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Okay, guys! It's a deal! We're going for the 2003! We're having it checked out at the shop, and assuming there's nothing tragic, we should bring her home next week! I AM SO EXCITED. Thank you all for your help and advice!!
So...I guess we need to get that oil leak fixed, get the sway bar on, maybe get some Weather Techs for inside...a transmission cooler upgrade....anything else critical for the first round of triage?
There is little to no rust underneath...what do I need to do to keep it that way?
Thats great!
Keep us updated on the process, and get pics.
Living in the Northeast I spay everything underneath with black woolwax, using their pro kit off amazon, I take off door panels and do inside bottom seams of doors for the first application, then get it inside rockers, and everywhere I can. Where it doesnt see direct weather it will stay permanently, on the frame and other areas that see road spray and more salt I spray every fall, down where you are at maybe every other fall. Woolwax goes on very good, over time it migrates into areas you cant spray, aka seams and what not. It has little over spray when applying, and doesnt smell, it is better then any of the lanolin based coatings I have used. It goes on great i heated in an old crockpot first!
5 gallons will last you a couple years. It never dries so no having to clean the spray gun etc.
Okay, guys! It's a deal! We're going for the 2003! We're having it checked out at the shop, and assuming there's nothing tragic, we should bring her home next week! I AM SO EXCITED. Thank you all for your help and advice!!
So...I guess we need to get that oil leak fixed, get the sway bar on, maybe get some Weather Techs for inside...a transmission cooler upgrade....anything else critical for the first round of triage?
There is little to no rust underneath...what do I need to do to keep it that way?
Congratulations!
Unless you've got great service records with this vehicle, plan on changing all the fluids just so you have a known starting point. Also a good idea to install new HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) lines if they are original, and serpentine belt.
The oil leak up top could come from anywhere...HPOP, turbo EBPV (Exhaust Back Pressure Valve), turbo pedestal O-rings, HPOP fittings, etc. Best to spray with degreaser and let it sit for a bit. Then rinse down with low pressure water (some use a pressure washer but that scares me). Make sure you don't get any water in the electrical boxes on the drivers side of the engine compartment. I cover the power steering fill cap with a plastic baggie as there is a vent hole in it. Once the top of the engine is clean you should be able to pin down your leak area.
@ESwift Thanks for the info and the link! So you just shimmy on under the Ex with some eye protection and go to town with that thing? Do you end up pretty rust-resistant yourself? How do you not make a total mess?
@ArmyLifer That's some really useful advice and starting points! Thank you! A shop will be fixing the oil leak. Would it make sense to do the HPOP lines at the same time or does it not matter? Also...the transmission cooler...If I look at Mishimoto, for example, I get the one that fits the 7.3, right? What's the 6 in 6.0 cooler that everyone is referring to? Is it for the 6.0L engine? Do I get the one for the 6.0L engine?
Here are some pics as a start...you can see there is some rust in the last pic, but from things I've seen, this seemed okay....?Thoughts?
Thank you! A shop will be fixing the oil leak. Would it make sense to do the HPOP lines at the same time or does it not matter? If the HPOP lines are original they should be changed. If one bursts you will lose 2 gallons of oil in a minute and be stuck along side the road. The good news is the way the 7.3 engine operates it won't be damaged by this oil loss...it will just stop running.
Also...the transmission cooler...If I look at Mishimoto, for example, I get the one that fits the 7.3, right? What's the 6 in 6.0 cooler that everyone is referring to? Is it for the 6.0L engine? Do I get the one for the 6.0L engine? Get the 6.0L one. The 6.0L (engine) Excursions and Superduties had a much more effective transmission cooler. It bolts right in place of the miniscule 7.3 one, and with a few 3/8"-1/2" hose fittings it is a relatively easy modification. Its also a good time to do a transmission flush and refill (directions in the tech folder).
Here are some pics as a start...you can see there is some rust in the last pic, but from things I've seen, this seemed okay....?Thoughts? That's barely rust at all. That is a common amount of rust on the drive shaft and muffler. The northern guys are probably drooling right now.
The mishimoto cooler made for a 7.3 is the exact same as their 6.0 one, it just comes with line sections ready to adapt to the 7.3 lines. Great product. It has more rows then the oem 6.0 cooler, and is massive compared to stock 7.3 cooler.
