When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Pardon the newbie question. Tried search, but no luck. I'll be pulling my 35' 5th wheel home Friday, for the first time (SB, Goosebox, if that matters). Can anyone with experience tell me what I should set my brake controller to? I have a 2015 F-250 6.7L, with the towing package, and the built-in controller. I'm curious about the gain setting (8, 9, 10?), and the sensitivity setting in the information screen. What's a good starting point for these settings? Thanks in advance!
I would start with the TBC set at 5. Effort set to medium. With foot on brake, switch to drive, release and then grab the TBC slider and squeeze. TBC should stop the truck and trailer. If that works you can go up to about 25 mph and press on the brakes as normal and see how it stops. It should stop in about the same length of time as always.
Keep in mine that will not apply the faster you are going, at hwy speed watch your distances, people love to jump in front and then do stupid things, they always do, but even more so when you are towing.
Kinda tough to dial in the brake controller on a trailer that's been sitting even a short amount of time. On a trailer that hasn't been moved in a while, I like to set the gain in the middle and work the manual lever on the brake controller a few times while moving forward slowly in a parking lot. I'll set the gain a notch below where it will lock the trailer brakes on dry pavement.
Might have to adjust the gain up or down a notch after putting a few miles on to clear rust off the drums, magnets, rotors etc (depending on type of brakes you have). Braking often gets better but sometimes weaker after just a few miles. Also, I'll check their aggressiveness after loading the trailer.
I have an aftermarket controller so what you call sensitivity my controller calls boost. I'll turn up the boost on the highway and turn it down in town to keep the trailer from jerking the heck out of me and the truck.
After you've driven a few miles, check temperature on all drums/rotors. Sometimes they don't always get each brake adjusted correctly. A hot brake can mean it's too tight or it can mean the other brakes are not tight enough, not working, etc. They should all be about the same temp. Same applies for disk brakes...calipers can stick open or closed causing one brake to do all the work. Lot of guys like to use an infrared temp gun to check hubs and brakes.
Great information, guys! Thanks a lot. I appreciate the advice. I'm a bit nervous, to say the least, about dragging this big box down the road (Keystone Montana 3121RL). I've towed my Jeep CJ7 on a 16 foot lowboy, but that's about it for my limited experience. I'm also a bit concerned about being able to back this barge into my driveway when I get it home... Not sure if backing up a 5th wheel is easier or harder than a bumper pull trailer.
It's good to be a little nervous at first...it means you're thinking and trying to be careful. Take your time and think things through before you put plans into motion. After a while you'll relax and enjoy. :-)
I usually end up around 8 on my 11k 5th wheel trailer. Senix's post is a good starting point. You don't want to have the feeling the trailer isn't helping, use the manual slider if ever in doubt.
As for backing, a 5th wheel is far easier to back up than a bumper pull. I can turn 80-85 degrees with my 5th wheel, you can't near that with a bp. If you feel uncomfortable, go to a empty parking lot and practice a bit.
We tow cross country, take you time, set your speed limit at no more than 65 mph due to china bomb ST tires.
I bought a TST tire pressure and temperature monitor, just to hopefully warn me of a pending explosion.
To the OP, don't know if I can explain it with any luck, but a bp trailer backs in an arc and you can only turn so tight before hitting the trailer. With a 5th wheel, you back in a arc, till you have your rear axles abeam what you are going around, you can then crank the steering on your truck the other way and start pushing the 5th wheel in more of a sideways manner, then turn the steering back as you get the trailer aligned up. I camped at a spot a couple of weeks ago, that was a bit of a challenge to get my 34.5' rv in, because of a tree and a narrow road with a 1.5' dropoff. It took a couple of back and forths and a spotter for the ditch, but we made it in a couple of minutes. It would have been very hard to get a 28' bumper pull in there, especially with the 3 cars waiting for you to get clear.
To the OP, don't know if I can explain it with any luck, but a bp trailer backs in an arc and you can only turn so tight before hitting the trailer. With a 5th wheel, you back in a arc, till you have your rear axles abeam what you are going around, you can then crank the steering on your truck the other way and start pushing the 5th wheel in more of a sideways manner, then turn the steering back as you get the trailer aligned up. I camped at a spot a couple of weeks ago, that was a bit of a challenge to get my 34.5' rv in, because of a tree and a narrow road with a 1.5' dropoff. It took a couple of back and forths and a spotter for the ditch, but we made it in a couple of minutes. It would have been very hard to get a 28' bumper pull in there, especially with the 3 cars waiting for you to get clear.
A fiver can be turned tighter than a bumper pull though it really twists the camper tires sideways. I try to keep my turns somewhat gradual especially on dry pavement or concrete.
A fiver can be turned tighter than a bumper pull though it really twists the camper tires sideways. I try to keep my turns somewhat gradual especially on dry pavement or concrete.
I agree with you, but I would have never gotten into a few campsites without the maneuver.
I bought a TST tire pressure and temperature monitor, just to hopefully warn me of a pending explosion.
To the OP, don't know if I can explain it with any luck, but a bp trailer backs in an arc and you can only turn so tight before hitting the trailer. With a 5th wheel, you back in a arc, till you have your rear axles abeam what you are going around, you can then crank the steering on your truck the other way and start pushing the 5th wheel in more of a sideways manner, then turn the steering back as you get the trailer aligned up. I camped at a spot a couple of weeks ago, that was a bit of a challenge to get my 34.5' rv in, because of a tree and a narrow road with a 1.5' dropoff. It took a couple of back and forths and a spotter for the ditch, but we made it in a couple of minutes. It would have been very hard to get a 28' bumper pull in there, especially with the 3 cars waiting for you to get clear.
Hi ATC_F350,
I just bought the TST 507 with 8 sensors. Should be here in a few days. Expensive, but great piece of mind... I understand what you're saying about the differences in backing up the two trailer types. I'm going to have to spend some time in an empty parking lot to get comfortable with it, I'm sure. I also bought side and rear view cameras to help me out. Geez, this retirement stuff is getting expensive!
For me, the most important aid for backing up is a spotter to watch for kids (and adults) that may wander into your blind spots while backing up. Everything else is stationary and can be replaced if need be.
Triler Brake Control Setting
