This started last week when i was sick on my son's 95. He left the house and called quickly thereafter (less than 1/4 mile) with the truck is running bad and skipping. He came back and i told him to check oil. 2 gallons later and it was running fine.

We have had it 50 k miles now for total of 265k on the truck. The only history i know on it is what we have done to it since we have had it and supposedly it had a new clutch in it before we got it.

I had all the leaks fixed but there is one towards the back of the valley now. It used 3 gallons of oil since Sunday. When i came back in from work tonight, i started cleaning it up and looking it over and have not seen the smoking gun yet. No extra oil out turbo to intake. Exhaust dry. turbo itself looks dry. EbP rod is crusty and will require a little more cleaning to check tomorrow. When we bought the truck, the EBP solenoid on the turbo pedestal was unplugged. I plugged it back up probably 2 yrs ago. I have never heard the EBPV work like it does on my 2000. Tonight i unplugged it again. He said other than the little bit of oil in the valley, he has noticed on the starter but i figured that was the drain on the top of the engine valley leaking back. I pinched oring on fuel filter lid tonight so I had to stop looking at it until i get another fuel filter. I was checking for injector oring signs but it was not black. It was due anyway. We change it on the 3rd oil change which is due now. However, the oil in the truck is clean (like brand new from the jug looking) from all its usage. I am seriously considering changing the filter and filling it back up.

With oil in the valley, its external obviously. I am wondering if maybe the EBP kicked in and it leaked when it was energized and stopped when it deenergized. This has only started since it cooled off to the 50-70 degree range in the mornings when he leaves for tech school.

I searched EBP and found a really good thread for oil leaks that was a link to an older thread from a few years ago. IS there anything else anyone can suggest that i may have be overlooking? There is no additional blowby or psi at the oil fill cap.

 

The best way to diagnose leaks is with tracer dye.

Tracer dye is how Ford recommends diagnosis, and is how professional service departments generally proceed.

Dealerships and career technicians usually have a fancy (expensive) light to read the dye, but that is only needed because they keep working hours during the day, and thus are competing with sunlight and shop lights.

At home, and at night, a simple blacklight bulb in an Edison screw drop light is good enough to easily see the fluorescent dye trace streaming from the EXACT spot where the leak is effusing from, with pin point accuracy, resulting in a confidently CERTAIN diagnosis.

I use diesel engine oil compatible dye from Tracerline.

 

Does it glow the same color as ac dye under the light? I am one of the lucky souls that cannot see that color if it does.

 

 

Clean engine. Degreaser and pressure washer. Use the car wash if you have to for initial de-gunking. You can use hose at home, then blow dry with compressed air or leaf blower.

Look for oil/wet spot after a short drive. Use a mirror and bright light to look at EBPV actuator, turbo o-rings, HPOP lines, rear plug, non-serviceable plug, etc. Youll find the leak.

If you can see the leak with dye on a filthy engine, you’d be able to find it easier on a clean engine and no dye.

 

Do not know the full configuration of the '95.
I have had some oil/fuel mix in my 'valley' for several years and it was hard to trace down. Not a lot of each to influence the running of the truck but always 'there' no matter how much cleaning and looking I did. Two times over the last several years the oil level (quickly) went down and closed off the injector ports and the truck came to a slow stop...???? Where did it go and where did it 'come from'???? truck always seemed to run 'fine'. Eight qts low.... Eight qts low!!!!! Geeze that oil went out fast somewhere somehow.... After filling the oil back to 15qts all was 'fine'....
I 'found' the fuel leak to the valley by putting new O-rings on the water/fuel drain. Fuel was slowly dribbling from the rubber hose as it did not have a good seal down the back of the fuel bowl and into the valley and not down the metal tube that drain under the engine. No more 'fuel' in the valley, just an oil leak coming from 'somewhere'.
I thought that the ipr was leaking. Cleaned and cleaned, took the tin nut off and cleaned some more. No leak around 'there', but the HPOP was 'wet' around the connections. Bingo... O-rings at/in the connections seemed to have contracted and allow a little leak, but when warmed up would close up and seal (I think). I had nothing to lose but time and learn more about my baby. Ordered over haul O-rings for the HPOP connections from Bob https://www.dieselorings.com/1999-20...-oil-pump.html and overhauled the connections.
Not the 'easiest' in my mind to overhaul the connects but take your time and read and reread the directions and it can be done. Reinstalled HPOP connections and cleaned the valley up. No more oil in the valley for many months, so I stopped worrying about 6-8 qts of oil going 'somewhere' very quickly (for now).

Hoped this helped, if not, disregard.

 

I found the issue and got it slowed. My problems were two fold.

Thank you for the suggestions. I wished i could see the dye. Have never been able to see that color. I have to use nitrogen to pressurize ac systems for the same reason.

The 95 is really close to the 99 up. No intercooler and the fuel bowl is in the middle of the valley instead of right up against the hpop reservoir. There are differences in the turbo size etc but layout wise, its really similar. One thing it has that i like better than my 2000 is that the hpop lines are JIC fittings instead of the snap to connect. I always ask here because you are my people. lol.

As i said, it turned out i had two issues. On the valley leak, i thought i had pinched the fuel filter oring. I got another motorcraft yesterday and put in it to find that was not it. One of the lines from the fuel filter housing to the head behind the ac compressor must have had an intermittent drip. Until i touched it and it spit wide open. Had a new line made and got it installed. That is pain in the butt connection to get to behind the ac compressor. I managed to whack the icp sensor with the wrench and tear it off. Luckily, the local dealer had one and matched riffraff's price. I washed everything up and started looking for the oil leak. After multiple drives, it is still clean and dry up there.

I energized the EBP with test leads to make it extend to see if it was the leak and also to add a little more back psi into the engine. That was not it but boy did it tell me where the leak was. My waterfall of oil is from the dipstick adapter flange. The nut was completely off. I reinstalled it and it just barely leaks now.

It looks like this is in my future.
https://www.riffraffdiesel.com/dipst...it-7-3l-94-03/

Thanks again for all the help

 

Did the fuel line split from corrosion? Or from abrasion? If abrasion, was it at or near any type of clamp or bracket holding the line?

 

I would say it split from old age. It had a little split in a bend and then busted wide open when i moved it. It is an aeroquip line. There was nothing to rub on there.