Running/idle/power issues
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 37
Likes: 3
Running/idle/power issues
95 4.9 with 225k 5 speed
Having issues with continuous running, I’ve replaced both fuel pumps (dual tank short bed), the fuel filter, the IAC, the ICM, the distributor, plugs, wires. Was running just fine, next morning didn’t even get off my street. Will start and idle fine the first time it’s fired. I apply any gas after it has heated up to move and it will idle high, sputter out, backfire and die. The IAC and the coil pack click when the key is turned on but engine off. They only click once the engine warms up. I’ve unplugged the IAC and the EGR when running nothing happened it stayed idling. It idles just under 1k on stock in dash tach. Jumps to 15-2k before sputtering and shutting itself off.
Any ideas?
Having issues with continuous running, I’ve replaced both fuel pumps (dual tank short bed), the fuel filter, the IAC, the ICM, the distributor, plugs, wires. Was running just fine, next morning didn’t even get off my street. Will start and idle fine the first time it’s fired. I apply any gas after it has heated up to move and it will idle high, sputter out, backfire and die. The IAC and the coil pack click when the key is turned on but engine off. They only click once the engine warms up. I’ve unplugged the IAC and the EGR when running nothing happened it stayed idling. It idles just under 1k on stock in dash tach. Jumps to 15-2k before sputtering and shutting itself off.
Any ideas?
Mountain Pass
Joined: Mar 2019
Posts: 183
Likes: 7
From: MO
I'm not sure I follow your explanation, but if it were me, I'd visually inspect the EEC-IV for leaky capacitors. And I'd pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator - make sure no gasoline in there.
Thread Starter
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 37
Likes: 3
I did a wiggle test and got a code reader. It will start and idle around 800 (stock ford in dash tach) when the motor has heated up. It will start to idle high/low buck and kick but suck air from the throttle body. It will make the sucking sound. Return to normal and then die out. The check engine light flashes while doing this. There isn’t any smog/vacuum or emissions left hooked up. It’s ran for years without any issues. There is gas in the bowl for the IAC. Could the TPS be bad?
i unplugged the IAC while running and it died immediately.
i unplugged the IAC while running and it died immediately.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,791
Likes: 2,426
The computer is telling you something is wrong. Check for fault codes instead of just guessing what is wrong. There is fuel in the intake at the throttle body? Do as was suggested in post #2 and check the fuel pressure regulator for a broken diaphragm.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 37
Likes: 3
Yes there is fuel at the throttle body. All of the emissions stuff is pulled off or plugged up. Bought it that way years ago. I’m gonna check the FPR, there isn’t any vacuum lines hooked to it, the EGR doesn’t have any vacuum pull either.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 37
Likes: 3
The codes I’ve received were 114, 116, 522, 10, 111.
114 was air charge temp +\- normal operation temp
116 was coolant temp +/- normal operation temp
522 is in gear(I put it in gear when parked)
10 separated the code sets
111 was system pass
50 popped up as well, but couldn’t find anything for what that was.
I may have 114 and 116 flipped but they popped up repeatedly.
114 was air charge temp +\- normal operation temp
116 was coolant temp +/- normal operation temp
522 is in gear(I put it in gear when parked)
10 separated the code sets
111 was system pass
50 popped up as well, but couldn’t find anything for what that was.
I may have 114 and 116 flipped but they popped up repeatedly.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,791
Likes: 2,426
You shouldn’t have a mix of 2 and 3 digit codes. Was the truck up to operating temp? I believe you are supposed to have the clutch depressed while running the test. You need the vacuum line hooked up to the fpr otherwise you are always at max pressure- dumping fuel in the engine.
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5th Wheeling
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 37
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I have it in 1st gear when it’s sitting. It’s a manual with no parking brake. I have it in 1st during the KOEO test, I’ve really only gotten 3 digit codes off of the code reader, the only 2 codes that were 2 did hit was the 10 and 50
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Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,791
Likes: 2,426
I was editing my previous post. According to another member you need to have the clutch pedal depressed when running the test. I don’t have any I6 trucks.
Hotshot
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 12,791
Likes: 2,426
I’m not following that logic. Why would a bad switch require a new pedal assembly? Anyway, that means that computer is losing power which many or may not be related to your problem. There have been a lot of computers failing over the last several years due to age. You could open it up and check for damaged capacitors. It is removed from the wheel well on a ‘95.
It appears that you have a few issues that need to be addressed.
It appears that you have a few issues that need to be addressed.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 735
Likes: 8
From: NC
Hopefully the EEC change will fix ya up. I had a code 512 on my truck and while it ran , it ran like crap. a remanned EEC fixed it and wasn't hard to do. Then I set about checking all the sensors. Then went section by section on the truck and got her to where I was happy with it and LOVE driving my truck.