Is there a source for these? Or is it OK to use a Halogen Bulb in a '72 F-250?

 

The original single headlamp seal beam was industry number 6012. Was used on 12V cars and trucks.

6014 is the industry number for a single headlamp Halogen seal beam.

 

I think you used to be able to find the stock replacements in the local parts store just up to a few years ago. Now you'll probably be lucky to find them in stock, because almost everyone wants a brighter, whiter halogen to replace the old ones.
However I'm pretty sure they are still reproduced and available from the specialty sources. Then there are the halogen replacements designed to look more like the originals. Like these we carry: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...nco-headlights

To answer your other question, yes it's perfectly normal to replace the old incandescent lamps with halogen. After a certain point they carry the same wattage ratings and use the same 3-prong plugs. Older stock ones were something like 45 watts, but newer ones (don't remember when the changes came) were 55w low and 65w high, just like any modern street-legal halogen replacement. So in theory there is no change in the load on the wiring system.

But that's the real kicker anyway. It's just what the condition is of the existing wiring and headlight switch. Those make the biggest difference in reliability and benefit in my experience. With deteriorating wires and connections, you don't get the full benefit of the new brighter lights. If it's bad enough the new lamps might be just enough to start tripping the circuit breaker in the modern headlight switches. I think those changed in the very early sixties though, so your truck should have the circuit-breaker protecting that circuit.
The two ways of curing this issue are improving/replacing any sections of wiring in poor condition, and getting a new headlight switch. Which is a crapshoot these days, what with the crappy quality of new parts.

The true cure for both the poor wiring and taking full advantage of the potentially brighter lights though, is to add relays to your headlight circuit. This not only reduces the load on the switches and other components, but makes sure that you get full system voltage to the lights to begin with. Win wind for sure.
You can roll 'yer own so to speak, or buy a relay kit for this from the vendors. We sell this one: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...nco-headlights that's designed originally for the Early Broncos but several people have used them on their full-size with good results.
The wiring lengths were actually too long for the Bronco to begin with, which is probably why they're still ok to use on the larger (wider) trucks.
They plug right in to the headlights, then the old wiring triggers the new relays which transfer power directly from the battery to the lamps.

I've done it on all my older vehicles and love it.

Good luck.

Paul

 

If you don't mind a non original look, there are 7" H3 style housings and what is cool about H3 is it is the same wiring as 6012/6014/ turn signal flashers. This allows a replaceable brighter H3 bulb to be used.

 

You have to watch on some of the H3 light housing as they may not be DOT legal and can blind on coming traffic.
They also pull a lot more amps and can over load the lighting system.

I run the sealed beam halogen replacements designed to look more like the out put better than my 02 Durango.
Dave ----

 

your right, it would be 15 watts over stock since a basic H3 is 55w and a 6014 is 40w. Relays would be needed.

I have a JDM Suzuki Jimny with 7" H3 bulb housings from the factory ( Actually marked DOT legal ). It's kind of funny because the very close cousin, the USDM Samurai got sealed beams all the way till 1995 when they cancelled it for the USA market. The housings are nice but getting those exact housings into the USA would be a couple hundred each

I don't mind sealed beams though and I've even run the 6v candles in an old Plymouth I had

 

Are you guys talking about H4's by any chance? The H4 is a direct replacement for our round, or rectangular ights with identical 3-prong configuration, while the traditional H3 I'm familiar with is a single filament (no high/low) bulb with single pin connector (ground through the base) and completely different characteristics.
But they are available in as low as 55w models to keep within the legal fog lamp ratings.

Or did they change the designations on some of these older bulbs and I was not aware of it? Kind of like H4's being the exact same thing as one of the modern HB models?

Paul

 

nope, your right. H4/ 9003. H3 is a fog light bulb. My mistake

 

Scott Drake offers a Ford script repro of the 6014, except they are halogen instead of the old tungsten. I've used halogen lamps in my '64 for years. Generator system.

Pencil out the current draw of halogen lamps, it isn't excessive for older wiring, but the problem is, they won't be any brighter either if there is excessive voltage drop due to corroded grounds and cables.

And there will be, this is always a problem in old cars and trucks unless someone takes the time to clean everything up. Light output from any bulb drops off a cliff in a hurry with just a very slight drop in voltage.

 

Whew! Glad to know I didn't miss another change memo. Thanks!
And thanks for the 9003 info as well. I was thinking the H4 was the same as one of the HB numbers (like HB7 for example) but knew that didn't sound right when I said it. So it's the 9003 that's the same thing but with a different designation.
My 2000 Nissan Maxima had H4 (or 9003) lights from the factory so all of my cool upgrades from when I was the PIAA rep in the area were able to work well. I now know that many cars have that style, but at the time I thought H4's were aftermarket only.

My favorites so far for our 7" round replacements are the Hella and Cibié (Valéo) H4 lamps.
For the bulbs, even though I like the whiter whites (but not the blues) I usually stick with my standard Hella halogen 55/100 bulbs because at 55w I'm legal, and at 100w on high it's like having a pair of driving lights on the front bumper!
I have a set of old Italian Carrello rectangular lamps on my '79 and those were great too. Unfortunately they're fading out along the bottom of the reflector (after only 25 years too, those pieces of crap!) so I'm hoping the Hella brand are still good quality.
Lately I have not been as impressed with the consistency of the 7" round Hella lights and keep going back to my original set in my driver Bronco. The new ones get sent back because the beam pattern sucks. While the old ones from the '90's are still showing a super clean beam pattern.
Hopefully they can last a few more years.

Paul

 

I'll second the Hella conversions. I'm running what are referred to as Hella E-code housings in my F-100. They are ECE approved, not DOT approved so might be an issue if anyone ever looks close enough. IIRC when I was researching upgrades to the H4 housings, what I liked about these was that they actually diffuse off the reflector rather than the lens. They do have some diffusion built into the lens which helps them look right on an old vehicle, but most of it is diffused on the reflector which seems to work better.

Right now I've got some cheap LED bulbs installed and they work well, even though I don't care for the cool white color. I didn't want to overload the old factory headlight switch with more powerful Halogen bulbs. Had bought LED bulbs on an Amazon deal to try in my Ranger and Kia, didn't like them in the Ranger, so never installed in the Kia and the ones for it happened to be H4. I've got a relay harness around here somewhere for the truck, I'll be installing it with a good set of Halogen bulbs someday soon-ish.

 

I run a pair of Hella E-Code 7" in my F250 with a headlight wiring harness that supplies full 12 volts to the bulbs. I use 60/55 bulbs and it works great & looks close to OEM style.