As far as undercoating I wear a face shield and tyveck suit from lowes. I like to work on a lift, but since I dont have mine installed yet, I lifted the truck on jack stands for more room, and went to work. Woolwax is less messy then other similar brands(fluid film) as it is thicker(thats why heating helps a ton) there is very little over spray,the mess usually happens when you kink wand and it shoots out the pressure release valve(major mess) once you get the hang of it you can do it with minimal mess.
Okay, guys! It's a deal! We're going for the 2003! We're having it checked out at the shop, and assuming there's nothing tragic, we should bring her home next week! I AM SO EXCITED. Thank you all for your help and advice!!
So...I guess we need to get that oil leak fixed, get the sway bar on, maybe get some Weather Techs for inside...a transmission cooler upgrade....anything else critical for the first round of triage?
There is little to no rust underneath...what do I need to do to keep it that way?
If and When you find rust hiding on the inside of the under-carriage and in other nooks and crannies, and get upset, remember you were warned by numerous people here, Rust is like cancer once it gets into the under-carriage and gets going good. And it can rack up a large bill to fix, if it is fixable structurally.
@MasterX Wait, what? I'm getting the nonrusty one. I took all your advice to heart and appreciate it. Did I miss something or say something the wrong way? If so, I apologize...
@MasterX Wait, what? I'm getting the nonrusty one. I took all your advice to heart and appreciate it. Did I miss something or say something the wrong way? If so, I apologize...
Rust free one looks good. The nice thing about the woolwax is it seals off rust and repels moisture, it creeps into places you cant ger directly and into seams where parts are bolted to the frame. Without oxygen there can be no rust, driving moisture out is another major bonus. If it work up here in the nasty north east you will certainly be good to go down there.
I say buy it and enjoy it!
Thanks @ESwift and @ArmyLifer for all the info and encouragement! I am so ready to take care of this sweet truck/car/SUV/ vehicle.
Can't wait to see how she does with the Airstream!
@MasterX Wait, what? I'm getting the nonrusty one. I took all your advice to heart and appreciate it. Did I miss something or say something the wrong way? If so, I apologize...
I think i mis-understood you, when you were talking about rust being in a few spots, i took the understanding as you got the rusted one, if you took the clean one, dis-regard my statements in the prior post, sorry bud.
I think i mis-understood you, when you were talking about rust being in a few spots, i took the understanding as you got the rusted one, if you took the clean one, dis-regard my statements in the prior post, sorry bud.
That's even cleaner than mine when I got it... it will give you years of service, I can tell you working on a diesel costs ALOT more than a gas vehicle. My 6.0 holds 15qts of oil, and I only use Motorcraft filters, oh and run 5W40 synthetic, only changes cost me about $95 to do myself, and have to do it every 5k miles, vs my old gas vehicle that held 7 quarts and could go 8 to 10k between changes with Amsoil and cost me $60 to do. Parts and pieces are alot more costly, but these Diesels pull like a dream!
@MasterX Ahh, okay! @Theboneskes Yeah, I've heard diesel is more expensive, but I'm hoping there's a tradeoff for longevity and reliability. (I'm sure the EX gassers are great, too!) There's really nothing else out there that can really do what the EX does and I don't want our towing capacity to be too weak. With 4 mostly grown teenagers and a couple boxers and all the stuff everyone takes with them, we're not a small package. I know I'll feel better driving up and down that mountain to Asheville knowing there's enough power to control the the probably 10K behind us. Nice setup you've got! It looks brand new!
@MasterX Ahh, okay! @Theboneskes Yeah, I've heard diesel is more expensive, but I'm hoping there's a tradeoff for longevity and reliability. (I'm sure the EX gassers are great, too!) There's really nothing else out there that can really do what the EX does and I don't want our towing capacity to be too weak. With 4 mostly grown teenagers and a couple boxers and all the stuff everyone takes with them, we're not a small package. I know I'll feel better driving up and down that mountain to Asheville knowing there's enough power to control the the probably 10K behind us. Nice setup you've got! It looks brand new!
You guys are right. All about those photos!
It is a trade off, I put about 25k a year on my Excursion and it continues to motor on! I have 274k on the odometer, and does not feel "tired" at all. Dont see why it wont go 350 to 400k?
You will feel good about driving such a big SUV towing like a BEAST! Congrats to you and your husband, and kids of course. I also installed LED headlights in the factory lenses and in the fogs too, and they make a WORLD of difference if you are into doing it? I have these headlamps:
The color match between the two are spot on, are bright as can be at night, with the brights on I can see about 1/4 mile down the road, the sims are very impressive too with the fog lamps on. Just my $.02 and trying to help. They are 100% plug and play and dont cause any issues.
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