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Hey y’all I’ve almost successfully finished my swap except now my engine is running poorly and dies at idle much like it would before the swap when the engine would run and die at idle after being warmed up.(unless I depress the accelerator)
I think the carb may need to be tuned because I was messing with it a lot. Also the old ECC-IV computer is still plugged in although all the lines are disconnected. Would removing this work? Also my coil is sitting loose and the only connectors hooked up a re the distributor harness and wires, the DS ECM, and the 3 plugs coming from the drivers side firewall. Any suggestions will be good but I’m grateful that she at least a starts.
Also I have an aftermarket single barrel carter carb I may use or return if I wish.
Don't be afraid to mess with the carb. If it's aftermarket, you should be able to turn the idle mixture screw and it should also have a idle stop screw to set the minimum idle speed. Have you set the timing with a timing light yet?
No I haven’t tried the light though I have one and will try that. The current carb is the feedback carburetor disconnected from every sensor. I’m also concerned that the oil pump has a plug on it which is connected to the old harness.
Oil pump is inside the oil pan. Do you mean a pressure sensor? I am not sure where it is on a six.
If you still have the feedback carb, it may or may not have the idle mixture screw uncovered. If the carb was ever rebuilt before, it will be uncovered so you can turn it.
Now that the computer is not being used, the original idle control is no longer working. So you need to look it over and find the idle stop screw. On my 2150 computer controlled carb, it had the computer idle control motor, and it also had a another idle stop screw on it. So I took the idle motor off, and just use the other screw. It probably needs adjusting now that the motor is not working on the idle control.
The above picture shows that small can screwed into the side of the block. That small can is your oil pressure gauge sending unit. All it does it make the gauge in the dash work and read "normal" whatever normal is.
Do you have a factory tach in the dash?
The DS 2 harness you are using is from a early 1980's V8. It has the ground for the V8 tach, which will make it read incorrectly for a six cylinder engine.
Jim
Wow good call I did pull that from a v8. Will it work for the time being until I find one from a I6? My tach wasn’t working before hand so I’m not too concerned about this though it would be great to fix. Thanks.
Also may I use my old coil from my TFi or is it better to use the one that already fits. I’m having trouble rigging the new coil with enough space so that it doesn’t overheat. It also has this little tube attached to the side of it which looks like it was used on the V8 but I’m unsure if it’s necessary one the i6.
Wow good call I did pull that from a v8. Will it work for the time being until I find one from a I6? My tach wasn’t working before hand so I’m not too concerned about this though it would be great to fix. Thanks.
Yes it will work.
Looking at the first photo in post 1, the round plug in the middle is for the Tach. It has a green wire and a black wire that loop back around to the DS2 plug with 6 total wires going into the plug. The green wire is the Tach feed. The black wire needs to be cut near the center of the loop. Tape off the loose ends.
It also looks like the green wire has some bare wire showing near the center of the loop, this should be taped also.
On a side note, the water temp sender wire runs around the back side of engine, just below the valve cover.
On a V8 DS2 harness you might have to lengthen water temp wire as it might be to short to reach the sender on the passenger side of the engine.
Also may I use my old coil from my TFi or is it better to use the one that already fits. I’m having trouble rigging the new coil with enough space so that it doesn’t overheat. It also has this little tube attached to the side of it which looks like it was used on the V8 but I’m unsure if it’s necessary one the i6.
I personally recommend using the original stock round coil with a DS 2 ignition module. The original design was for the resistance wire ohms to equal the coil primary ohms, which causes a equal split. The newer square TFI coil has a lower resistance which causes higher current flow. Higher current flow causes more internal heat in the ignition module, which it than has to dissipate. If it is able to dissipate the extra heat, all is well. But it it doesn't then it could fail.
You should take some voltage measurement to help you decide. Put it all together, get it running with the round coil. Then with key ON, engine not running, measure the voltage at the coil positive. Retest with the square TFI coil. Report back with your voltage readings.
Also may I use my old coil from my TFi or is it better to use the one that already fits. I’m having trouble rigging the new coil with enough space so that it doesn’t overheat. It also has this little tube attached to the side of it which looks like it was used on the V8 but I’m unsure if it’s necessary one the i6.
The TFI coil is fine with the DSII modules but you have to run the TFI coil through the ballast resistor like you would an iron bar coil.and supply it the standard 8V.
Ford updated the modules in the early 80's (component upgrades) and the modules were upgraded to handle TFI coils as the plan was to drop all the iron bar coils in favour of TFI coils across the board, Power Products put up a fuss about it so it never came to pass but the upgrades we made stood. I have been running TFI coils with the DS II system on a couple of vehicles for 35 years now on the same modules.
In short, you can use your TFI coil with the DS II modules with no issues as long as you are supplying it 8V, it will provide a hotter spark and has the benefit of less stress on the module in terms of back EMF.
The module will not be able able to drive the TFI on 12V without impacting the life span of the module so make sure that the TFI coil is fed through the ballast resistor.
Here’s the old resistor for the tfi ignitions and what I think is the resistor for the duraspark on a V8 cool I pulled May I possibly reuse this one or both if I swap back to use my tfi coil?
In the first pic with the bar coil (the cylindrical one) that is not a resistor on the side of it but a capacitor (aka condenser) used for radio noise suppression.
The TFI system does not use a resistor in it's power circuit. That resistor sown in the second pic is for the tach feed to the ECU. The ballast resistor for the coil is a resistor wire in the harness actual..
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