUST MY LUCK THAT I WOULD HAVE THE ONLY ONE OUT OF 8 PLUS MILLION TRUCKS THAT HAS AN ISSUE THAT PRETTY MUCH STUMPED EVERYBODY SO FAR. LOL.
THANKS FOR THE REPLY
THANKS FOR THE REPLY
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From: SW Va
If it'll run for 30 seconds before stopping, it just about has to be spark, or fuel going missing. Remember this puppy has TWO fuel pumps, a low pressure feed pump that pulls fuel out of the tank, to feed the high pressure pump on the drivers side frame rail & it feeds the fuel injectors with high pressure fuel, so they'll squirt right.. So if it'll run for 30 seconds it seems like the low pressure feed pump needs to be higher up on the suspect list. Or maybe the tank has some muck thats clogging up the in tank prefilter sock & starving the in tank fuel pump. More thoughts for consideration. Let us know what you find.
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I CAN HEAR THE PUMP IN THE TANK PRIME WHEN THE KEY IS TURNED ON. TOOK THE PUMP OFF THE FRAME AND TESTED IT. SO BOTH APPEARS TO BE WORKING PROPERLY.
I AM GOING TO KEEP LOOKING A LITTLE MORE BUT ABOUT TO GIVE UP.
I AM GOING TO KEEP LOOKING A LITTLE MORE BUT ABOUT TO GIVE UP.
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I TOOK THE PUMP OFF THE FRAME AND ACTUALLY TESTED IT. IT WORKS GOOD AND YOU CAN HEAR THE PUMP PRIME IN THE TANK WHEN YOU TURN THE KEY ON
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From: SW Va
Have you performed the fuel Volume over time test ? It should be about 1/2pt - 15 seconds pump run time. If that looks ok post up the fuel pressure Numbers, measured at the fuel rail schrader valve test port, with the FPR vacuum line attached & removed.
If all that checks out ok after it stalls, hook up your inductive timing light, crank the engine to see if its spark thats going missing. If spark is going missing when it shuts down, move the ICM higher up on the suspect list. You could try spraying it with a caned cooling spray thats used to spot check out solid state components for temp operating problems, to see if the ICM will suddenly wake up when cooled & if so, replace the ICM, as it's a common problem part too. More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find..
If all that checks out ok after it stalls, hook up your inductive timing light, crank the engine to see if its spark thats going missing. If spark is going missing when it shuts down, move the ICM higher up on the suspect list. You could try spraying it with a caned cooling spray thats used to spot check out solid state components for temp operating problems, to see if the ICM will suddenly wake up when cooled & if so, replace the ICM, as it's a common problem part too. More thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find..
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