If this has been asked/answered; apologies. Having a heck of a time with a 1997 E-350 CLUB EB with 5.4 V8 and 4 wheel ABS. Bought this low mileage (68K) beauty at auction with the dash ABS light and Brake light on. on. Brakes were dragging bad unless I pulled the pedal back up with my foot. Visual inspection shows they may have been chasing this "Ghost" too (new front brakes, new flexible brake lines). Problem ABS light on, Van pulls to right (noticeably) when braking (but not when driving). I changed the brake booster (and was careful to measure rod/mstr brake cyl clearance), which eliminated the severe brake drag and the brake light on dash, but they still seem to drag a little. I've found the two-pin brake test harness (next to OBD II port under dash. 1) Can a 1997 4wabs system be bled automatically with the right scan tool? 2) Is there a DIY tool to get the brake codes from the 2-pin connector (I'm aware that RABS can have orange/black wire grounded for codes, but I don't know how 4WABS works). 3) Pulled codes from OBD II connector and came up with no faults. Does the 2-pin connector get codes that the OBDII connector doesn't? I'd love to pull the 2-pin codes before I start digging into it. Located in South Orange County if anyone is going to refer me anywhere (already been to "hell" and "GFY"). Thanks in advance.

 

Retrieve and share the specific DTC's you're getting relating to the ABS malfunction. Your '97 E-Series should be 100% compatible with any OBD-II scanner---if you're unable to retrieve codes through the DLC check the fuses for the cigar lighter and Power Point circuits.

You might have a problem with either the control module or valve block for the ABS. In order to do a "service bleed" which incorporates the ABS valve block you do need a scanner with that function. Typically those are stand alone tools and not part of hand held diagnostic tools.

 

Thanks. To clarify,

1. I used the OBD II Code reader from Auto Zone and it didn't show any codes (I don't fully trust Auto Zone).
2. Just drove it to get fuel (I don't drive it much). As stated, it pulls right on braking, but it also "drifts" right while driving. (Starting to think sticky caliper, but I think too much sometimes).
3. The cruise control works. I thought cruise doesn't work when ABS light is on. Could it be that ABS light was never reset and I have a sticking caliper?
4. Supposed to get electronic brake bleed tomorrow, but having second thoughts with this new info I've posted.

 

Easy enough to check the caliper, but you need to stop as soon as possible after a drive to see if that wheel sticks.

One characteristic I noticed when my caliper started to stick was the pulling to that side, but a minor correction would occur at the steering wheel as I start to apply the brakes.

But in my car, when the ABS came on, cruise control definitely would not work. Nor would the AWD. Nor would the locking torque converter.

 

I used my infrared sensor on the front rotors and rear drums after driving it. The driver side front and rear brakes are both 35% cooler than the passenger side front and rear. brakes. If it were just the front left that was cooler it would point me to the caliper. as the culprit, But with the driver's side front(disc) and rear (drum) both cooler, I'm thinking the ABS pump or ABS electronics.

 

^^^^ I would agree! Has the "service bleed" operation been performed yet?

 

Not yet. The master cylinder plastic was discolored and I discovered that the fluid is black. Pulled it and little bits of "sludge" poured out of it. Replacing it tomorrow and doing a manual flush/bleed and then I'll get the service bleed.

 

New master cylinder and a lot of fluid to flush the system. The result was brakes that really hang up and stay engaged and a pedal that won't return to resting position. Took it to the local wheel and axle guy and he just called and said the ABS pump is no good. Luckily being in So Cal there's a reputable company that rebuilds them not too far away, since they are not readily available. This weekend I guess I will be taking it apart. That or, I'll be trading it in on a Sprinter van. I may change my mind, but having been through several bad Ford experiences (2006 Ford F-250 with 6.0 diesel, a 1994 E-250 with leaking capacitors that wouldn't show codes, and now this, I'm thinking of selling every Ford I have (5) and keeping only the '95 Bronco

 

Codes were C1096 and C1095. Internet info is vague.. ABS Brake in Orange, CA is going to rebuild both pump and controller for $650.00.

 

Pump and module rebuilt for $700 and I reinstalled them. I still need to bleed the system again but I started the van and the ABS light is not on. Hope to bleed brakes this weekend.

 

Reinstalled ABS pump and module. Bled system per the ABS rebuild tech's instructions and the brake pedal still stays down when the brakes are applied. I have to pull the brake pedal back up with my toe under the pedal to release the brakes. Took it to a shop. They test drove it and they think something contaminated the brake fluid and has wrecked the rubber components of the system. So here I am again in Ford limbo. Mechanic wants $1000 to fix it, and recommended that I do it myself. I'm already in it for about $900 plus a lot of time. In the meantime, it's back at home sitting on the driveway, At least I'm not ticked off anymore, I've reached apathy.

 

I don't mean to offend you but it seems the bigger problem is you've simply not paid attention to advice already given. Add in you're doing some of this work yourself without much knowledge or experience in working with ABS brake systems. As painful as it is perhaps its time to consider taking it to a competent mechanic who would be willing to carefully diagnose the current problems, suggest a fix he can/would do or offer you specific instructions how to DIY.

Continuing to throw parts at something when its not known they're causing the issue is far, far expensive than having an experienced shop look and giving a diagnosis.

As for the ABS DTC's C1095 & C1096 they're fairly specific saying there's an issue with the ABS motor---whether that's due the motor itself having problems OR the wiring from the PCM is where an experienced mechanic would be most valuable.

 

There is no offense taken. I actually did pay attention to the advice you gave as well as well as advice from others. By fixing the ABS module the ABS light is now out, so that was not a waste of money. I took the van to a brake an axle shop that was recommended, and guess what? There aren't any codes, everything I've done is in the process of deduction is what they would have done (booster and master cylinder), and the bottom line is they aren't sure what the problem is so the next logical thing to do is to continue down the path of looking at the "next most logical problem". So actually, what you see as "offending" is really just my displeasure at "mystery Ford issues" (that I've had more than my fair share of, and was what my previous rant on Ford products was about, especially since the brake shop came to the same conclusion: Confusion. At least what I learned, showed that I was on the right track, and I'm probably on the right track with this brake issue too. The brake shop's advice: "You obliviously know what you're doing, so you can pay us a lot of money to do the guess work, or you can do it, since we're at the point of using educated guesses, and changing out rubber brake components that may be causing restrictions in the brake lines". It sucks that I have to be the "pioneer", but after I solve it, it may save someone else the hassle.

 

So have the flexible brake lines been checked or replaced with factory parts? Since you have some of the same problems and those are all that remain to be checked/replaced they would seem to be the next logical step.

When I was doing a brake upgrade on my 2003 E250 to 2008 components I first bought a set of Dorman rubber hoses up front---very pathetic and anemic looking. When the new Ford lines arrived I could see why they were $75 each compared to the Dorman $26 each. Not sure the Ford parts will last any longer but when it comes to brake parts I'm NOT concerned with cost.

Anyway hope this gets resolved---you've been down quite a path and deserve a break, pardon the (attempted) pun!

 

Once when I was bleeding an old brake system, one of the flex lines jammed up during the process. It locked the pedal from going down. I was fortunate that it did not happen while driving. But thinking about this, while it's a good idea to replace old flex lines, I'm not sure how a separating flex line can cause the pedal to not return. Generally, the pedal would draw fluid from its reservoir on the return stroke, and should not be affected by anything blocking the lines downstream.

Maybe it's time to do some drastic tests. Can you disconnect the hard lines from the MC and try pushing the pedal to see if it returns?