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2017 6.2 Battery Issues

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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 12:42 PM
  #1  
Khawbaker's Avatar
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2017 6.2 Battery Issues

Hey guys, so back with another lovely issue with my truck. I wanna rule this out of being normal before I dig into this... My battery is from 10/19, and switched from the original to this one... I did have to clean a decent amount of corrosion off the terminals when I switched batteries... But now yesterday I hopped in the truck and it just clicked... wouldnt start with a jump off the ole ranger... but I noticed my air filter cover is covered in corrosion stains, the batter "brace" that hold it in is covered in corrosion, both terminals have about an 1/8th inch full of corrosion... I took a small wire brush and a dremel with wire wheel and cleaned everything good... My questions is this common on these trucks? or is this something I need to track down a bad connection? Doesnt seem like something I should have to deal with, but wanted some input.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 01:35 PM
  #2  
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I've owned my 17 w/6.2 since April of 17. I'm still using the original battery and have little to no corrosion on the terminals. Not sure what is causing your issue, but it is not normal.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 02:08 PM
  #3  
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Mine is the same as JeepPuller.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 02:10 PM
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A common cause of corrosion is a poor seal where the lead terminals exit the plastic battery case. Hydrogen gas produced during charging will leak directly on the terminals & connectors, producing excess corrosion. I've experienced this issue on one other vehicle I owned and it didn't seemed to affect that particular battery's longevity, but I did clean the terminals and connectors every few months. Applying a light coat of grease, petroleum jelly, etc., to the terminals & connectors after cleaning and installation may help to reduce the rate of corrosion.

Could also be a charging system problem....i.e., overcharge or undercharge. With battery terminals and connectors cleaned up and in good contact, a voltmeter on the battery terminals should read about 13.5 volts with the engine running if the charging system is working okay. Anything less than 13 volts or more than 14 volts with the engine running may be a charging system problem.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 02:49 PM
  #5  
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Originally Posted by Nastyman
A common cause of corrosion is a poor seal where the lead terminals exit the plastic battery case. Hydrogen gas produced during charging will leak directly on the terminals & connectors, producing excess corrosion. I've experienced this issue on one other vehicle I owned and it didn't seemed to affect that particular battery's longevity, but I did clean the terminals and connectors every few months. Applying a light coat of grease, petroleum jelly, etc., to the terminals & connectors after cleaning and installation may help to reduce the rate of corrosion.

Could also be a charging system problem....i.e., overcharge or undercharge. With battery terminals and connectors cleaned up and in good contact, a voltmeter on the battery terminals should read about 13.5 volts with the engine running if the charging system is working okay. Anything less than 13 volts or more than 14 volts with the engine running may be a charging system problem.
I've seen normal charging voltage above 14 volts all the time. I agree with the post seal leaking, seems not all that uncommon. Forty years ago I used to see a battery dealer who came to the shop and had a box wrench on one post of one battery and a box wrench end slipped over the end of another battery and thats how he carried two batteries at a time. I always thought it stupid as batteries are very heavy and he was side loading the posts to where I thought they were capable of ripping out. Mechanics I've seen pull batteries straight up with the same method when they are in a tight spot. Not proposing you're battery went through this.
I have had some vehicles that the positive terminal would crud no matter, pretty red felt terminal washer under cable end, sprayed with anti crud paint, it made no difference. Some vehicles, clean as a whistle always
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 03:23 PM
  #6  
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Proper charging voltage for lead-acid batteries varies with temperature and is adjusted by the regulator. Somewhere around 13.5V is 'typical' at around 65F. At lower temps the voltage goes up - could be close to 16V. At higher temps the charge voltage should drop to around 13V or so. Of course that's average values - not taking into account all the spikes, sags and excursions that are constantly occurring. When I was involved in designing electronics for automotive systems we used to say that the electrical environment was plus or minus 300 Volts occasionally passing through 12 Volts. There is an SAE spec somewhere that defines that.

Agree with comments above about keeping terminals and connectors clean. If they corrode again in just a few months its time for a new battery.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 07:22 PM
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I've had 3 batteries changed. One dealership said it was normal venting of the batteries, and after reading a thread on this I went to another dealer who replaced both batteries and both hold downs. Then about 6 months later one of the new batteries started to corrode and they replaced it again. Both batteries are good to go now after almost a year. A lot of people had issues with the batteries leaking or gassing which caused corrosion.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 07:28 PM
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The fix is to dump the OEM battery before this happens. Northstar X2 or Odyssey AGM is my pick for replacement.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2020 | 08:06 PM
  #9  
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Thanks for the replies, when I changed the battery I thought it was bad... I just changed the oil the other day, flushed the coolant, and swapped grilles... didn’t even notice it, today it’s really bad but probably was just in the zone and didn’t notice it... guess I’ll start by cleaning everything good and getting a new battery since this one is under a 3 year warranty.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2020 | 07:11 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by BGMSPD
I've had 3 batteries changed. One dealership said it was normal venting of the batteries, and after reading a thread on this I went to another dealer who replaced both batteries and both hold downs. Then about 6 months later one of the new batteries started to corrode and they replaced it again. Both batteries are good to go now after almost a year. A lot of people had issues with the batteries leaking or gassing which caused corrosion.
At least you now know which dealership not to go to.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2020 | 07:21 AM
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Yup. The dealership that covered the battery replacement is the same dealership I just ordered my 21' F250 Tremor from. Service departments can cost their dealerships sales.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2020 | 03:13 PM
  #12  
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2020 6.7. One month old, both batteries were leaking around vent caps. Charging voltage measures around 14.5. Pulled and replaced both batteries with East Penn Sam's Club Duracell AGM's at $149ea on sale. Local dealer refused to replace batteries unless they were leaking. Reached out to FORD on Twitter and had a conversation with a rep. Didn't go anywhere. I had to repaint one hold down at one month and 6k miles. AGM batteries now, so no more leaks. I could have waited until everything was nasty and the truck would't start, but my luck they wouldn't cover the other stuff... I decided to spend the $300 now and not have to worry about it.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2020 | 04:54 PM
  #13  
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All three super duties I have owned have had corrosion on the tie down. This includes one diesel. I wire brush it, paint it, and use a piece of bicycle inner tube to isolate it. Always solves the issue.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2020 | 06:07 PM
  #14  
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My 2013 original batteries made it till December 2019. They didn’t fail they didn’t leak I replaced him out of caution. It’s not normal or typical for this type of corrosion to form.
 
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Old May 11, 2021 | 07:13 AM
  #15  
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So 8 months later...

I found the most massive buildup of corrosion on my positive terminal that I've ever seen. I mean it practically filled the red rubber cover!!!

I pulled everything apart, scraped and vacuumed off the bigger chunks, scrubbed everything with baking soda & water. Cleaned and repainted the hold-down bracket.

If it comes back I'm switching to an AGM battery.
 
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