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First let me think everyone for the response on my thread about the engine not running properly and what to look for. Also which valves are located nearer the spark Plug hole.
Number 3 cylinder has no compression. The valve I can see is the exhaust but it is moving up and down. It is not popping back through the carb so it seems to me it is the exhaust valve that is loosing compression. I am wondering if it could be that the valve seat has come loose and is cocked causing the valve not to seat properly. The truck has adjustable lifters and since it is a recent build that the valve is not adjusted properly and is holding open.
This brings me to additional questions.
Since I have to pull the head and intake to fix either problem, should I pull the intake first and check the valve clearance and if it is ok, pull the head second. As someone said earlier the valve is probably stuck and u can put MMO in the cylinder and tap the valve to loosen it but since it is moving, seems like something else.
i want to order gaskets ahead of time. I think that the passenger side is the right side. Someone please confirm.
This block has been bored either 40 or 60 thousands. Do i need a big bore head gasket or a regular gasket and should I get the more expensive Copper gasket?
In your other thread you said #1 had -0- compression, are there two of them?
Definitely pull the intake first to check the clearance. Usually if a lifter changes setting it makes the clearance greater, tho. If the valve is not seating it is probably because the guide has a burr or is just too tight, a common problem with recent repro guides. Working the valve up and down may help, but you may need to pull the head to get the guide out for reaming.
For gaskets, FelPro has worked well for me, and O'Reilly's sells a set very reasonably (have to order but gets to the store in a day or two). You can buy an entire engine set for little more than the price of two individual gaskets. Right = PS, Left = DS. https://www.oreillyauto.com/search/1...d/f1?q=fs7525b
You don't need O/S gaskets until you get above +0.080" bore or so. I'd stay away from the steel or copper-faced gaskets, they are less forgiving of surface prep.
Since it is a rebuilt engine, I would contact the rebuilder for advice and not do any DIY repairs that could void the rebuilders warranty and let the rebuilder deal with what ever corrective work needs to be done, including gaskets.
It's #3. I am going to remove the intake first and see what the lifter adjustmsnt looks like. Are there any different settings with the adjustable lifters?
The valve clearances are the same for an adjustable lifter, unless you have an aftermarket/performance cam. Pull the intake FIRST, you can then rotate the engine and see if all your valves are opening or closing. A friend with you would help. You can then check clearances. If any valves are stuck, try to free them 1st, before you tear the heads off. Composition gaskets, if you need them, are your best bet for your Flathead. Available in a Big Bore size from Speedway. As someone stated earlier, I have heard of some problems with bad/ cheesy, lifters. If you have lost clearances because the adjustables did not hold, it might be time to look into some quality lifters, and for that I cannot recommend any company in particular. Readers ????? Best of luck.
Red's Headers sells "good" lifters, some other small vendors. There is a shop on the east coast that checks each one for hardness on the face, which is the main problem (next to screws that don't hold). The owner goes by "GOSFAST" on the Ford Barn. I believe both Red's and others will sell individual lifters, too. Avoid Speedway's lifters.
Be aware that the Ford N series tractors use the same adjustable lifters. I don't know if the Tractor application demands less of them and therefore we see some lesser quality ones crossing over to the V8 automotive application where they just are not able to handle it.
Be aware that the Ford N series tractors use the same adjustable lifters. I don't know if the Tractor application demands less of them and therefore we see some lesser quality ones crossing over to the V8 automotive application where they just are not able to handle it.
The N tractors are supposed to be governed at about 2200 rpm are they not? That limited speed would be less stress on valve components There are many N series tractor parts that appear to be identical to automotive parts but are dimensionally different; exactly what I would expect coming from a corporate engineering department..
The N tractors are supposed to be governed at about 2200 rpm are they not? That limited speed would be less stress on valve components There are many N series tractor parts that appear to be identical to automotive parts but are dimensionally different; exactly what I would expect coming from a corporate engineering department..
In this case, it isn't that they "appear to be identical" - here is a parts supplier stating same application:
Flathead V8's never came from the factory with adjustable lifters. The original adjustable lifters for the V8's were Johnson Hollow lifters, still made today. The tractors use a much heavier, solid adjustable lifter, because as Ray says, they don't care about high RPM performance. You can use either type in V8's that are purely for the street. Both types are available from the successor to the original Johnson company, but there are as usual cheap offshore copies with sketchy hardness.
Well I found the trouble. I am attaching some pictures. The valve seat came out of the exhaust port on #3. Its beat it up pretty bad. Don't know if it will clean up and a new oversize seat can be installed that will stay. Found a guy in Mittleburg FL that has a portable machine that will allow me to leave the motor in the truck. The valve appears to be OK, not bent or pitted. I notice that this engine has all concave valves which indicate intake valves. Is this OK or did the rebuilder use the wrong valves?
I am no expert but it does appear that whoever worked on that valve seat had a difficult time keeping it in place...lots of peening and it still came loose.
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